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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Honda Odyssey Prices Paid and Buying Experience
24372 messages, Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 11:31 AM
You are in the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum. Your Hosts are car_man & kyfdx
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Replying to: siggie1 (Nov 20, 2007 6:09 pm) After you get your quotes, take the lowest and go back to the others that produced higher numbers to see if they'll match/beat. When you get down to the final few dealers, now's the time to make a few calls, toss out a lower number, see if they will bite, etc. I do contend that if you start calling back the clowns that ask you to call for an appointment without providing any quotation, your going to be wasting your time. I also can't stress enough that whatever is discussed/committed to, that you get them to send it to you in writing, print and bring it with you. Error on the side of conservation and document every detail. I personally haven't leased a vehicle, but would be really surprised if honda's "advertised" specials are the best price you can get. Just talking about 'lopping' $40 off or whatever per month usually isn't going to cut it, unless you negotiate a purchase price and then work back into the monthly payment/terms. Regarding phone contact, all I'm suggesting is that they don't need your phone number and you don't need to start pounding the phones out of the box. Get some quotes, work them online then make a few calls for final details and "best and final" offers. But then get it in writing. BTW, I have zero ties with capital one or costco. I like someone's suggestion about getting a check from a credit union to purchase the vehicle and then tell the dealer you have 5.25 from the credit union. You typically won't find money for 5.25 from anyone online, but a credit union is very possible. The bottom line is that you must get preapproved and have a check with a rate you can live with if the dealer doesnt match or better. I agree that your best chances of getting below 5.25 is credit union route.
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Replying to: hepdoc (Nov 20, 2007 2:33 pm) PAX tires cost twice as much to replace ($1200), service locations are limited (mostly at Honda dealers), and you usually have to wait for the dealer to order them (3-7 days). Many PAX owners complain of shorter tread wear--I only got 35k miles on mine and I'm religious about tire rotations and pressure checks. On the bright side, you won't have to stop in the ghetto to change a tire. Another positive note--the sidewalls on these things are almost indestructible--never got curb rash because of the thick ring that protrudes from the sidewall. I bought my 06 Touring in the southwest--bad idea. No dealers for hundreds of miles when we traveled. Thankfully, we never had a tire failure out in the desert. I bought my 07 Touring in VA. Now that I drive entirely on the east coast in urban areas, the PAX system makes sense--more dealers and more alternative modes of travel if I need to leave the van. |
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Replying to: donkeypunch1 (Nov 20, 2007 7:57 am)
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After several emails to several dealers, the least quote of 2007 Odyssey EX is $23,900 (base + destination charges). I didn’t negotiate yet. How far can I go to get the car?
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Replying to: ckennedy (Nov 20, 2007 8:22 pm)
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Replying to: austinsfs (Nov 21, 2007 4:49 am) |
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Replying to: donkeypunch1 (Nov 20, 2007 7:21 pm) I'm fully in agreement with you that once you leave the test drive phase and have started the acquisition phase you don't want to go anywhere near a dealership until you have a finalized deal in writing. My phone contact with dealers usually occurred because I did not get a response to my request for quote. Once I started making calls I found it easier to get information, especially about leases, than I did via email. For some reason, maybe it is just human nature, sales people were more willing to give me information while we were on the phone than they were via email. For example, a couple of dealers I called because they did not respond to my request for quote gave me a lease quote while we were on the phone. I know that the way they do that is through a computer system, so while we're on the phone I ask about things that are being displayed right in front of them such as the capitalized cost, the money factor, the residual, and the holdback. Every one of the dealers I talked to on the phone gave me that information without hesitation, while some dealers I was communicating with via email would not give that information even after numerous requests. Once I had the information it was quite easy to tell the dealer that the numbers sounded good, or not - and can you improve them - and please send me the quote via email. While it might seem like a good idea when negotiating a lease to first negotiate the sales price (capitalized cost), the problem with that is that it is only half of the equation. The lowest capitalized cost may not always get you the lowest lease payment because dealers can play with the money factor (basically the interest rate). A couple of dealers told me that on a normal lease Honda does not require dealers to offer the best money factor. The dealer can mark it up over and above what AHFC is offering. However, they also told me that on a lease special Honda does require the dealer to offer the special's money factor and no higher. I hope that is true. As for the Honda lease special, I agree that the X dollars per month on a particular vehicle with Y dollars due at inception that is advertised may not be best deal available. However, those lease specials are not just for the advertised model. They apply across the board to all the Odyssey models. So, a lease you negotiate on a different model (e.g. Touring) gets the same money factor as the advertised special (e.g. LX). Again, that's something I didn't know that I learned by talking to the dealers. As for confusing the numbers, it is not only consumers who can get confused. This is from an email I received from a Palm Beach county dealer (this is verbatim - the all-capitals format was in the original): THE DOWN PAYMENTS REPRESENT FIRST PAYMENT, TAGS, AND BANK FEES. IN REGARD TO ALL THE OTHER FACTORS, I DON'T HAVE THAT INFORMATION, OR REALLY EVEN UNDERSTAND THOSE THINGS, ALL I KNOW IS THAT FOR EVERY THOUSAND, GIVE OR TAKE THE PAYMENTS GO UP OR DOWN APPROXIMATELY $28.oo . MY SPECIALITY IS PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE OF THE VEHICLES THAT I SELL. IF I PROVIDE YOU WITH THE BEST PRICE, AND YOU ARE INTERESTED. PLEASE COME ON IN, AND SEE THE VEHICLE THAT WE HAVE IN STOCK. ALL THOSE MONEY FACTORS, RESIDUALS, AND EVERY OTHER QUESTIONS CAN BE ANSWERED BY MY MANAGER, WHO GIVES US LEASE PRICE QUOTES, AND HE WILL BE HAPPY TO PERSONALLY ANSWER ALL YOUR QUESTIONS. When you are negotiating a lease what you want from the dealer is the Dealer Disclosure form. It is the printout of the AHFC lease system. If they don't offer it, ask for it - many dealers will not send it because it contains information they don't want you to know. For whatever reason, multiple dealers did sent it to me. It gives detailed information in these categories: Money Due at Inception Payment Information Profit Rate Information Residual Information Capitalized Cost Breakdown Tax Breakdown Mileage Information Trade Information Maximum Advance Information Miscellaneous Information Fee Breakdown With that information, if you can get it, you should be fully armed to negotiate. "> |
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Replying to: enp14 (Nov 19, 2007 2:48 pm) |
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Replying to: ckennedy (Nov 20, 2007 8:22 pm) |
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anyone to confirm? thanks.
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