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1377 messages, Last post on Nov 20, 2003 at 1:43 PM
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It is a Nomad and weighs about 5000 lbs loaded. The newer engines have more power than the older ones. My V-6 has 200 hp at a low 4600 rpm and has about 210 ft/lbs torque avaliabe at just 1100 rpms! Not many V-8s did that a few years ago! What was your trans temp climbing the hill in second? Over 280? I'm not sure I agree with you that pusing a small engine is less efficinet than working a larger engine less. This goes against physics. Volumetric losses are less in the smaller engine. I will explain in detail if you would like. |
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| During my two trips over the past few weeks I traveled over 5,000 miles. I tried the T/H a few times in the mountains and found the truck seemed to do better without it. It would stay in a lower gear more and longer than with it out thus higher RPMS and less gas millage. The mountains here in NC are much steeper than any of the others we went in (5 & 6 % for several miles.) My transmission never reached 200 (maybe 180). The highest I have seen it is about 190 in 4 wheel drive in really soft sand on a very hot day for several miles. A few times coming down the mountains I shifted down to 2 to keep from having to brake as much. | |
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My transmission temperature never got very high, maybe 200 if I remember correctly. It's just that it changed noticeably from the bottom of the hill to the top. If it's anything like the engine temperature, it will hit a reasonable max and just stay. I've never seen the engine temp budge from normal under any condition. You may be correct about the engine. With fuel injection and feedback controls it may be just as efficient at WO as normal and really be a function of displacement. I don't think that was true back in the carburetor days. At 5000 lbs that is one heck of a load. Are you sure it's that heavy, even loaded? That would be way over my 2500's rating, I can't imagine what a 1/2 ton would do with such a load. The biggest Lance only comes in at around 3500 lbs. What suspension mods have you made? |
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| Sure it holds it in a lower gear, that's the point. Once the engine load is low enough for several seconds it will shift. I never use T/H without the camper, it just isn't needed. With your camper being so light for that truck you probably don't need it very often. One situation where it is helpful is climbing winding roads. It prevents an upshift every time you let up on the gas to enter a corner. That's an annoying feature of automatics. | |
| It is a camper trailer. I think 5000 lbs would crush my half ton! It is only rated to hold 2000 lbs. Thanks for the trans temp info. My engine temp never moves either. It stays the same even in 100 degree heat, A/C on, and towing up hill foot to the floor. These trucks have excellent cooling systems. | |
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I see now. I get confused when people refer to trailers as campers. I guess that's why campers are usually referred to as "truck camper" or "slide-in camper." If you told me you were carrying a 5000 camper I'd ask for a picture because that would be a sight to see! Did you happen to see the picture making its way around the web a year ago or so of a grossly overloaded Volkswagen Jetta? It had about 3000 lbs of Home Depot lumber on top and died in the parking lot when the shocks came up through the sheet metal. It was a great picture. I'll try to find it just for fun. |
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I found several copies of that picture and story. I guess it's an internet legend now. |
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I saw that pic before! I think the Silverado would handle the 5000 pounds better than that! I can not activate the ABS when towing with about 500 lbs (dead) hitch weight and about 500 lbs load in the truck. The brakes just do not have the reseve capacity even if I use two feet and pull on the wheel! I have had to stop quick a few times in heavy city traffic and it is nerve racking. Is this just my truck? |
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I'm surprised to hear that because one thing the new style GM truck almost always scores high on is the brakes. The last version had notoriously weak and mushy brakes from everything I've read, I think GM went to a lot of effort to get it right this time. I'd suspect your trailer brakes first. You can't expect the truck to do all the work, it isn't designed for that much extra load. And remember the 1/2 ton has smaller brakes front and rear with single pistons on the rear. Your load is right about at the Hmmmm decision point between a 1/2 and 3/4 ton truck in my opinion even though it is below the rated maximum. But I'm a big believer in overkill as a general principal. I've read some tips in Trailer Life on how to test and set trailer brakes but I don't remember any details. I did get the impression that it's a touchy setting. I've read some posts from guys who swear that 4-wheel ABS when towing is very dangerous. I think they felt that the trailer can cause the ABS to kick in prematurely and cause loss of braking power. Does anyone know why some people feel this way and if it's true? |
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The trailer brakes are controlled by a electric controller. There are two basic types of controllers, time delay and sensing. I have the time delay type. This type will always apply the trailer brakes with the same ramp rate up to the set max. In other words, this type of controller will not compensate for a panic stop. That said, even with the trailer brakes disconnected, I would suspect I could activated the truck ABS. Unloaded I have no problem activating ABS. I was wondering if I glazed the pads or if this is typical of a loaded half ton. I do not see why ABS is dangerous when towing. I think it is a life saver. To prevent a jack-knife no wheels can lock. The ABS prevts lockup on the truck and a properly set controller should prevent it on the trailer. |
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