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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

6385 messages,  Last post on May 05, 2013 at 7:47 AM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer

    

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Messages Page 358 of 640

#3562 of 6385 demus by jrc346

Apr 13, 2005 (12:59 pm)

First, I'll say this. Please be careful in how you state things, they come across as being somewhat insulting ( I am speaking only towards comments made towards me ).
Like these...
"you probably know this since you have had 3 Explorers already."
I am not implying that I "know" anything because I have had owned 3 Explorers. I am merely stating that I have experience with them because I have owned more than one.
 
Now for my rebuttals:
Ford's warranty is 3 years/36,000 miles or whichever comes first. My 1979 F-150 however, only came with a 1 year/12,000 mile factory warranty. I am sure there is a proportionate measure in kilometers for Canadians. Like I mentioned in my previous post to you, you wouldn't have benefited from Ford having a longer warranty anyway, your mileage (kilometerage?) is to high.
 
I don't know who services your transmission or who is rebuilding it now, but the 95 ALD4 a 4-speed auto, is not the same transmission used in 2000 Explorers. In 1997, Ford switched over to the 4R70W for the V8 and the 5R55E (5-speed auto) for the 4.0L SOHC V6. Since 2002, all Explorers have the 5R55E. The only problem that I have seen with them is failure of a clutch solenoid. This is being replaced by Ford, at their cost, in most cases.
Another note. Your 2000 Explorer already has a transmission cooler from the factory.
 
As far as warranties go
Honda offers 3years/36,000 miles bumper-to-bumper, same as Ford
Kia/Hundai offers 5years/60,000 miles bumper-to-bumper
 
If you were happy with the 4-Runner, maybe you should cut your losses with the Explorer and get another one of those?

#3563 of 6385 Re: brakes on 1998 explorer [greaper] by greaper

Apr 13, 2005 (11:46 pm)

Replying to: greaper (Apr 10, 2005 6:46 am)
Talked to a friend of mine who said he had the same problem after changing his rotors. said it the ABS speed sensors on the backof new the rotor was not pressed in correctly by the rotor manufacturer. I disconected the ABS sensors and test drove it. No ABS but the problem was gone and of course the ABS light stayed lit. Not looking foreward to changing out the rotors again.

#3564 of 6385 Re: brakes on 1998 explorer [greaper] by bioman

Apr 14, 2005 (4:28 am)

But you are going to remove the defective rotors and return them to the place of purchase?? If you are sure it is the rotor and not the installation that is what I would do. Just M2C.

#3565 of 6385 Re: brakes on 1998 explorer [bioman] by greaper

Apr 14, 2005 (9:11 am)

Replying to: bioman (Apr 14, 2005 4:28 am)
yes, just hate having to do a job twice for no good reason. still troubled about my other problem, the hesitation when putting a light load on the car. seems to be getting worse. checked my plugs and wires, no problem there. still think it is a trans/converter problem.

#3566 of 6385 Re: Possible Front Driveline Problem [bioman] by dtownfb

Apr 14, 2005 (10:29 am)

Replying to: bioman (Apr 11, 2005 4:44 pm)
Dayton Timberline HT. Put them on my Explorer at 125k miles. I had the same cupping problem with my Wrangler RT/S. They always cupped in pairs forcing me to buy 2 at a time and too cheap to replace all 2 perfectly good tires.
 
You should be able to get them for about $70 - $75 per tire installed. I got mine for cheaper than that. Good overall tire with a 50k warranty.

#3567 of 6385 Re: 2002 Explorer excellerates when braking [jim34] by rr122

Apr 15, 2005 (12:01 pm)

Replying to: jim34 (Feb 27, 2005 4:58 pm)
I have exactly the same problem. Did you ever find out what caused it? My mechanic has suggested that the brake booster check valve may be at fault. The acceleration problem does not happen all of the time.

#3568 of 6385 Transmission Fluid in the Intake Manifold by krmitch1

Apr 15, 2005 (10:34 pm)

My 94 Ford Explorer 4x4 started having transmission problems in that it wouldn't shift when first started, usually forward. Adding transmission fluid fixes the problem for a while but there is no visible leak. Now the engine is idling very rough and I get a Check Engine Light with a code 332 "insufficient EGR flow". Upon pulling the throttle body and checking inside the intake manifold I found a pool of transmission fluid, which I assume is causing the rough idle and probably has carboned up the EGR system. It appears the fluid is possibly getting there through the vacuum system somehow. What would be causing this? Can a dirty and stopped up Transmission filter cause fluid to vacuum up into the intake? Not sure the transmission has been serviced in the last 50K. Also could a bad vacuum modulator be the culprit?

#3569 of 6385 Re: Possible Front Driveline Problem by bioman

Apr 16, 2005 (4:37 am)

ddtownfb- thanks for the info on the Dayton Timberline HT. I'll put them on my short list when I'm ready to replace my 4 Wrangler RT/S.
 
On another issue, what is the appropriate amount of time that is allotted for the replacement of lower ball joints on a 99 Explorer 4X4? When I had mine replaces I was charged 2.5 hours for labor for each side. New Ball joints were added to the old lower control arms.
 
RE: Transmission Fluid in Intake manifold. Many years ago I had a 62 Comet that had a bad vacuum modulator valve. The symptoms were very similar to what you are describing. When the diaphragm in the valve breaks, transmission fluid is sucked into the intake manifold. If your transmission has one I would check out the vacuum line going from the valve to the intake manifold. If it has transmission fluid in it, Bingo!

#3570 of 6385 Re: Transmission Fluid in the Intake Manifold [krmitch1] by wijoco

Apr 16, 2005 (3:25 pm)

Replying to: krmitch1 (Apr 15, 2005 10:34 pm)
Yes, it's the vac modulator. Go ahead and replace the vacuum line, too as the fluid will soften and collapse it.

#3571 of 6385 Re: bioman (ball joints) by idntnvu

Apr 16, 2005 (10:49 pm)

I have a '99 Explorer XLS and I had both upper and lower ball joints replaced at 50k miles. How much did you pay for your ball joint work? Did you replace both upper and lower or just one of them?

Messages Page 358 of 640

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