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Pickups Pickups - Archived Discussions Cabover Campers & Camper Trailers (pickups) 
1377 messages, Last post on Nov 20, 2003 at 1:43 PM
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| I asked Bob Prim over on the Pacific-Audio GM Trucks forum about this (Bob is a Silverado/Sierra electrical systems GURU). His response is here: http://209.35.112.209/performance/messages/124134.html | |
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We really had that all figured out by now. What I was asking is where is the camper feed wire connection actually at so i can disconnect it from the Primary circuit to extend it over to the relay?? (Now i would pay for this information (  ) Does it go to a junction block somewhere? Wired directly into the master fuse block on the left front fender? Physically where is the convenient point to disconnect that wire to extend it to the relay without cutting to allow the option of reconnecting it if one found it necessary for GM issue. I don't want to just pull it out of wiring harness and cut it. Thks -- 75v |
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I'm now convinced that we are all reacting to something which doesn't exist. What I mean is that the purpose of the aux battery option is to help run heavy electrical loads when the engine is on. We want to use it for an RV and blame GM because it isn't wired for our application. Certainly our way is better and they should connect the trailer wiring to the aux battery because it would then meet both needs. But I feel better about the whole situation now that I understand it.
75v, I thought you read my website battery instructions many times???? Maybe you just wanted to make me feel good. Ha. Anyway, the heavy red trailer/camper wire terminates on a stud under the fuse box thing behind the primary battery. If I remember correctly it's the left stud as you will be looking at it. You will need to lift the plastic housing to get at the nut. To remove the housing you must remove the fender brace above it, but I was able to free the wire without doing so. I just lifted it enough to gain access.
While you are in there, R&D Truck Accessories sells a nifty relay for $15 that keeps the low beams on when the high beams are on. It connects inside the same box. It's an easy install, they supply everything. |
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I did read that part of your post but was hoping there might have been another connection somewhere else. -- Sounded kinda complicated prying the fuse box up and all to get to that post. -- I even have printed your instructions (more than once now) and thought i had taken them with me - Didn't find em at the time though. I like your nifty relay suggestion for the low beam on with high. If you think you can stand any more of this i'll get one on order -- Thanks I'll bit the bullet and start prying on the fuse box soon as i get the Hi/Lo relay. Or maybe i'll have Mike show me when he get to the Maidrite!! 75v |
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Don't worry about lifting the box, it's made to come off easy for access. The R&D instructions will have you remove the bracket and lift the box off entirely. I think it's one screw and then a latch to free with a screwdriver. Takes about 5-10 minutes including the bracket. I also bought another black box from R&D that unlocks the doors when you put the trans in park. Maybe they offer this as a programming option on the new trucks but they didn't in 2000. I got tired of slamming into the door when I wanted to jump out for something. The box wires under the dash, costs about $30, and works flawlessly. |
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Thanks all for the great posts on the aux. battery factory option! This option was on my list when I ordered my 2001 GMC 2500LD. After questioning my dealer about how it worked, decided against it. (Dealer actually described it correctly it turns out). With the knowledgeable input by the group here, this topic represents the best of what this site has to offer. Great job! Tom |
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Glad you were able to get some useful information from us. I found Edmunds to be invaluable in 99 when the new style truck was coming out because the dealers knew nothing and I was hungry for information. I was thrilled to find this forum and talk with real owners. If you want to add the aux battery to your truck as I did, I have a list of factory part numbers on my site. You probably know this if you've been reading along. |
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If its monday,we must be in Nebraska at my brother's house. Expect to pass through your area tomorrow. We found a really nice camping area in Wyoming. Called Natural Bridge (County) Park), just off I-25 between Douglass and Caspar. A nice river runs through the canyon, under a 90' natural bridge. Very clean, neat and FREE!! We will stop on our way back. The only problem is the gates are closed from 8-8. So we have to sleep in that day! Later, Mike |
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I looked up GM production holds on wheels.com, and the TP2 Aux battery IS on hold "until further notice" for the Silv 2500 & 2500HD. I had planned on getting that option for the HD I am just about to order (to pull a travel trailer I plan to buy). Seems I won't miss a lot. Thanks for you and the others distributing so much info that you worked hard to get. The PY0 polished alum wheels are also on hold for the LS models (with the 1SB option package) - another option I had, and one that means more to me. BTW - I read your early June posts on the "Introduce Yourself" page. What do you do for a living? I'm curious about the nuclear-related trip you had to make to upstate NY back then. I'm a reactor engineer/core designer on the TX Gulf Coast. Mike |
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Almost all travel trailers have batteries, no need for the underhood spare. We have two 6V golf cart batteries on our travel trailer, 220 amp-hour capacity for less than $100. Truck recharges them automatically.... I'd only want the extra underhood battery for one reason, if I had a slide in camper without a battery.... Then, I'd want a deep cycle. |
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