Last post on Nov 26, 2006 at 9:18 PM
You are in the Ford F-Series
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Ford F-150, Ford F-250, Ford F-350, Ford F-100, Truck
#1576 of 2180 1994 FORD PICK-UP - STRANGE PROBLEMS
Oct 08, 2005 (6:35 pm)
I have a 1994 Ford F-150, 4WD, 302, Short Bed. I use this truck on my farm and it has oversized tires. It starts and ran fine until yesterday. It has since developed three noticable problems. #1 - No speed ohmeter (It started jumping back and forth now it stays on "0". #2 - At the same time the ABS light came on. #3 - The transmission is now shifting hard. It did this for a short time yesterday and then seemed to be OK. It started again today and has the three problems. I checked the transmission fluid and it is OK. (The only thing I could think of to do.) What could be wrong that would cause all three items to occur at the same time? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you - Marilyn
#1577 of 2180 Fuel pump and injection will not start with key
Oct 08, 2005 (8:02 pm)
When I turn on my key my fuel pump does not start and when I jump the pump and have pressure I crank the truck and the fuel injection does not work so my truck will not start. The relay is good. It makes the pump pump if you give it a ground through the tan wire with a green stripe. Can anyone tell me what is telling my truck to not pump fuel or turn on the fuel injection? Where does the tan wire come from? What is my problem? Please help.
#1578 of 2180 Re: ABS warning lite [nosmoke]
Oct 10, 2005 (5:06 am)
Could be the sensor on the top of rear axle has come unplugged or broken at plug
#1579 of 2180 Re: 1994 FORD PICK-UP - STRANGE PROBLEMS [8wildhorses]
Oct 10, 2005 (5:11 am)
Sounds ike a fuse gone in circuit .open fuse panel and look at fuse panel diaram and see if all three are onsame circuit.
#1580 of 2180 Re: 86 f250 460 fuel prob? [fishrman]
Oct 10, 2005 (5:38 pm)
I had a 78 with a 351 W dual tanks, similar problem. Had to drop both tanks and clean the fuel pick up screens that were plugged with 25 years of rusty looking goo. Dont know if you've done that yet but I tried everything. How about fuel pump pressure test at cranking speed? Good luck.
#1581 of 2180 Re: Hello: [jrosasmc]
Oct 10, 2005 (5:50 pm)
Some years ago my Dad and I had a business with three Ford F-500 trucks each with a 300 in. six. Trannies varied from 4 speed or 5 speed all with 2 speed rear ends. Long on torque, don't like to run much over 3,000 rpm where is seems their power curve drops like a rock and with routine maintenance they were reliable. Never had one quit and need a tow home. Put about 200,000 miles on each. Word to the wise however, Ford liked to use plastic or composite timing gears. They lasted about 100,000 miles. A new set of steel gears costs around $50.00 and never gave us a problem after we ditched the plastic. We did have to replace one water pump once. That's about all.
#1582 of 2180 Re: Ford F350-Front end vibration [ivand_danko]
Oct 10, 2005 (6:07 pm)
Not sure if you've have a front end shop look at your vehicles but my F-250 started doing almost the exact same things at about 70K. I checked everything myself and things felt tight. Took it to a front end shop and promptly replaced my tie rod ends and the problem went away. Yes the truck steered straight even with the funky tie rod ends but I noticed that once the new ones were installed there was a little less play in the steering wheel. Found out from the previous owner that he had to replace the tie rod ends at 20K and the dealer blamed the premature wear (remember factory OEM tie rod ends are non-greasable) on the oversize 33 X 12.5 X 16.5 aftermarket tires. Well, it was either the monster tires for the snow and plow or figure out a way to make a half-track out of the truck. Just my 2cents worth. Cost me about $150 parts and labor to make my truck happy again. Good luck. Dillondawg.
#1583 of 2180 Re: Bad Miss in Motor [rtfordman]
Oct 10, 2005 (6:54 pm)
Did you replace the distributor cap and rotor? These are likely culprits to the symptoms you describe, especially under load. Good luck.
#1584 of 2180 Re: HELP!!!!! Please [junity]
Oct 10, 2005 (7:15 pm)
OUCH BUDDY; I'll break it as gently as I can to you. You have a mess to deal with. That's the bad news. Here's the good news: It's all fix able. I've done the front ends on numerous 4WD F-250s with the Dana 50 which is the axle you have in case anyone asks at the parts store when you go to buy seals and bearings. There could be a lot of hidden damage with the circs you describe, stuff like bent or broken caliper mounts, tie rod end, and ball joints although I doubt the ball joints suffered. You are going to need some special tools to take apart the front hub and these are available at most auto supply stores. They look like huge sockets with splines on the ends. You will also need a snap-ring tool (get the convertible inner / outer version and some I believe 1/4 inch hex wrench or socket to remove the locking hub mechanism. Next buy a Chilton's repair manual and follow the directions to re packing thee front wheel bearings but keep a sharp eye out for collateral damage such as the caliper and mounts. Good luck on this one. FYI, for a truck with no damage and a straight wheel bearing re-pack on a F-250 4WD takes me about 90 minutes a wheel to do it right. A lot of that time is spent cleaning and inspecting the bearings and races. Good luck.
#1585 of 2180 Re: HELP!!!!! Please [junity]
Oct 10, 2005 (7:22 pm)
Sorry, forgot your main question about how the hub is attached to the spline. There is a very small circlip inside there that you wont see until you get the hub lock nuts off with the big splined socket I mentioned. The circlip is what you will need the circlip pliers for. Once the circlip is off, everything comes apart.