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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair
6385 messages, Last post on May 05, 2013 at 7:47 AM
You are in the Ford Explorer Forum.What is this discussion about? Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer
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#1565 of 6385 by steve_ HOST
Sep 05, 2002 (3:46 pm)
I found two using The Edmunds Maintenance Guide. Alldata.com may have more or different ones, or different numbers:
Component Description:
118.ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM:THERMOSTAT NHTSA Number: 617968
Bulletin Number: 14583
Bulletin Date: JAN 2001
Vehicle: 2000 Ford Explorer
Summary:
CONCERNS WITH BROKEN THERMOSTATS ON ENGINES. *JB
Component Description:
121.ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM:THERMOSTAT NHTSA Number: 617995
Bulletin Number: 14617
Bulletin Date: JAN 2001
Vehicle: 2000 Ford Explorer
Summary:
SUBJECT PERTAINING TO BROKEN THERMOSTAT. *JB
Steve
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#1566 of 6385 squizz... by jv312
Sep 06, 2002 (5:06 am)
My 2002 Explorer is like yours (V6 w/ 7K, bought at end of Apr). It has begun the mystery squeak too. Monday I bring it for an oil change, was going to ask the dealer then. I'll post whatever I find out.#1567 of 6385 I'm not Alone by lisa1264
Sep 06, 2002 (8:47 pm)
Hello everybody? This is the first time that I have come across this web page, but from all the postings that I have seen regarding Ford Explorer woes, I know now that I am alone. I purchased a 2000 Ford Explorer for lease in 2000. Within the first two weeks of ownership, it was in the shop three times, the first time being that the door locks continually operated and grinded, the second was the the steering sounded horrible when you tried to steer it, five months later it was that the back wiper motor burned out, the ignition would not turn to start, afterward I have had three computer components blow out, and since my warranty has run out, It is comping out of my pocketbook. Needless to say I have retained an attorney and he tells me I have a good case going in. I think everyone out there should get something going on this for a civil lawsuit. Don't get me wrong, I have owned 6 Fords in the last 17 years (including a Mercury Lynx which was somewhat of a pain) but I have never had any of the problems with them that I have had with this Exploder!#1568 of 6385 lisa1264 by tidester
Sep 06, 2002 (8:49 pm)
Welcome aboard! We're glad you found us.The folks here are friendly and helpful - enjoy!
tidester
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#1569 of 6385 lisa1264 by swschrad
Sep 06, 2002 (11:37 pm)
sounds like you got the bad one of the week, all right. I have had only a couple little diddly issues with mine. rear wiper motors have been a common issue, but haven't seen a lot of new complaints about 'em recently, possibly indicating a good revision.#1570 of 6385 Explorer Air Conditioner Question by eddiejobob
Sep 07, 2002 (8:54 am)
Last winter, my AC compressor started smoking and burned itself out. I disconnected the wiring and waited until summer to get an estimate. The dealer wants 1200 bucks. Local repair is 750. They claim that it probably threw alot of junk into the lines and other items need to be replaced as well. My question is: on a 1994, should I pay what amounts to almost a forth of the car's value or is there a less expensive alternative? any comments would be appreciated!#1571 of 6385 always a cheaper option by swschrad
Sep 07, 2002 (2:33 pm)
like pulling the clutch power plug and not having A/C, which you have tried. next question is whether you are feeling lucky today.let me 'splain. assuming you had the compressor hot enough to smoke, it was hot enough to melt plastics and goop the oil, and before compression failed all the way, pressed that yuck into the system. the a/c internals are full of fine little orifices, dinky needle valves, a filter/dryer that may or may not have been able to catch most of the crud, and lots of piping for the guck to plate out upon.
if you just get a junkyard compressor for $50-100 bucks, pour out the old oil, pour in the "right" amount of new oil, and bolt it on, you have replaced the biggest bad part. the system will need to be evacuated, which also draws out moisture but won't draw out particles and little plated gobs of plastic in the elbows of pipes, and then recharged. it's a good idea to use a refrigerant/oil mix with an indicator, by the way.
EXCEPT that your 1994 is almost certainly still an R11 "freon" system. so it would need to have ALL the old oil flushed out and the correct new stuff put in before R134a refrigerant went in there. it would be a good idea to replace the filter/dryer in any case on the conversion. "freon" lubricant will turn to Gummibears if used in an R134a system, meaning the new compressor dies quickly.
you may still have issues with old hoses, etc. that will become apparent when the system is charged... by that I mean immediately apparent with a loud noise.
$700 is not an outlandish quote from a good shop that will basically refit the system completely on the wear/tolerance parts and put a tested rebuilt compressor in for you. they might be quoting high in assumption that a hose or two might also need to be replaced. if the quote was itemized, you should be able to see that, if not ask again.
if your system is under pressure, an EPA-licensed shop must, by Federal law, evacuate and save all the old Freon. the quote would also include a share of the cost of the equipment they had to buy to do that.
those are the basic issues. if you're not under pressure, and you want to play around with it, and have a tank of dry nitrogen with a pressure regulator to flush the old oil out, that's cheaper. may take a long time to get it working, though, and a lot more parts.
one-shot with a probable 90-day warranty on parts and labor, $700 is reasonable.
$1200 is a rip, but it might include a full "R134a re-engineering kit" from Ford for your truck, in which case it's less of a rip.
#1572 of 6385 Wet rear axle.... by marcjlc
Sep 09, 2002 (11:03 am)
Once again I must report on another issue I have discovered this weekend on my 2000 Exp Sport!!As per TSB 14011 (#104) mentioned in the Edmunds Maintenance Guide my rear diff began leaking ever so slightly (wet). To restate: faulty rear axle Pionion Oil Seal. The diff oil: 75W140 (synthetic). Sooo, will pick up a quart at Ford tonight and quiz the service guys there on the cost to replace the seal. I stongly recomend all readers to browse the Edmunds Maintenance Guide, as it has helped me keep an eye any potential ISSUES!!
Good Luck
Marcjlc
#1573 of 6385 thanks jv312... by squizz
Sep 09, 2002 (1:32 pm)
Looking forward to what they tell you. I took mine in last Friday, and the technician logged the old "cannot duplicate problem at at this time" response on the ticket.So, I hope you have better luck... guess I'll have to wait until it gets really bad for them to be able to do something about it.
#1574 of 6385 Squeaking problem by derek_seymour
Sep 12, 2002 (11:26 am)
Hello, in reply to #1513 and #1518, this may help -I just bought a used '96 Explorer XLT, and took it to the dealers for a 90K mile service. On this car there is an occasional squeak/whirring on the lower passeneger side, when in low revs and accelerating, or when accelerating heavily at higher speeds. It usually stops once the revs are stable.
The dealer said that this is caused by a bearing in the "Idler Pulley" wearing down; the bearing will continue to wear over time but 'it will probably go for a long time before seizing up'. I was quoted $28 parts for replacement plus $70 labor (1 hour) to replace it.
FYI - to find it, the idler pulley is the lower leftmost wheel in the engine compartment around which the fan-belt turns (when looking at the engine from the front). It has no purpose other than to support the fan-belt.
I hope this helps
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