Last post on Nov 26, 2006 at 9:18 PM
You are in the Ford F-Series
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Ford F-150, Ford F-250, Ford F-350, Ford F-100, Truck
#93 of 2180 1997 F150 Rust
Nov 20, 2001 (9:00 am)
We have a 1997 F150 which is rusting on the inside bottom of the 3rd door and the inside of the passenger door. Dealer said it would have to rust through in order for Ford to pay for anything. Has anyone had similar problems? Any fix from the dealer? This is the first new truck/car we have owned that has started to rust in just 4 years of ownership. Seems extreme to me.
#94 of 2180 bmcbride2 (90 of 91)
Nov 20, 2001 (7:14 pm)
Seriously, wouldn't having a short block installed be better than ruining your credit?
Nov 21, 2001 (7:07 am)
Why not check out the salvage yards for a motor??? Those around here offer at least a short warranty, basically they guarantee that the motor will work when you install it. Others actually offer a warranty with time/mileage just like the major rebuilders. I don't know which motor you have in your truck or how much a short block vs. salvage yard motor would cost, but it seems to me a 97 F-150 is definitely worth fixing!!! Take it from someone who sees the results of repo's and what they can do to your financial future, don't do it! If you let the bank have the truck, then you lose control over how much the truck is sold for and therefore how much you will owe the bank after the truck is sold. At least if you sell it, you can attempt to get as much as possible whereas the bank may let it go at the first offer they get. Also, if you sell/let the bank have the truck, do you have another vehicle? If you do, maybe you should sell the truck. If not, it will cost you just as much, or more, to go buy a "beater" as it will to fix the truck. I don't know about you, but if I had the choice of driving a 97 F-150 or a "beater" for the same money, guess which I would choose.
I have had similar experiences with factory recalls. I used to own a 1987 GMC truck. I didn't buy it new, but I bought it from the local dealer in 87 with only 4,000 miles on it. I always garage my vehicles and keep them waxed, the paint started coming off before the truck was two years old. If you remember, GM did a recall. Guess what, mine wasn't part of it. The recall specified a certain date, which was the build date for the trucks at the beginning of the recall period. My truck, being a very late 87 model, was built after that beginning build date. I was told, by the dealers in the area, that since my truck was the old body style, mine wasn't included. Factories do this all the time, for the cost of a paint job, they could have kept me as a loyal customer. Instead, now I own all Fords and would NEVER consider a GM product.
#96 of 2180 Shortsighted
Nov 29, 2001 (3:15 am)
It seems manufacturers are quite short sighted when it comes to keeping customers happy and loyal. They will, as my Dad used to say, "Gag on a gnat and swallow a camel." I think Walmart has the right idea. Satisfy the customer if there is a problem, even if it costs at the time, and that act will return manyfold the profit from a happy repeat customer. Auto manufacturers don't look at it that way, however.
I agree with mullins87. Don't let your credit be ruined because of a blown engine and lose an otherwise good truck to boot. If you can't do the work yourself and know a good independent mechanic see what they can do for you. Some engine rebuilders will provide you a rebuilt and do the install themselves. You didn't say what engine you have, but if it has inherent problems I would also consider changing to another that doesn't.
#97 of 2180 Just got my 99 F250 SD 7.3L
Nov 29, 2001 (12:11 pm)
I just bought a 99 F250 SD with the turbo diesel engine. When I purchased the truck, I asked the previous owner if it was keyless entry, since all he had was one key. He mentioned that he never did have a transmitter (he bought the truck used as well). The truck has power windows and door locks. My question is, is there a way to determine if the truck is actually a keyless entry truck? If there is a way, and it does turn out that it should have a remote transmitter for door locks and such, can I order another from the dealer, or am I S.O.L.? Thanks bunches.
Nov 29, 2001 (1:53 pm)
You can order the remote from your dealer. They will probably need the VIN or some other ID number. I can't help you with how to determine if it is a "keyless" truck. Mine has power windows and locks, but the keyless is not mentioned on the window sticker.
#99 of 2180 keyless
Nov 29, 2001 (6:58 pm)
I think I know how you can determine if you have keyless entry or not..
How the key fob's are programmed is:
a. have all of the fob's that you want to program with you (up to 4)
b. put the key in the ignition
c. cycle it 6 (or 8) times from the off to the run, back to off position. Do this within 10 seconds.
The door locks will lock/unlock to indicate that it's in 'program' mode.
Leave the key in the run position.
d. press a button each of the fobs.
e. turn the key to the 'off' position. programming is complete..
My guess is that if you have keyless, you'll know it at step c. when the locks cycle.. in your case you don't have any fob's to program..
I really like this programming feature because I use the same fob for my superduty and escape.
#100 of 2180 re: Keyless by bess
Nov 30, 2001 (8:10 am)
I am sure that this is a stupid question, but what are you referring to as "fob's"
#101 of 2180 dhintzd
Nov 30, 2001 (6:10 pm)
Sorry, fob is what is referred to as the little remote control that attaches to the keychain.
Dec 01, 2001 (1:25 pm)
It seems to come on when ever it wants. I start the truck and it comes on, then sometimes when I close the door it turns off or stays on. I cant drive with my 3rd Brake light on every second. And when I turn my truck of, It sometimes remain on. This will drain my battery. This is a problem with my passenger door. Does anyone have suggestions? Anyone had this problem? Please help! Truck is a 1998 F150 XL Flare.