Last post on Nov 07, 2013 at 3:04 PM
You are in the Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Grand Caravan
What is this discussion about?
Chrysler Town and Country, Dodge Caravan, Plymouth Voyager, Chrysler Grand Voyager, Dodge Grand Caravan, Transmission, Van
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#982 of 2083 Re: 2000 Dodge Caravan 3.0l transmission code P0755 and engine stalls after 7km [frankabbinett]
Dec 11, 2005 (6:30 am)
My tranny did that once. Yours is stuck in fail safe or drive it home mode. There is a sensor right below the exhaust manifold near the tranny that has probably failed. It is a speed sensor. Cheap and easy to install. Turn your ignition key on and off three times and then on. Watch the engine light flash and count the sequences. It will tell you if you have a code. I check mine monthly on my 96 GC.
#983 of 2083 2000 Caravan trans spins up and won't move
Dec 17, 2005 (3:18 pm)
I have a 2000 Caravan V6 with 65K on it. Bought it new. It is full of ATF. The color is good as is the smell. I was entering the freeway in normal traffic and normal acceleration. The van suddenly stopped accelerating and slowed to a stop. After checking the usual things I tried to get it to move again. It would move only a few feet fwd and then stop. I tried rev and it moved a little better but not right. In park or neutral it makes no noise. In drive I can hear what sounds like stripped shaft splines. It doesn't make the same kind of noise bad clutches make. Spinning up and then engaging when the servo has enough pressure to lock them up. It is a metal to metal whirring sound. The parking pawl engages and holds fast.
After getting it up in the air, I pinned the sound down to the diff. Here is my question. Can I remove the drive axles with out getting into the diff. As I am doing this on my back I would like to make this as EZ as possible on myself.
Also has anyone had this problem before. And if so what was your fix.
I have some 20 yrs experience as a heavy line mechanic in Ford stores, but very little about FWD's. Thanks in adavance for your help and time, John
#984 of 2083 Re: 2000 Caravan trans spins up and won't move [azgambler46]
Dec 20, 2005 (3:09 pm)
Last winter I got stuck in frozen ice/snow and after some creative over revving and tire spinning I got free. Shortly after that I developed a leak. My tranny guy could'nt figure out where it was leaking so he called around and found out I had probably tore up the differential. He had to remove the tranny to get to it although I am not sure if that is necessary. Sure enough the shaft that holds the spider gears was enbedded into the ring gear. The metal shavings got into the drain hole and the differential ran over causing the leak. It never made a sound or any noise that I remember. You can exchange the gear cluster for a rebuilt one. I think it is under $200.
#985 of 2083 Re: 2005 Grand Caravan Engine Surge / Lunge [tamstertime]
Dec 20, 2005 (4:45 pm)
This problem sounds familiar to our 1996 Sebring Convertible...All I know is we immediately traded in that one year old car, and the trade-in value got us a Civic...kinda sad to go from a big convertible to a Civic, but the Civic didn't leave us stranded, so it's all about priorities I guess.
#986 of 2083 Re: 96 town and country stalled at light [mclaughlin]
Dec 23, 2005 (11:48 am)
Wow, does this sound familiar. Started in Aug '05 for us. Randomly dies - sometimes stops while moving slowly, sometimes at traffic lights. Immediate restart - nothing; dead like there is no power (but lights, radio work). Wait 30-60 seconds, starts up like nothing is wrong. Had it into the shop 5x. Many computer checks, tuneups and the like. $1000 later, new computer, all engine sensors replaced, still doing it. We've given up fixing it and simply wait it out when it happens and restart.
Today (12/23), my son called to tell me the engine is racing. Tranny has always been a bit sloppy with sudden lurches and clunks. Sounds like automatic tranny belt is slipping. We'll see - of course it is on Christmas weekend.
Merry Christmas one and all.
#987 of 2083 2001 T&C Engine light ON problem
Dec 27, 2005 (7:19 pm)
My T&C which I bought certified used from a dealer has 56000 miles and has a 8/80000 miles power train warranty.
Since yesterday i am seeing that the engine light is ON.
Van has no problem in running. Also recently I have observed that while driving on Hwy the gear shift from 'D' to 'N' few times in couple of months. so what should i do now. Is this could be a sign of tranny going bad or may be bad fuel. I hope my warranty should covers it if something happens to my tranny. I went to the dealer and they were giving me an appointment for next week. Someone says I can go to Autozone to get the code free for engine light is that true.
#988 of 2083 Re: 2001 T&C Engine light ON problem [freshwater]
Dec 27, 2005 (9:38 pm)
Regarding the engine light, the only times either of our GCs (or either of my BMWs for that matter) have displayed that light was when the gas cap wasn't properly tightened after fueling. Check your gas cap, if it is cocked and/or not tight (cap clicks when turned after it is tight enough), it will take as much as another tank of fuel before the light will go out by itself.
In our case, once we moved out of New Jersey (where it was illegal to pump your own gas), our engine light problems went away.
#989 of 2083 Re: 2001 T&C Engine light ON problem [shipo]
Dec 27, 2005 (10:05 pm)
I thought of that and already check the cap for tightness.
Still need to drive more to finish the fuel in the tank.
#990 of 2083 Re: 2001 T&C Engine light ON problem [freshwater]
Dec 28, 2005 (10:33 am)
We have a 01 DGC EX and needed a new gas cap at around 50K. (The seal was bad). We bought ours used too. I did not notice the gear selector switching back and forth from D to N during the week our check engine light was on.
#991 of 2083 Not a problem per se...
Jan 05, 2006 (9:48 am)
A weird observation about the transmission on our 1998 3.8 GC...
The company that is now my main client has recently moved their offices to a building that has its parking lot right at the entrance ramp to the freeway that I travel to and from home. Given the close proximity of the ramp to where I park, I'm usually up to 70 and on Cruise Control within a minute and a half of engine start, which is obviously long before the innards of my engine and transmission have warmed up to operating temperature. With this in mind, I make very sure that I never exceed 3,000 rpms during my climb up the ramp and up to speed, and as such I'm not at all worried about damaging anything.
What is weird is that once the CC is engaged, the engine settles in at around 2,600 rpms at about 71 mph, and stays there for maybe four or five miles before the torque converter apparently locks up and drops the rpms down to its more normal 2,200 revs.
Given that this is the first Automatic transmission equipped vehicle I've commuted with since 1975, I find this behavior strange. Do y'all suppose the transmission control unit is programmed to prevent lock-up until everything is warmed up or could the initial failure to lock-up simply have to do with the wider open throttle position that always comes with a cold engine at any given load?
Do any of y'all have any thoughts on this?