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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Honda Odyssey Prices Paid and Buying Experience
24381 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 9:37 AM
You are in the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum. Your Hosts are car_man & kyfdx
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Replying to: tweet651983 (Apr 17, 2005 7:21 am) You might start at $24,000 and see where they go from there. Be patient. There are not a lot of buyers like yourself that are willing to buy a 2 year old car at a new car price. The honda dealer network is huge and if there were other buyers out there they would have been long gone by now. Good luck!! I have two friends with '04s and they really like them. |
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Replying to: tweet651983 (Apr 17, 2005 7:21 am) If I remember correctly, '04's were selling for $1,000 under invoice around the time the '05 model was introduced--and that was nine months ago. You should be able to do much better than that now. Offer him $22,500. Sounds like this dealer wants to hold on to these two vans until they qualify for classic plates.....
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Replying to: heywood1 (Apr 17, 2005 4:26 pm) I paid $6,800 cash today for a 2000 Honda Odyssey with 107k. It drove nice and was a 1 owner vehicle. Guy was very nice and he bought it at a local dealer in 2000. I wish it could have been under 100k for tranny warranty but the tranny seems fine and I immediately did a complete tranny fluid exchange on it. Kelly Blue Book private party value was $9,600 so I did good I think. I love avoiding the ripoff $599 dealer fees just to buy a car from the crooks. best of all no car payment. |
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Replying to: tom25 (Apr 15, 2005 7:43 pm) First, for this $35,000 van, I paid just over $30,000 which was below their invoice went into their holdback, plus gave them nothing for their ADM (added dealer markup/appearance package/undercoating/whatever you want to call it). I was actually surprised I was able to do this on a premium vehicle like the Odyssey with Nav. Those nav, or RN's as the Honda dealerships call them, are vehicles which they don't have to mark down because they will sell regardless. But one has to read the market if they wan to get a good deal on such a vehicle. The weather Saturday was absolutely gorgeous here in Mobile, and there were few people out buying cars. Everyone was in their yard or at the beach/elsewhere. Every dealership we wen to was dead, and the Honda Dealership, a very reputable one too, was empty. I was the last deal of the day and it was the 4th car they sold (I would estimate that a dealership like this could easily sell 40-50 cars on a Saturday). You have to read the day, or be willing to wait. I had a friend make an offer (has to be within tolerances now like ~invoice) and being it was not a bad day, left without buying. 3 weeks later she got a call, when they were having a horrible Saturday, and bought at the price she left over 3 weeks before. About scams, tricks, etc. There are still many dealerships who play dirty. If you find you are at one - leave immediately. It is not worth it. There are a few good ones in every town, and just limit yourself to them. One very good sign to leave is the process seaming lethargic. Thats an indicator of one of two things, if not both. They are stalling you on purpose because statistically you are more likely to buy something the more "time" you have invested in it. Or, it might be that they are just really really busy, which means they don't have to make a great deal for you. Remember, the salesmen are to build value in them, the dealer, and the car. But it's the sales manager who lets it go too cheap. If they are selling 100 cars that day, why give one away to you? The business is like any commissioned sales, but because the salesmen's commission is so heavily dependant on the profit, not the overall cost, it's inherently sleezy. The salesman's job is to get you to emotionally connected to the purchase so that he/she can keep the price (his profit) as high as possible. Extremely few people (and I am not one of them) do not buy new cars without emotion playing a big part. This is ok, but it cannot be the captain of your decision making or you will be screwed. Don't mention your trade (dont bring it) until you've bargained your best price. It is the only way to know the ACV (actual cash value).* Also, they'll NEVER have your keys during bargaining, and you will HAVE to leave the environment and return with the trade. This forces a situation of being able to think about the purchase away from the dealership. *First, the dealership will *NEVER* pay you a lot for your trade. If it is not worth a grand or two to sell your own car, trade it in, but don't trade it expecting a lot. No matter how much you trade it for on paper, the ACV is what it is, and it won't be as much as you'd like it to be. Most people who this they did well on their trade have no idea what the true ACV on it was. Now, if your familiar with what your ACV is already, you can wait for your final bargaining when you bring in the trade, but always get a price before leaving, even if it is not heavily bargained for. Oftentimes if a person is clearly leaving no matter what, the sales manager will through out a no profit price (but not usually on a premium vehicle - an accord or civic usually in the case of a Honda dealership) just so that the next dealership will scoff at the number you start off with and tell you to go back where you came from, or they don't make any money either. Why would the 1st dealer want you to come back in this case? Because if you did, there is a 90% chance you'll buy from them, and at more than the price they quoted you. I have a ton more thoughts on the subject - but I have spent too much time on the email as it is. I hope this helps someone.
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Replying to: imapeach (Apr 18, 2005 7:17 am) You wouldn't fool me or most veterans with your "hidden trade" either. We can smell one everytime. Hidden or not, the value doesn't change.
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Replying to: isellhondas (Apr 18, 2005 8:43 am) I'm going to meet a dealer tonight. I'm probably going to trade my '02 Tahoe (tax savings are significant) and based on values I've researched my number is around $10,000. That should leave about $500-$700 on the table above invoice depending how they work it. I'm not going to drive a couple hours to save that money where I know I can buy for invoice with some haggling. I have a relationship with these guys and their service is good, facility is convenient. They window price the Odyssey at $1,000 over invoice so it shouldn't be a big deal. Last time I bought a Toyota from them (toyota/honda dealer) it was $200 over invoice without any effort. Works for me, my time's more valuable than that to avoid driving to some big-city pain-in-the-neck dealer.
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Replying to: sebring95 (Apr 18, 2005 8:53 am) What's your point? What stone is this dealership under so everyone can get a hassle-free deal?
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Replying to: b_rad (Apr 18, 2005 9:13 am) Besides, the jist of my post was dealing with how to handle trades. I've bought/sold over 30 new vehicles in the last 10 years between personal/business and thought my experience might be valuable to someone. With that much experience, I generally know where the good dealers are. I'll post the dealer I'm buying from after I complete the transaction in case anyone else wants to learn of a good dealership (assuming nothings changed in the last year). If it didn't help you, why bother wasting your time responding??
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Replying to: sebring95 (Apr 18, 2005 10:10 am) kirstie_h Roving Host Host, Future Vehicles & Smart Shopper discussions |
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Picked up my Odyssey today at a Charlotte area dealer. $31,506 + tax/title and a processing fee of $359. Note that I ordered this pre-price increase.
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