Toyota Tundra Problems - READ ONLY

1322 messages,  Last post on May 14, 2002 at 4:08 AM

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#569 of 1322 twowheeler by ndahi12

Feb 17, 2002 (2:04 am)

I would not pay more than 1% over invoice. A lot of people are getting their trucks at invoice. I have heard that toyota is running a 2.9% special financing but I do not know the details. I got my truck for for 1% over invoice and then I got a $100 gift certificate to Home Depot. I got 4.9% financing for 60 months back when they were running the 0%.
 
I know the issues of the Tundra and I will list them:
 
Cramped rear space
Bed needs to be an 1-2 inch deeper
Soft stock shocks, at least for me
Cold start up clatter
Warpped rotors on the 2000 and some 2001
Thin paint
No gas door latch inside the truck. That one really pisses me off.
Occasional tranny thunk when you come to an abrupt stop. Lubing the drive shaft that exits the tranny seems to solve the problem.
 
I honestly cannot think of anything else. Gas mileage will average 15 mpg. I tow with my truck and I drive 75-80 on the frwy and still get 15 mpg. I do not think that is bad considering my driving style.
 
So far I am very satisfied with the truck.

#570 of 1322 ndahi12 by obyone

Feb 17, 2002 (2:18 am)

Well I can think of one. Is the pistons in the Tundra cast or forged?

#571 of 1322 ndahi12... by hillhound

Feb 17, 2002 (2:42 am)

Here's the question I asked initially:
"So as far as you're concerned, it's perfectly acceptable to spend about 30 grand on a new 1/2 ton pickup that reqires the parking brake to be set each time you park the truck or suffer brake damage??"

It's a simple yes or no question. Does Toyota put that parking brake info in their owner's literature, or do you have to figure that out on your own?

And since YOU bought up relative braking performance versus GM trucks, here's the Edmunds data:
http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/comparison/articles/43902/page015.html
As you can see, the Tundra stopped in a whopping six feet shorter span. That's the distance of an average man's height compared against the total distance of about half of a football field. Big deal. The Silverado weighs a little more, so that's to be expected. I'll take that and keep my brakes, which won't turn into scrap metal if I forget to set the parking brake!!

#572 of 1322 hillhound by smith53

Feb 17, 2002 (3:22 am)

i hope you never hit a pothole or rough area on the road when you are braking because if you do more than likely you will be in for a thrill

#573 of 1322 eric2001....... by arkie6

Feb 17, 2002 (7:25 am)

"FYI: If you have the self-adjusting brakes (spring loaded lever on star adjuster) the proper way to adjust them is to get going about 10 mph in reverse, then slam on the brakes. I know it seems harsh, but that is how they were designed. Setting the parking brake does not adjust the brakes at all."
 
The rear brakes don't work that way on a Tundra. The Tundra does use rear drum brakes with a toothed wheel adjuster to maintain the shoes in close proximity to the drum; however, backing up does nothing to rotate the toothed wheel on the adjuster like on older Chevies. On the Tundra, appling the parking brake rotates the toothed wheel on the adjuster if needed. It looks similar to the Chevy brakes, but works a little bit differently.
 
And contrary to a previous post, it is not necessary to use your parking brake every time you park. Using it once a month or so is likely enough to keep the rear shoes properly adjusted since the rear brakes don't wear nearly as fast as the front brakes.
 
I believe most of the problems with the warping rotors and drums on the Tundra are due to the brake pad materials used. Due to government regulations surrounding health concerns with asbestoes, asbestoes has been removed from brake pads and linings, and brake manufacturers just haven't come up with a suitable replacement material that is on par with asbestoes as far as performance and cost are concerned. If you take a look through Edmunds townhall, you will see many complaints on all different makes of vehicles regarding warped brake rotors. Another contributer to the potential for front brake rotor warping on the Tundra is its use of 4 piston front calipers (the industry standard is 2 piston calipers on the front except for high end sports cars). These calipers can generate a tremendous amount of pressure and along with that comes heat (these 4 piston front calipers are also likely the reason the Tundra stops in a shorter distance than most if not all other pickups). Another thing to consider is the rear brake proportioning valve. If it is not properly set and you have too much front brake bias then this would be putting more stress and strain on the front brakes. The factory service manual has a detailed procedure for checking the brake bias, but I doubt most dealers would go to this trouble. It is just a whole lot easier to change pads and rotors and get you out of the shop hopefully until after your warranty expires. Another thing is that if you artificially raise or lower the rear of the truck, you will affect brake bias because the Tundra uses a load sensing proportioning valve. It measures the distance from the rear axle to the frame and increases rear brake bias as the distance between the two decreases (as would be indicated with increased load in the bed or on the bumper). If you raise the back of the truck with a lift (lift blocks, stiffer springs, helper springs, etc.) and do not adjust the proportioning valve linkage accordingly, you will reduce rear brake bias and shift more braking pressure to the front wheels even though the load on the truck has not changed.
 
So far, knock on wood, I have 27,500 miles on my 2000 Tundra 4x4 and have no indications of front brake rotor warping (and I still have all of the original brake components installed).
 
Alan

#574 of 1322 by f1jules

Feb 17, 2002 (8:20 am)

I have 30,000 miles on my Tundra and it has been to the dealership exactly once for the brake vibration problem (around 10,000 miles). The problem was more an annoyance than anything though. In no way did the truck ever feel unsafe. Toyota finished the repairs in a couple hours and I haven't had the problem since.
 
I don't use the parking brake everytime I park. I use it when I park on a hill or in my driveway which is sloped (I only park there to wash the truck and occassionally when I'm not parked in my garage).
 
"So as far as you're concerned, it's perfectly acceptable to spend about 30 grand on a new 1/2 ton pickup that reqires the parking brake to be set each time you park the truck or suffer brake damage??"
 
So hill, to answer your question, no, it's not okay but I don't know of any Tundra owners who a) paid $30 grand for their truck and/or b) are required to set the parking brake each time they park or suffer brake damage. Sorry but the facts do not support your statement.
 
I paid a little over $23k for my 2000 Tundra SR-5. I didn't get leather or 4x4. I have most of the other options though. MSRP was roughly $26,400.
 
I would never pay MSRP for a vehicle.

#575 of 1322 by f1jules

Feb 17, 2002 (8:43 am)

Man, I just read through 20 or so posts on the silverado problems thread and I actually feel sorry for some of those people. What a sorry-assed truck that silverado is.
 
Reminds me of a guy I used to work with. He has a fullsize Chevy conversion van and his transmission went out at 40,000 miles. Cost him about $2,000 to have it rebuilt. What a rip off.
 
How do you defend a company that manufactures junk like that? Why do people defend them? I guess if you only plan on keeping the thing for 2 years or you might be okay. Maybe that's how these people rationalize their purchase.

#576 of 1322 Ok, Fine by ndahi12

Feb 17, 2002 (10:34 am)

I overstated the need to use the parking brake. *I* use it EVERY time I park. Growing up in a monutainous country taught me that. It is safe to use it every time. It puts less stress on your tranny to use the parking brake every time. And it resets your brake bias when you use it on the Tundra.
 
I use mine everytime I park, where ever I park.
 
Just use the damned thing. Why do you think it was put in the truck in the first place? If it was not an integral part of any vehicle, it would have been made an option!!!!!

#577 of 1322 Hillbound by ndahi12

Feb 17, 2002 (10:44 am)

Here are some facts to ponder:
 
Fact 1: The Tundra stops in a shorter distance than the Chevy in whatever magazine that did the test.
 
Fact 2: The Tundra has been number one in intial quality with JD Power and recommended by CR for two years in a row and the Rado has not.
 
Fact 3: There are more TSBs and recalls year to year for the Rado than the Tundra, a lot more.
 
Fact 4: In its displacement class the Tundra out accelerates and out handles the Rado in any of the standard tests that mags run.
 
Fact 5: The Tundra has better resale value than the rado.
 
Fact 6: The Rado has more cabinet room, bed space, and tows more than the Tundra.
 
Fact 7: The Tundra is the only 1/2 ton truck that is SOLELY built in the US

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