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Pickups Pickups - Archived Discussions Cabover Campers & Camper Trailers (pickups) 
1377 messages, Last post on Nov 20, 2003 at 1:43 PM
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I carry my Lance 1010 (3,600lbs loaded) directly on my spray-in Rhino liner with no ill effects. In fact I am not using any other spacer (other than the thickness of my Rhino liner) between my camper and my Ford Super Duty truck. It's a tight fit but so far nothing has hit. Steve Heywood 2002 Lance 1010 2002 F350 DRW CC PSD |
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Wow, I thought Ford SD's always needed something under the camper to clear the top of the cab. That Lance 1010 must be a tall camper - at least to the bottom of the front overhang. Mike L |
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| We have used them in a 8x12 foot cabin we built on the shore of a NH pond. (No road/power/phone - go in by canoe). It seems dumb but the version with a pump powered by a few dry cells is really a lot more satisfactory than the one that uses a pump to flush. The flush is much stronger. Used with care they are as good as what is in our Sunlight (and sometimes better as when the Sunlight's blackwater tank leaked.) | |
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I don't expect much mileage improvement since the mileage always sucks. Probably will go from 10 to 13 or 14. Percentage wise that's significant I guess. Since I still have my old hydraulic jacks and the brackets that came with the new ones I'll go ahead and install those and use the front brackets with the Happyjac turnbuckles. I don't know how the rear will fit since the turnbuckle attaches to the bumper, sort of under the camper. How can it reach around to a corner bracket? I'll wait until I have it to figure this out. I was thinking about the tie downs. The front turnbuckles connect to the bed which is fine, but the rear connect to the bumper. The bumper is connected to the frame, not to the bed, so as the bed moves in relation to the frame there will be a twisting force applied to the camper. This wouldn't happen if the camper were tied down to the bed the way Four Wheel intends. What do you think? If the rear turnbuckles had a spring like the fronts rather than a rubber bumper I'd feel better about it. The over pressure valve leaking water means you need an air pocket to allow expansion. This is from Suburban: Why does water drip from my water heater's pressure relief and temperature valve? Answer: You may experience water weeping or dripping from your water heater's pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve when your water heater is operating. Water weeping or dripping does not mean that the P&T valve is defective. As water is heated, it expands. The water system in a recreational vehicle is a closed system and does not allow for the expansion of heated water. When the pressure of the water system exceeds the relieving point of the P&T valve, the vale will relieve the excess pressure. One way to reduce the frequency of this occurrence is to maintain an air pocket at the top of the water heater tank. This air pocket will form in the tank by design - however, it will be reduced over time by the everyday use of your water heater. To replenish this air pocket: Turn off the water heater. Tturn off the cold water supply line. Open a faucet in the RV. Pull out the handle of the pressure relief (P&T) valve and allow water to flow from the valve until it stops. Release the handle on the P&T valve - it should snap closed. Close the faucet and turn on the cold water supply. As the tank fills, the air pocket will develop. Repeat this procedure as often as needed to reduce the frequency of the weeping P&T valve. If the weeping persists after following this procedure, you may elect to have your dealer install an expansion or accumulator tank in the cold water line between the tank and check valve to relieve the pressure caused by thermal expansion. Attila will go to DV, don't know about Terri as she just got a new job so may not be able to take the time off. I have no idea where to meet, I'll get the map out and look. What areas would you like to hit? I wouldn't mind conquering the trail that won last time. |
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| You may have enough room for normal driving but if you really make some radical move, like a fast curb or speed bump, or an emergency maneuver, you'd be surprised how much the bed can move in relation to the cab. Whamo! | |
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Thanks for the info. I don't mind the idea of using the thing, I just don't look forward to emptying it. But there are worse things in life. I came to the same conclusion as you regarding the model. If it will fit I'm going to buy Thetford's biggest model which does use an electric pump. One push and walk away. It also insures consistent wash downs rather than relying on how much someone is motivated to pump the bellows. |
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If you're using a Porta Pottie and travel to a higher elevation you have to be concerned about the pressure that builds up in the holding tank. Make sure you relieve the pressure in the Porta Potties tank before you relieve the pressure in your personal tank. Failure to do so can result in a rather unpleasant cleaning job. Don’t ask how I know. |
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| Good tip! Thanks. | |
| I had airbags on my last truck and they did a great job leveling my truck but it seemed to rock side to side more. I am trying to decide (if I trade campers) whether to go with them again or the Hellwig progressive helper springs. Any comments? | |
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Don't have the rocking side to side problem. I can see where that could happen, because the airbags are nearly friction free. It could be that your truck couldn't rock side to side without the airbags because it was near the bottom of the suspension, and that prevented more movement i.e. the rocking. And the airbags lifted the truck to allow the rocking. With a top heavy (hardside) camper, side to side rocking is frequently a problem. Anti-sway bars and extra heavy duty shocks help, but the real problem is the weight up high. Mike L |
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