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Pickups Pickups - Archived Discussions 2000 Dodge Ram - II 
322 messages, Last post on Aug 27, 2000 at 4:03 PM
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| I am thinking of buying a 2000 ram quad cab 2500 4x4 cummins diesel. I want to know if anyone out there knows about the brakes on these trucks. I was told they have poor brakes, only lasting about 10,000 miles for a set of pads. Is this true? | |
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I went to my friendly neighborhood Dodge dealer in Melbourne FL. today to order a 2000, 2500 QC 4x4 longbed sport and trade my Chevy. All was going well and got just about what I wanted for my trade had them start crunching the numbers. When I returned to finish the deal he said there was a couple issues about ordering the truck. He said that if he went ahead and ordered the truck, he wasn't sure if it would be a 2000 or 2001, and he had no pricing information for the 2001. As a result, he couldn't give me any definite numbers on the cost and what my payments would be since he couldn't know for sure which model year I would receive. Now I know what the cost should be for the 2000 and am willing to pay this, but the dealer doesn't even want to place my order because I told him if the increase in price was too much(which neither of us knows what that increase will be)it might kill the deal. I was ready to sign the dotted line and they basically told me that we would have to wait till the 2001's arrived.(How long could this be?) Does this sound rediculous to anyone else? The reason I'm mostly upset is this dealer is giving me the most for my trade thus far. Any suggestions on what to do and any info on the 2001's, and possible price increases? Thanx - Shane |
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All4rocks, I have not heard of any problems like that with brakes, I do not have 10,000 on my Y2K ram Cummins Sport yet, everyone I know with Rams does not have that problem, mostly problems with the old Getrag 5 spd tranny (to small). Shane, Is it really that hard to get 2500 & 3500 Rams in other parts of the country? My Sport was on the lot with two other Diesels when I bought it, the next town over had a Y2K 3500 QC 4x4 Cummins, 6 spd, for a short while on the lot (2 weeks) $39,000. |
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The dealer has two problems with making your deal. 1.) He doesn't know when the new truck will arrive. 2.) He doesn't know how much your trade will be worth at that time, assuming you plan to keep driving it. It's better to have him be honest with you that way, rather than for him to accept a big deposit that deters you from further shopping, and then misleads you into thinking you had a firm deal when he asks for more, just as the new one arrives. (It can happen.) |
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| I understand that delivery time is way up in the air, but I did explain to him we ( my fiance') were planning on trading my chevy today, and we would go on one vehicle for a couple of months.(til the new truck came in) Now I know thats a little risky, but in order to get what I want for the trade, its ok with me. Is it that he can't take my trade now or he just doesn't want to. He can sell it tomorrow for all I care. I think not knowing when the new one will come in is part of the process. | |
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It just doesn't seem realistic to me, that the dealer could take your trade early. Not saying it hasn't been done, but it seems complicated and risky for him, and problematic for you if he can't supply you the new truck you want. Why not just put a deposit down, order the truck you want, and either make the trade when the new one comes in, or get rid of it in a private sale before that time? |
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I do see your point, if he takes my trade and something does happen to blow the deal on the new truck and all he got out of it was my trade. But you could argue he is going to make money on the trade too, at least thats his intent. Well I sent out a letter to the owner explaining the dilemma and I got a phone call today from the salesman saying he was gonna go ahead and order the truck, no deposit either. Don't know if this is a result of the letter or their desire to make a sale. Thats the good part, but my vehicle is still in my drive  I'm affraid I won't get what I need for the trade come deal time if I can't sell it on my own. I guess we'll see!
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A dollar today is worth more than a dollar tomorrow. It sounds to me like your dealer is trying to be very fair, and win your business. That won't stop him from trying to make a buck off you, and every other customer, so don't count the profit motive against him. Just be aware of it, and negotiate to your best advantage. Make it easier for him to sell you a car, and you will get a better deal. If he is willing to order your truck with no deposit, he sees no risk if your deal falls through. That's good. Expect surprises. The deal is not final until you sign a buyers contract with a VIN number on it. Keep in mind that until then, anything you and he agreed to previously can change without notice. Usually it doesn't happen this way, but you are under no obligation to buy if he does. By all means, advertise your trade in the paper and try to make a sale to a private party. Almost any offer you can accept is better than what a dealer will offer you in trade. And since your new vehicle is going to take a few weeks, you have the time so get started. The less complicated you make it, the better your chance. Do these things: 1.) Get yourself pre-qualified for financing at your bank or credit union. 2.) Get your trade sold beforehand. 3.) Find out if there are incentives, rebates, financing, cash back etc. 4.) Set a target price for the new truck. 5.) Be realistic, and prepared for a little give and take. 6.) Listen to offers on financing. If the dealer financing is 3.9%, and your credit union is 8.9%, there is probably some factory cash that you have to sign over to him to get the low interest rate. Often, it's better to apply the factory cash against your down payment instead, and pay the higher bank interest rate. 7.) The deal isn't over just because you shook on it. Your salesman now sends you to the finance guru's office, where they try to get you to buy extended warrantys, undercoating, paint sealants, fabric protection, etc. Listen carefully, be polite, and then decline them all. Pure profit to a dealer. The art of a deal: Remember, the dealer does this for a living. He is prepared for you, and doesn't make mistakes. There is a reason why there is NEVER a calculator to be found, for your use, on the desk of the salesman. You have to know your numbers, and see through the smoke screen. Good Luck! |
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| Just called the 800 number and my truck is still BX status. No dealer allocation is available. It was ordered 9/14. Two or three weeks ago the salesmanager assured me he had contacted the regional sales office in KC to get me taken care of. But I've had holds for a variety of reasons including paint and now I'm back to no dealer allocation. While in hold the gal I talked to on the 800 number tried to get hold of the salesmanager but got the business manager who told her he would speak to the salesmanager for me. ..... On another topic. A Chevy dealer I have dealt with in the past did take trade-ins at time of order so he could be assured of its value. ...... Another issue on my deal. The back of the contract says the dealership has the right to reappraise my tradin at delivery. Since I'm sure they knew they had no allocation for me when they took my deal I'm concerned they may want to renegotiate my price IF my truck ever arrives. Yet they must have known my truck would not arrive when they promised. .... Rich | |
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Has anyone heard anything else on the 2001`s coming out in January. I have a 2000 2500 quad V10 on order and am hoping for a rebate on the 2000`s. Rebates change Monday(12/13). I do have the on the job incentive($300)I live in Oklahoma and the Okla. dealers don`t honor the Chrysler ext.warrenty. Also the Okla. dealers don`t honor the Farm Bureau incentive. If I would have known this I would have bought the truck in Kansas. By the way, I have had good experience with ordering the truck. It was ordered on 10/23 and was shipped on 10/6 and the dealer is suppose to have it the week of 12/13. |
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