Last post on Mar 19, 2004 at 8:54 AM
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Ford Ranger, Exterior, Tires, Engine, Interior, Transmission, Fuel Efficiency (MPG), Truck
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#683 of 1143 2002 EDGE Ranger...Is edmunds correct?
Nov 25, 2001 (1:33 am)
I see that edmunds has a 2002 Edge supercab 4x4 w/ a 3.0L manual 5spd. Cannot get this configuration on the Ford site. Do you think this is an error? I can only get a 4.0L option w/ the 4x4 supercab on the ford site. Also, does the Edge (4x4 supercab) HAVE to come with auto trans? thanks for replies. I would love to know if ANYONE out there has a new Edge or XLT with this setup.
Nov 25, 2001 (12:21 pm)
I know the 4.0 L only comes with an auto.
Nov 25, 2001 (8:59 pm)
jewels--->I use www.forddirect.com, and this site indeed lists a 3.0l 4x4 in Regular cab only. Don't know I'll look up the brochure and see if it's on there...
danny--->The 4.0l predominately comes with the 5 speed auto, yet the FX4 and this 4WD Supercab still carry the manual transmission.
mjbtrtr--->Probably didn't do much, but I wouldn't do that again... Besides you're gonna slow down pretty fast in neutral.
#686 of 1143 1994 Ford Ranger 4.0 / 5 speed /140000m
Nov 26, 2001 (1:37 pm)
For 2 yrs now this engine will not run at the proper temp. The temp gauge flags while driving, but
never overheats. The gauge stays on cold side. Have replaced thermo, the 2 sending units on
frt of intake manifold. Also when cold a/c air is on the air is blowing on my throttle foot. When
I,m saying flagging you watch the temp gauge go up and down while driving. Ray C.
Nov 26, 2001 (1:59 pm)
flushing the entire coolant system, radiator, pump. After that many years and miles there is no doubt some scale built up, and possibly some rust or just plain blockage. When I replaced my radiator last year, I swear the old one weighted at least twice as much as the new one, fully drained too. Also check the electric fan and be sure it's still functioning properly. I wouldn't be too worried because it's not overheating.
Nov 26, 2001 (8:24 pm)
thanks, i was really worried i broke something!
it seems to shift fine and no noises or anything. another question for you: my brother drives a 1989 F-150 and was stuck in some mud today. i hooked my ranger up to it with a rope, thinking that even though it wouldnt jerk it right out, it would certainly pull harder than i could by standing behind the truck and pushing with my body. so i put it in first gear and accelerated slowly, but the rope simply broke since the f-150 was buried. my question is, if the rope had held, and since my towing limit is 2,000 pounds, could i have hurt my tranny/engine? i would think so but i am curious. i want this truck to last a long while and if i keep this rate up who knows...lol
Nov 27, 2001 (6:57 am)
I'm no expert at this, but seems logical the engine wouldn't have been hurt, unless you were really bogging it down, and/or revving it high. The transmission probably would take any brunt of any damage, if it was a drawn out event. But the biggest problem was the weight of the F-150. With a couple of heavy duty tow straps, or maybe a winch you probably could of gotten his truck free. Best thing to do would of gotten another buddy with a truck and have both pull at the same time to share the weight(and not using a rope).
Maybe one of the off-road guys will come to this forum and can explain better.
Nov 27, 2001 (8:49 am)
maybe you can shed some light on this. i have often wondered how companies like Ford or Chevy manage their parts, in relation to their product line. for instance, it seems like a waste of money to create a new tranny for each engine. for instance, would my tranny on the 2.5 liter be the same on on the 3.0, which has a higher towing capacity? why wouldnt they just make one heavier one and let both engines share it? i understand that the 4.0 liter needs a heavier one, and also a 5-speed auto as opposed to a 4, but the others should be interchangeable, right?
Nov 27, 2001 (2:23 pm)
Basically it boils down to bell housing bolt patterns and torque ratings. I had a friend at a parts store who took a 5 speed, 4 cylinder mustand (1990ish) and put a 302 on it. The transmission was kept original. Last I know he was still running around town with no backseat, and loud ass mufflers and the common cheap bolt ons. The transmission survived,(unknown how long) but for the time I kept in contact it worked fine. I bet that trans and rear end were receiving major abuse, and doubt they would last over a couple of years, but it did work then. Automatics are a different story. They have different stall speeds, different gearing, that one would probably not want to swap those around.
Just don't forget that Ford can share parts with Mazda, Lincoln and Mercury, and even Land Rover, Aston Martin, and Jaguar. While those last three aren't as likely, the first ones are. This helps keep the cost down because that 3.0l transmission goes on many other vehicles across the whole Ford corporation. Vice versa, and same for most other engines/trans.
It would be nice if everyone was interchangable, but for the most part they just won't fit. I could probably rattle off a little something about late 60's bolt patterns, but haven't really had any experience with anything newer. Besides most automatics are computer controlled, it would be just too hard to make your own breed.
Why not just make them all heavy duty? Probably to keep prices down. By that mark I wish the 2.3l would be the 2.3l SV0 turbo motor from the earlier mustangs, but again, cost and power curve characteristics would probably not benefit the compact truck.
Also the 5 speed auto wasn't introduced because it was required, but more to help out gas milage with that extra final gear. Pretty cool that it is available, but I still prefer a stick in a truck.
Where's Modvptnl? He probably know more about this than me...
Nov 27, 2001 (4:08 pm)
i know this has been discussed before but i want to know specifics to the ranger so here goes. i have the 2.5 liter four cylinder. i want to get it to a total of 130 horsepower. its has 119 stock, and i added a K&N filter. will remvoing the snorkle/air silencer make it run better or have more power, and will it void my warranty? any other performance tips which can help?