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Chrysler Minivan Transmission Problems

1833 messages, Last post on Nov 10, 2009 at 3:54 AM
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Replying to: twocycle2 (May 06, 2007 10:54 am) Best Regards, Shipo
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Replying to: shipo (May 07, 2007 3:11 am)
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Replying to: playtime (May 07, 2007 6:57 pm) And yet here we are, some eighteen model years or so since the 41TE was released, and if you go to Jiffy Boob or Pep Boyz and have your tranny serviced, they will insist on using Dextron in combination with some kind of a magic elixir to make it okay to use in the 41TE. I guess it isn't at all surprising that there are still transmissions out there failing due to the incorrect fluid. Annoying. As for why to use it the synthetic ATF+4, I don't believe that winter has anything to do with it. Automatic transmissions get HOT due to the constant shearing going on inside (primarily in the torque converter), and synthetic tranny fluid deals with the heat WAY better than semi-synthetic or conventional ATF. Oh, that an as of the 2000 model year virtually all Chrysler automatic transmissions were designed and built specifically for that fluid and its very specific coefficient of friction. Regarding synthetic engine oil, well, I'm one of those that never bought the company line anyway. I converted our 1998 DGC Sport 3.8 to Mobil 1 (currently using 0W-40) at the second oil change, and I switched our 2003 DGC ES 3.8 over at the first. Warranty or no, I then went to 10,000 mile OCIs (supported by UOAs of course), and now, with a combined 230,000 miles on the two vans, their engines are as robust and spotlessly clean (on the inside anyway) as they were the day they left the factory. Best Regards, Shipo |
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We just bought this car (used w/ 26k miles - the smaller engine version) and as we drove it off the lot experienced transmission problems. Thankfully, the dealership has agreed to "find and correct" the problem. However, they have tried 2 times with no results. It is back in the shop (for a third try) and I was wondering if any of you have experienced similar problems and if you could help give a diagnosis. Our desperation for a working car is growing fast as I am expecting our second child in the next 6 weeks. Please help Problem: It refuses to change gears (seems stuck in second) when accelerating/decelerating (most commonly in highway entrance ramps, but has also happened leaving the grocery store). When this happens all of the gear indicator lights have those boxes around them. This is sporadic - we did not notice it during the test drive when we purchased it. The dealership has replaced "electrical control modules" - to no avail. Any ideas? |
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Replying to: shipo (Feb 08, 2007 4:37 am)
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Replying to: rasilla24 (May 08, 2007 12:24 pm) One of the problems with electronic problems (especially with a used car) is that you almost never know going in where the problem might lay. Was the van in an accident? Did the previous owner mess something up trying to add a modification? Is there a bad wiring harness? Is the Transmission Control Module (TCM) somehow hammered (apparently not as it is an odds-on bet that that was the first thing your dealer replaced)? Is the power supply to the TCM clean? Are all of the sensors inside the transmission, and the sensors that report on engine operation, throttle position, vehicle speed, gear selection and a whole host of other conditions, reporting the proper metrics? At this point, were I in your shoes I'd be losing confidence quite quickly in your dealer and be looking to reverse the transaction. Said another way, it's time to start asking for your money back, possibly with the help of a lawyer. Best Regards, Shipo |
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| I might have missed it some where in the forum under transmissions but I will comment anyway just in case. If your having any type of engine problems "such as rough idling - hard starting engine - engine lacking power compared as compared to previously engine running good" can also effect the transmissions operation. If the engine is lacking power for instance the transmission will try to make up for this by shifting at different speeds - down shifting rougher etc. The reason being is the computor thinks the engine is working harder and the computor will send signals to the trans letting it know it needs to shift for power now. Example I am sure everyone has noticed if you have a full loaded van the engine has to work harder to get the van up to speed well the transmission works differently by later shifting and down shifting to a gear meant for power sooner. Point being if the engine needs a tune up this also can effect the transmissions operation just like towing a trailer does. This is why some vehicals had a switch "like General Motors Vehicals-some of them" that you while towing there is a switch to engage the that changes the shift points to give the engine a helping hand under a load. Do not always assume your transmission is at fault when it could also be an engine issue even a bad tank of fuel can cause systems that will cause the computor to retard or advance the timing. Good example would be to pull a spark plug wire off and then try driving your van this would give you a great idea of what the engines performance has on the transmissions operation "but do not pull a spark plug wire off I was just using this as an example thats all". If your engine has a vacuum leak it can also cause the engine and transmission to operate some what differently under some conditions. So lets not forget that things also need to be checked in some cases with how the engine is operating also such as over heating. You should even notice a change in the operation of the transmission while using the ac because of the amount of horse power the compressor needs to operated. I hope this helps those that are having both transmission and engine problems so that you do not right away assume its the transmission - when it might be the engine having a negative effect on the trans. Cheers to all-Jack playtime | |
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Hello. I am a new poster, so bear with me. I've read MANY of the 1300+ posts in this discussion hoping to find an answer to my question, but am more confused than ever. Most everyone has a shifting problem, which isn't really rellevent, per se. We had a new/rebuilt transmission installed two years and 40,000 miles ago at 100,000 miles. For a couple of months we have had a slow leak of tranny fluid, for which we've added a little bit here and there, but have had no problems otherwise. Then two days ago I checked the fluid and found it was a bit low again, so I added fluid, drove about 15 miles and stopped at the in-laws and turned off the engine. I was only sitting there about five minutes, so I was suprised to see drips on the cement as I pulled away. I got out, left the engine running, and called my husband to get his input. As I was talking, I leaned down to have another look and to my horror, fluid was not just dripping, but there was a steady stream! I then drove it to the nearest auto shop (without any shifting problems, though I didn't drive very fast). He says one seal is gone and the other is leaking for no apparent reason and I have to take it to a transmission place and have the tranny rebuilt AGAIN. I just have a hard time believing that there isn't a simpler fix for the leak than another rebuild. Anyone out there had any such experience? Oh, and I was particularly interested in Shipo's theory about the ATF+4, as that is the fluid I added just before my seal disappeared! We have four little ones, and as work is all but non-existent in Northern Michigan, $2500 or more is hopefully not our only option!
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Replying to: beanandsean (May 16, 2007 5:26 am) |
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Replying to: pvowner (Jun 07, 2005 1:44 pm) |
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