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Pickups Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions 
1492 messages, Last post on Oct 12, 2006 at 5:32 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra Forum. Your Host is kcram
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The vehicle is a 1998 GMC Sierra. This problem developed last summer and has started back now that it's warming up. Whenever the temperature is in the high 70s or above outside, the power windows will not go down (I would assume they don't go up either, but they're always up when I've got in and tried). There is no hum like a motor trying to operate or anything. I tried the switches on both the driver and passenger side and none of the switches will cause the windows to go down. After the temperature goes down outside, the windows work fine again. I haven't had any trouble out of them otherwise, so I wouldn't think it would be the switch being dirty. I'm wondering what components would be affected to the point of failure at around 80 degrees outside. I think there was a fusable link put on the power windows a couple of years ago due to a recall (it's questionable whether the dealership actually did the work). It seems like that might be related, but wouldn't a fusable link fail completely if overheated and not start working again when it cools down outside. Any suggestions are appreciated.
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Replying to: shiftless (May 22, 2006 5:22 pm)
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Replying to: obyone (May 26, 2006 3:56 am) |
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The vehicle is 2003 gmc sierra...I have this squeaking noise that seems to be coming from behind the gauges. Took front and bottom part of the dash apart and I still am unable to fix this....any ideas? |
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Replying to: titojermaine (May 23, 2006 5:21 pm) |
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2003 GMC 1500HD, 6.0 L; I am having an intermitent problem with the speedometer. It will often display much higher than actual speed. When stopped the gauge will read 20 or 30 mph. It comes and goes. I've been told that everything is electronic now. It sounds like it must be the gauge. Any thoughts? Do you have to replace just the speedometer or the whole gauge cluster? |
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Has anyone found a tool that helps in changing the distributor cap, or any other easy way to change the cap for that matter? I have a 1998 Sierra 3500 Dually 4wd. Last time I changed the distributor cap and rotor it was an 8 - 10 hour thing, because the cap is under the intake manifold so it is very difficult to tighten one of the cap's screws. |
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Replying to: noobie1 (Nov 30, 2005 9:32 am) I finally found something to post on here. The "piston slap" issue is really a load of crap. Dealers say it does it on start up and goes away, but I have noticed while driving the valves rattle like you have bad gas. The knocking you hear is more than likely the roller lifters with no oil at start up. The excuse piston slap is used is how the design of the engine and where the lifters are placed in the engine. They are held in place with in a grouping of 4 in a container that is bolted to the block. Due to the design the opening is large enough to amplify any engine noise near the pistons and the heads are bolted directly on top of the lifter gallies making it difficult to make this repair. I pulled the valve cover and ran the motor with little or no oil coming thru the pushrods on the lifters. I also have found out that the oil pumps can fail with no warning and have ran as low as 6psi at idle which the dealer says is normal. I am in the process of replacing the oil pump and lifters and hopefully will remedy my situation. It has not burned oil, like I have read on sites where 2-4 quarts of oil between oil changes is normal by dealer or GM customer service standards but it is not normal, I have had several GM's in the past and 1 quart or less in 3-5k was normal. I really love my truck and yes GM has got problems but they better get their stuff together and take care of the customer instead of being in denial or they will not have customers. |
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I have a 2002 GMC Denali PU 6.0L W/Quad Steering. Between 30-40MPH I experience a vibration noice (sounds like a heat shield vibrating maybe) When the vibration begins and I hold my speed steady, the vibration will not go away. I do not lose power or feel any change in vehicle handling. It is just anoying. Does anybody have any clues
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Replying to: jf3761 (Jun 20, 2006 5:49 pm) and your truck is a 02 I am betting on a loose heat sheild on your cat(s). Those cheap spot welds just break/rust off thus causing the vibration(s). Try driving a few wood wedges between the cat and muffler and see if it cures your problem.
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