Last post on May 05, 2013 at 7:47 AM
You are in the Ford Explorer
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Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer
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Feb 06, 2003 (9:47 am)
It looks like there is a TSB on this problem. It says only to 2001 Explorers. However it sounds like you have the same problem. Here it is. The best of luck.
A/T - Slipping Shifts/Delayed Engagements/DTC's Set
TRANSMISSION - 4R44E - 4R55E - 5R44E - 5R55E -
LOW LINE PRESSURE READING AT WIDE OPEN
THROTTLE (WOT) - SLIPPING SHIFTS AND/OR
DELAYED ENGAGEMENTS - POSSIBLE DIAGNOSTIC
TROUBLE CODES P0732, P0733, P1762 SET -
VEHICLES BUILT BEFORE 12/1/2001
1999-2002 EXPLORER SPORT
2001-2002 EXPLORER SPORT TRAC
Article 02-8-2 is being republished in its entirety to update the DTC codes, build dates and to update the Service Procedure.
Some vehicles built prior to 12/1/2001 may exhibit the following shift and engagement conditions:
^ Low line pressure readings while in DRIVE at
^ No 2nd gear
^ No 3rd gear
^ No engine braking in Manual 1st
^ Slipping shifts and/or delayed engagements
^ DTCs P0732, P0733 or P1762 may be present
This may be caused by improper pressures controlled by the Transmission Main Control assembly.
If the conditions described are verified, the Main Control may need to be updated to the latest level or completely replaced. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
NOTE THIS ARTICLE DOES NOT APPLY TO ANY OTHER CONDITIONS OR COMPONENTS THAT MAY CAUSE SIMILAR SYMPTOMS AND IS ONLY WRITTEN TO COVER THESE SPECIFIC CONDITIONS.
NOTE AN IN-LINE SERVICE FILTER IS NOT REQUIRED TO BE ADDED OR REPLACED FOR THIS TSB.
Verify that one or more of the following conditions exist:
^ Low line pressure while in Drive at WOT
^ Slipping/delayed shifts
^ Slipping/delayed engagements
^ No 2nd and/or No 3rd gear
^ No engine braking in Manual 1st
^ OD Band failed OFF
^ DTC P0732, P0733 or P1762 set
1. Verify that one of the conditions listed above exist with the vehicle.
2. If the condition exists, drain the transmission fluid from the pan.
3. Remove the fluid pan and fluid pan gasket, discard the gasket. Refer to Workshop Manual, In-Vehicle Service, Fluid Pan And Gasket Procedure.
4. Inspect the fluid in pan for major contamination.
a. If major contamination IS present, refer to Procedure A, to replace the Main Control Assembly.
b. If major contamination is NOT present, refer to Procedure B, to Update the Main Control Assembly.
5. After completing procedure A or B, verify the condition has been corrected.
6. Clear all DTCs.
1. If major contamination is present, follow normal Workshop Manual procedures to repair internal transmission damage. If the transmission is repaired remember that the the Main Control (7A100), Fluid Pan Gasket (7A191) and Fluid Filter (7A098) must be replaced. Refer to the application chart for the correct Main Control assembly to use.
CAUTION A NEW SEPARATOR PLATE 7A008 OR 7Z490 MUST BE USED WHEN INSTALLING THE SPECIAL SERVICE KIT 7M203 OR ADDITIONAL TRANSMISSION DAMAGE MAY OCCUR.
1. To UPDATE the main control to the new level, follow the steps listed in the Service Kit 1L5Z-7M203-JA (ALL KIT CONTENTS MUST BE USED). A new separator plate (7A008 or 7Z490), upper/lower separator plate gaskets (7C155 and 7D100 used only with a 7A008 plate), fluid pan gasket (7A191), and a fluid filter (7A098) must be used. ALL NEW PARTS MUST BE USED. Refer to Parts Application Chart for parts selection.
2. Install the Special Service Tools 307-333 and 307-334 (1 each) onto the main control (Figure 1).
3. Install a new service Separator Plate (refer to chart), make sure that the new plate has hole # 50 deleted, install the three (3) screw and tighten to 7 N.m (62 Lb-in).
4. Install a new separator plate to case gasket (7C155) if installing the 7A008 style separator plate. DO NOT INSTALL a 7C155 GASKET IF USING A 7Z490 Separator Plate.
5. Remove the special service tools.
6. Continue to follow the assembly steps as found in the assembly of sub-assembled, main control valve body.
7. Reinstall the main control by continuing to follow the Installation steps listed in the Workshop Manual, In-Vehicle Service, Fluid Pan And Gasket Procedure.
LABOR OPERATION CLAIMING CHART
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: 02-83
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage
BASIC PART NO. CODE
OASIS CODES: 501000, 502000, 503000
#1785 of 6385 Explorer Transmissions
Feb 08, 2003 (8:08 pm)
I've posted on here many times for several years about the Explorer Automatic Transmissions.
In a nut shell, they are really bad in the V6 engine models. I know it's too late for you now, but the best advice I can give you is that if you buy another explorer, be sure you get one with the V8 Engine, because they come with a much better and stronger automatic transmission (4R70W), which is nearly the same as the AODE. If you have the V6 with Automatic, the BEST thing you can do to it now is take VERY GOOD care of it, service it every 30,000 miles with a complete fluid flush and change, new filter, new pan gasket. If it starts to act up, do this same service every YEAR. You should be able to get 150,000 miles out of the original transmission. I got 155,000 out of the original automatic tranny in my 1993 Explorer with the V6 4.0L OHV Pushrod engine. I Drove it very hard, but it was no accident, it was very well serviced, completely flushed at each service. I still drive it, and very hard at that. The Hard driving does not hurt it as much as the contamination that builds up inside the transmission. Once a Bearing or Bearing Race or Bushing or Thrust Washer starts to fail, it will continue to create metal particles that will contaminate and wear out everything else in the transmission and torque converter. That is why they are so expensive to repair, almost all the parts inside and the torque converter need to be replaced.
Best advice I can give:
1st Buy the right transmission, buy a V8 powered Explorer.
2nd Maintenance is Key, do complete & regular maintenance.
Feb 09, 2003 (6:45 am)
Hi all...my 2000 XLS will hit 30000 miles this week.
In the recent past, I had the tranny replaced (21000 miles), coolant system serviced and fuel/air filters changed (24000), oil change with Mobil 1 (26700), and tires rotated (28500 - odd interval, but had a tire leaking).
What will I be due for 30000? I was thinking the serpentine belt and power steering maintenance. Anything else?
Feb 09, 2003 (3:05 pm)
In *my* opinion, every 30,00 miles: 1) spark plugs (controversial, but it's what I've done); 2) PCV valve; 3) coolant flush and tranny fluid change(sounds like you've done this); 4) fuel filter change; 5) Chevron Techron fuel additive every 3000 miles (my preference); 6) power steering fluid flush and change; 7) steering, suspension and brake inspections every 6 months after the first 30,000 miles; 8) Zaino Bros. car polish system when vehicle is first purchased, then every 6 months there after; 9) remove winter wiper blades in the Spring. (Some of my ideas come from the guys at NPR's "Car Talk" radio show and web site).
#1789 of 6385 you should be checking the serpentine belt regularly
Feb 09, 2003 (8:28 pm)
for chunking or a number of cracks that cross more than a couple ribs, or any kind of longitudinal defects, but until you see issues like that, the belt should be good to run. by around 40 to 50,000 miles it's almost inevitable that you'll start to see a little damage accumulate to the belt.
it would be a good idea to replace the brake and PS fluids to prevent suspended stuff from causing damage... water and micro-rust in the case of brake fluid, which absorbs water from the air... minor seal shedding, floating metal dust, etc. in the PS system. but unless you see a major color difference from new fluids in a drip test or by shining a light through 'em, it isn't mandated.
but so far, you're right on track with the exception of the premature tranny failure.
#1790 of 6385 Explorer transmissions
Feb 11, 2003 (5:31 am)
The 2002 and 2003 Explorers all have the 5R55W transmission in them. I had trouble with mine when new; it shifted roughly like many did, but the TSB did not help mine. They took it out and replaced the valve body; that didn't help. Then it started to fail to engage reverse or drive from PARK; it would take about five seconds then SLAM into gear. They replaced the trans completely at about 6K miles with a new one pulled from the assembly line in Louisville. Since then it has had the software updated once and is fine now.
Feb 11, 2003 (4:36 pm)
Ford service shops should routinely inspect the serpentine belt during every so-called "multi-point inspection", which they are supposed to perform even during routine oil changes. In addition, the service invoice should document that the multipoint inspection was performed, and what, if anything, was found to be of concern, and that the owner was duly informed as to any needed repairs. It's also worth reminding ourselves of just how important it is (for a variety of reasons) to keep a meticulous file of all service encounters, complaints, and records.
#1793 of 6385 it is also a good thing if you can back up the multipoint inspection
Feb 11, 2003 (5:45 pm)
by looking the car over yourself periodically. not saying that the dealer makes mistakes, only humans do that...