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Messages Page 85 of 87

#834 of 856 re: hitch ratings by madmacs

Jun 13, 2003 (1:08 pm)

Actually, Class IV is specified as 5,000 to 10,000 lbs. This does not mean that it is actually rated for 10k lbs., just that it is somewhere between 5k and 10k. Also, a hitch can be classified as a Class IV and be capable of supporting 10k lbs, but it might require weight distribution to get to that load. An example is the Draw-Tite hitch for the 2002 Ram 1500. It is a Class IV hitch but is only rated for 5k lbs if used in a weight carrying situation. Here's a link:
 
http://www.draw-tite.com/fitguides/fitguides/hitchsel_results.asp- - ?class=CLASS+IV&year=2002&make=Dodge&model=Pickup%2C+- - Ram%2C+Full+Size&style=1500+Only&x=47&y=0
 
I am using the Ram to pull a boat that weighed in at 5250 lbs with 530 lbs tounge weight on a CAT Scale. Since the trailer has surge breaks, weight distribution is not recommended. The upgrade to electric breaks is not something that I want to do right now, so I just need to find a Class IV hitch that supports about 7,000 lbs or more in a weight carrying capacity. I know these hitches are available as an aftermarket, but the factory hitch is there and it sure would be nice to be able to find the actual rating for it. I'm going up to another Dodge dealer tonight to see if they might be able to help out. I'll post any info I get from them.
 
I apologize for being such a pain about this, but it has become somewhat of a sore spot for me since I can't get the answer I am looking for.

#835 of 856 IowaBigGuy by brucec35

Jun 14, 2003 (6:09 pm)

Wow, that price is $8300 below MSRP. It seems from what I recall that the spread between MSRP and invoice price is about $3000-$3500 for that price of truck. With the FB $500 rebate and $2500 rebate that means paying invoice price you'd be paying about $6500 off MSRP. So, by my rough estimate, you got your truck for about $1800 below invoice price, plus the various rebates. I wonder if we can expect similar pricing if we look hard enough here in Georgia? Any other reason why you may have got such a great deal? (unpopular color choice, demo, etc?) I can get one at invoice price here, but I'd sure like to do better if the market is that slow. I realize it varies by market, but that's a fantastic price.

#836 of 856 brucec35 - rebates by iowabigguy

Jun 14, 2003 (6:44 pm)

You forgot 1 rebate, also had an additional $1000 rebate I received in the mail. Total rebates was $4000. There was a Memorial day sale and all "loaded" Rams were $3500 off MSRP. I had been looking and negotiating for a month or so. I wanted a Ram 1500 with a 4.7l v8, 5 speed auto, limited slip, 4 wheel anti-lock brakes and 2 wheel drive. These items were non negotiable. The closest the dealer could come was was a 5.7 hemi, 5 speed auto, limited slip, 4 wheel anti-lock brakes and 2 wheel drive. Unfortunately it had a 3.92 rear end and 20" wheels. I was hoping to get reasonable gas mileage and also did not want to pay $800+ for 20" wheels. The dealer finally knocked off the price of the wheels and I compromised & "forced" myself to take the Hemi. The $1000 coupon I got in the mail and the dealer knocking off the price of the 20" wheels is what made the fantastic price. Mileage is not too bad, first tank was 14.3mpg but that was breaking in the motor, my second tank is looking to be in the 13 range as I get on it more. Good luck in your search for your truck. Don't ever buy a truck on the first day you deal on it and don't ever let the saleperson know how bad you really want the truck. Do your research and play dealers off against one another. In the Omaha, Nebraska area there are 8 5 star dealers. 2 are major players and don't care to lose sales to the other. It works......

#837 of 856 IowaBigGuy by brucec35

Jun 14, 2003 (8:34 pm)

aha! I knew I was forgetting something there. Man, why can't a $1000 rebate show up in my mailbox?
 
Yeah, one salesman was really hot to sell me "TODAY" but I told him to cool his jets. I am going to get a price from what is said to be the biggest J/D/C dealer in the country before buying. They are a no-haggle dealer. My brother bought from them at true invoice(no doc fees) last week. I was hoping to do a little better than that on a regular cab (no kids and I tow al lthe time so I want something a little shorter to get into tight areas better) Getting a Hemi is now a no-brainer, especially if you were going to get 4 wheel abs anyway, due to the discount they give you on it with a Hemi. Resale value is why.
 
Someone earlier asked about the class IV hitch. I just looked at their towing guide online and it says 1200 lb max tongue weight for the IV and 500 lbs for the class III.

#838 of 856 Hitches by hersbird

Jun 14, 2003 (11:05 pm)

I still say all class IV hitches are rated for 10,000 pounds. The weight distributing part is more a function of the receiver that goes in the hitch, and the toung of the trailer. So yes you can't put 10,000 pounds on a class IV hitch unless you use a weight distributing hitch. Here's what the Dodge owner's manual says on page 224:
   With a Class I Hitch, your vehicle can be equipped to tow trailers with a Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) of 907 kg. (2000 lbs.) maximum.
   Class II is up to 3500 lbs, but tongue weight must be between 10-15% of total trailer.
   Class III is up to 5000 lbs, and the the factory bumper is a class III hitch.
   Class IV is rated to up to 10,000 pounds depending on your vehicle equipment.
 
I was paraphrasing there at the end to avoid repetition of the lower ratings, but bottom line a class IV is for up to 10,000 pounds. The manual later says the maximum tongue weight is 1000 pounds on the class IV and that the equalizing hitch should be used for toung weights over 350 pounds (which would mean 10% on a 3500 pound trailer) on either the class III or IV.
 
So then go to www.dodge.com/towing and find out how much of that 10,000 pounds you can really tow. Personally I think that 350 pound toung weight limit for non-equalizing hitches is pretty conservative, but it limit's Dodge's liability so they try for optimum conditions.
 
All of this is laid out in the owners manual between pages 224 and 228, with the specific for the equipment on the webpage. I kind of like the specifics on the web because when they put it in the owners manual it's usually more generalized. My brother's expedition is listed just 4 ways, 4.8 or 5.4 and 2wd or 4wd, it seems like there would be more possibilities if they really wanted to break it down. The Dodge webpage must have 100 different combos on there for the Ram alone!

#839 of 856 hitches by sebring95

Jun 15, 2003 (7:20 pm)

I agree with Hersbird. I have noticed some aftermarket hitches recently rating them for 10,000# only if equipped with a equalizing hitch. My guess is they're trying to cover their butts legally by doing that. In the past, all class IV hitches have been rated at 10,000# regardless. It was left up to you to decide if you need the weight distributing hitch.
 
Madmacs concerns about 7,000# are probably not really warranted IMHO. Most hitches have more than enough safety cushion on the ratings anyway.

#840 of 856 Invoice Price Canada by john358

Jun 26, 2003 (1:19 pm)

Hey all,
 
I have been reading a lot about MSRP and invoice price. I live in Canada, so I know it is a little bit different. Is there anyone that knows a good link that describes true MSRP's and invoice prices/rebates here?
 
I also have another request can someone, please confirm/correct if my visions of the car market are correct in the US?
 
-The dealer buys the car from the company and pays invoice price, and is technically should sell for MSRP. (The dealer also pays for holdback which he gets back after selling the car)
- If dealer will make money if he sells Invoice + commission of salesman + cost of running dealership. So really, invoice + 500 is a GREAT deal.
- If there are rebates, that is money that the company will give back to the dealer after selling a car. So if the dealer pays $10,000 invoice. Normally he will sell for $10,500. So the dealer makes $500 But if there is a dealer rebate of $2,000. He will only be paying $8,000 for car making a profit of $2,500. So people negotiate the price down to $8,500, so the dealer still makes $500 and the consumer just pays less. So the only real looser in this situation is the car company, correct?
- Are there incentives even if you choose the 0% financing?
 
I know I am simplifying, but is that the jist of it?
 
Anyone know how it is different for Canada?
 
Thanks

#841 of 856 john358 by mac24

Jun 26, 2003 (5:49 pm)

Yes, that's a simplified version of how it happens here in the US. The dealer either sells a car from stock, or orders one for a customer, after the conclusion of negotiations that are satisfactory to the dealer. This may mean above or below invoice, but it will always be satisfactory to the dealer.
 
Can't help with Canadian invoice pricing but I do know that there's a big market in Canadian vehicles being sold into the US. So much so that the manufacturers try to discourage it by not honoring their warranties here.

#842 of 856 Tow Hitch Rating Answer by madmacs

Jun 27, 2003 (8:38 am)

I was finally able to get the ratings for the factory trailer hitch.
 
For trucks made prior to Nov 2002:
10000 lbs weight distrubiting/ 1000 lbs tounge weight
5000 lbs weight carrying/ 500 lbs tounge weight
 
For trucks made after Nov 2002:
12000 lbs weight distrubiting/ 1200 lbs tounge weight
5000 lbs weight carrying/ 500 lbs tounge weight

#843 of 856 John 358 by indydriver

Jun 27, 2003 (6:40 pm)

Invoice +$500 is not a great deal. The standard deal on domestic makes stateside is invoice less rebate. I would assume the invoice price in Canada would be different due to exchange rates but, if you stick with this formula, you'll get a good deal regardless.

Messages Page 85 of 87

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