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6484 messages, Last post on Oct 23, 2006 at 1:39 AM
You are in the Honda Odyssey Forum. Your Host is Karens
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Here's the new place to continue seeking Town Hall members' advice/support for Honda Odyssey problems. For links to past discussions, please see Honda Odyssey Links. Thanks! KarenS Vans host |
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Hi everybody, I had lost one of my remote keyless entry for my EX. Do anybody know how much is the replacement cost? Do I had to bring my van and the other remote entry to the Honda dealer so they can reprogram the new remote keyless entry? Thanks.
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To dylanrn10.. [and others with similar problems]: Do You have a LX or an EX? You probably know what you meant to say, but did not say so. There is no 'defroster' for the front windshield. There is only a "defogger". Defroster is at the back only (cross wires on glass). LX - you have to control the heat level and fan speed manually. EX - (if you have it) you probably have already set a comfortable heat level, and based on the temperature within the vehicle (as reported to PCM via temperature sensor on steering column) fan will, on full automatic, revolve correspondingly. To override, you must use the fan speed dial, to your preference. Everyone knows that fogging is caused by moisture breathed out by people entering the vehicle on a cold day, and/or atmospheric moisture entering vehicle when doors are opened. Made worse by us trying to heat up the vehicle faster by pressing 'recir' button (which is not incorrect, though). Defogger essentially routes in air, heated, via the heater core. Enough heat evaporates the moisture/fog within the vehicle. The trick to quick defogging is using the a/c, since the a/c works as a de-humidifier as well. On EX, pressing the defogger button does three things automatically. Air is directed fully towards the windshield plus the front door panel vents to clear the side glasses, a/c will come on automatically and last, fresh air is drawn into the vehicle (recir light will go off, if it was on). If you have a crowd of excitable party kids in the vehicle pouring out lots of moisture, you can (initially) leave the rest of the system on automatic, but manually override the fan speed to a more slower and silent level. If you have LX and your fan speed does not increase with each increment of the switch upto max speed, then your fan speed switch has failed. If your defog button does not direct 95% air to the windshield, then your vent control module has failied. These items will have to be replaced by dealer. If you have LX and defog button and heat level are set, to aid defogging, press a/c switch to on till everything clears. Once the vehicle is warmed up and you use other switches (front vents or feet) to re-route warmed air, cycling the a/c once in a while will remove any built up moisture. Remeber that in any air vent position, some air is always directed towards the front windscreen. If yours is EX and, in full auto, if the fan does not increase in speed as you dial in temperature, then your fan speed potentiometer has failed. This needs to be changed. Note that fan speed is tied into temperature control. If you constantly keep the temperature control on high, you are going to have high fan speed unless you override it manually. (Same thing in hot weather with a/c. The colder you want the vehicle, the higher the fan will run. Dial in temp closer to ambient and the fan speed slows down). Check everything out. If you need more diagnostics, post your findings. Thank God your dealer did not design this vehicle; you might have to drive looking out of your side windows. Good luck and careful driving. |
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To Reposer... and others with this problem: I have not tested the '01 but found out something strange with the '99. ALWAYS leave the cabin lights control switch (full on/door-open on/full off) in the same position when opening and closing your sliding doors. WHY?? Once, with the switch off, I opened the right slider. I then put the switch into door-open position. When I closed the slider, it would try to close, beep, retract half inch, stop beeping and not close fully. You can see the gap front and back of door. Thought I had another problem on my hands. Actually left door that way to attend to some urgent work. On returning sat and re-though my actions when closing the door. Suddenly struck me that I changed the switch position. I opened the door. Put switch back to 'off' and walla, the door just slid into place like nothing had happened. Your problem Reposer, in my opinion, needs to go back to the dealer. But before that; how many times does this happen, what frequency, intermittent or continuously for a period of time? Next, just make sure no grime is preventing the control cylinders from moving freely. These are on the inside of the door and make contact on the frame. Note that these are contact switches. By looking at the 'knock' point on receiving edges you or the dealer should be able to verify if they are in alignment. I am of the opinion that your contact assembly is not properly aligned. Cannot imagine it being identical on both sides, but your post does not mention if the exact same thing happens with both doors at the same time. Or, if it is with both the doors or just one door. Again, be patient and persistent. Dealer services are scared to go near anything electronic. They try brushing it off. They will stall you, waiting for the regional tech to make his monthly visit. Your situation also tells me a trouble code could be set, so have the dealer extract it (if that one or others exist in the PCM). The doors fully closing is good. Beep going off and not coming on again when switch turned on means the PCM could/is emulating 'fail safe mode'. Chances are the door is not likely to open by itself and anyway, it is deactivated when the vehicle is taken out of Park. If you are concerned with driving the vehicle till you see the dealer, a second safeguard is to lock all doors when driving. That prevents the unlatch mechanism from cycling. Get it seen to and fixed as soon as you can. Post your results. Till then, safe driving. |
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| Just bought a new 01 EX. Is there a way to open the power doors with the van in gear? Seems the only way to open them is when the van is in 'Park'. I tried to let my kids hop out of the ODY in front of store...avoiding the hassle of parking. Had to throw it in 'park' for them to get out. Not a big deal...but will take some getting used to! Thanks | |
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You are correct. The only way to open the power sliders is to have the van in park. That is a safety feature. It is probably a good idea to have the vehicle in park when people (especially kids) are getting out in case your foot slips off the brake. I seem to remember that a while back, someone proposed changing the wiring for the doors to permit them to open while the vehicle was in gear but not in motion. Also seem to remember much debate as to whether that modification was wise. |
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How does 2001 Odyssey compare with your 1999 so far? Appreciate your detailed explanations in past postings. Did i understand correctly that you traded 99 for an 01? |
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Regarding discussion of break in periods for vehicles. I took a really conservative approach with my Ody and used the Toyota break-in method, which is similar to Honda but with the added stipulation that the speed should be kept under 55 mph for the first 1,000 miles. Possibly overkill, but Toyota is known for reliability, and mine have amazingly good. Not real easy to do on the highway though. Interestingly, I once asked the manager of the Toyota engine factory in KY how he would break in an engine, and he said "I just drive 'em without worrying about it". Not the answer I was expecting. Also, somewhere I heard that Mercedes-Benz does, or used to maybe, tell owners to change the AT fluid after the first 1,000 miles. The break in period supposedly puts a lot of fine metal particles in the fluid and should be removed. Important? Who knows. I do it to be on the safe side. To get most of it out, I drain it, fill it, drive it, three times. When I saw what was on the magnetic drain plug--basically a lot of fine metal--sort of a mud, I felt like it was a good thing to get that out of the transmission. I also put the Honda trans cooler on my van. It's not really a difficult job, although a little scarey taking the bumper cover off. I think the dealers only charge about an hour labor to do the job. The transmission gets so hot under normal use, I'm guessing that going over mountains, and/or driving a heavily loaded vehicle makes it even hotter. These vans are heavy to begin with, so I want that transmission to stay in normal temp range. Toyota puts a trans cooler on virtually all their Sienna LEs, so once again I took their approach. |
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| I have a 2001 Odyssey LX for a month now. Couple days ago, I sat on the 3rd row bench seat while my wife was driving, the seat back came out with noise and sound like the spring inside the seat back is lose and broken. Did anyone in this forum has any exprience on similar problem? Any info is highly appreciated. | |
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For the past few years, all MB vehicles have had automatic transmissions that require no fluid changes...ever! The stuff that is in there is designed to last for life under a variety of extreme conditions. Even the oil change interval in MBz vehicles from MY1998 onwards is extended from a minimum of 10K miles to a maximum of 20K miles; there is a computer monitoring a variety of parameters (engine load, driving style, temperature, oil qualtiy/viscosity etc.) and will adjust the flexible service system counter as needed. Drew/aling Townhall Community Leader/Vans Conference |
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