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Pickups Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions 
1492 messages, Last post on Oct 12, 2006 at 5:32 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra Forum. Your Host is kcram
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okay, so this is my first post on this forum.... but after reading all the other potential problems i'll have with my sierra truck, this won't be my last. i have a 2000 gmc sierra 2wd v8 4.8... i can't find a chiltons, haynes OR helm manual for it and the local dealers here are putzes. i put my key in the ignition and after starting the truck, it would not dis-engage. i had to put the relays to stall the engine so my starter wouldn't be destroyed but even when i can shift into and drive in other gears and back into park... the key will not spring back out of the forward position. i haven't see nthis as a common problem, judging by the other posts here, so i figured one of yas might know how i can get my hands on a manual so i don't tear up my steering column. i have to go get a few parts after work, and all i have seen are a few screws under the steering column... please tell me there is nothing complicated in there. i am either changing the shifting cable or the ignition switch, hopefully the latter of the two... any thoughts? thanks nikki
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Replying to: kingfishingirl (Aug 24, 2006 10:37 am) The main reason I wanted to post this is there are a couple of things that the dealer has told me i had to bring my truck in to have something done and blatently lied to me. 1st, i bought a remote for the truck and when i went to pick it up, they told me i had to take the truck around back so they could program the remote. i thought, COOL! til they told me it would cost $45.00 to do because they have this big machine and blah blah blah. i gave them a few choice words and walked out. went on ebay later that night looking at remotes and found a remote for another vehicle with a link to program remotes free. in about 45 seconds i had my remote programmed, without a machine. and now this key tumbler deal. they told me they had a machine that would code my ignition key to the new ignition. $80.00 so, i politely looked up at the schmuck and asked him, why would i need a machine to do this? i have the 8 digit code and i have the old tumbler with ignition WITH the tumblers still in it. well the machine does all the work and your ignition won't work to your key. so, again with a few choice words, i walked out, went home and fixed it without a machine or more than two brain cells.
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Replying to: kingfishingirl (Sep 01, 2006 9:35 am)
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From everything I've seen on the internet, and in these forums, the 'piston slap' problem on GMC's 6.0 liter engine occurs when the engine is cold, and goes away once the engine is warm. My 2001 GMC only knocks when it's operating at normal temperature, usually around the 50 - 60 Kilometers per hour mark, or when hauling something (like my 5th wheel). I don't think it's a piston slap issue, but am very worried about the noise. Any ideas what it could be?
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Replying to: kcram (Sep 02, 2006 1:57 pm) |
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Replying to: asrtaylor (Sep 04, 2006 7:40 pm)
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Replying to: p100 (Sep 06, 2006 5:15 am) |
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  I have a 1994 GMC pick up w/ a 350 rebuilt engine. Started making a fluttering noise under the driver's side. I think I have an exhaust leak at one of the gaskets. I have never replaced an exhaust gasket before. Can anyone offer advice or a good manaual or site with advice on how to repair. It doesent look extremely difficult. Would it be better for me to pay a profrssional exhaust guy to replace it. Any idea on cost? Thanks! |
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My 20021500 HD 6.0 4x4 crew cab makes this buzzing sound that sounds like an electric motor noise from the back of the truck after it is running a while at 30-50 mph. It comes and goes for a few seconds at a time. I had the fuel pump replaced at the dealer but it still makes this noise. I use the truck for long trips sometimes when towing into remote areas so I really can't afford to get stuck. Any ideas?
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Replying to: razormann (Apr 29, 2006 2:45 pm) it would start and I would put it in drive, go two feet and it would die. It would not crank again. I would hear a buzzing noise under the dash when I would turn the key to the start(not crank) position. Lights would flicker on the dash, speedometer would go up to 30mph. Usually after 5 minutes of turning the ignition key, pushing in any wire connectors I could reach, pressing on brake pedal, shifting gears, it will eventually start again. Sometimes it will stall right back out again, other times I'm ready to go. One weird thing that happened last time, I thought the radio got fried. There was no lights on the radio after I turned it on and no music. I did check the fuses, but that was ok. The truck failed again today, after I got it running, not sure what I did, but now the radio works fine. Any help would be great. This weekend i'm going to try to inspect all electrical connections. I already checked all fuses inside the truck and under the hood. |
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