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Vans & Minivans Mazda MPV Mazda MPV
8192 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 7:01 PM
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I had my Mazda MPV in for service in June. Had always used Mazda dealer for all services. As of now it has 47,000+ miles. At end of July, brought it in to non-Mazda service station for a flat tire. When I went to start car after tire repair, it wouldn't start. Service station checked and found that one of the battery cables and what holds it onto the battery had disintegrated. Was told that because Mazda, in it's mysterious wisdom had chosen to make it all one piece, it would be a big job to replace and the part would cost me $1,000.00. I immediately called my dealer, who proceeded to advise me, that they had been sold, a week before, and the new owners had stopped selling and servicing mazdas (the second time this has happened since I bought my MPV in June of 2003), so that there was nothing they could do for me. Also, that my warranty had run out at the end of June. I called Mazda of North America, and they refused to do anything for me, not even allowing me the courtesy to let me pay to extend my warranty. My new service station said they would try to splice a cable to the old cable to get the car going. They had to go quite far, but didn't pull out the engine (as would be necessary if using the Mazda replacement cable). The car has now started beautifully, no problems until tonight September 10. I now have to find out if the spliced cable is no longer working, or if there is some other electrical problems. Anyone have any ideas? In addition, my car started bucking around the same time. I'll be driving and all of a sudden it gets jerky. I brought it in to my new service station and they said they believe it is a faulty cylinder, and that it is one of the rear cylinders. Since the check engine light isn't coming on, they have no codes to go by to determine which cylinder isn't working properly. They said I would have to go to a Mazda dealer to have them determine which cylinder is the faulty one if the check engine light still doesn't come on. The person from AAA who came to jump my car this evening, said he thought if I got a good set of new spark plugs, that it might help the situation. Does anyone know anything about this? I bought this Mazda against my better judgment, having had a Mazda previously and gotten lousy service. But the dealer we bought it from insisted Mazda had changed. Well, I am here to tell that Mazda hasn't changed and that's probably why two dealerships in 4 years have gone out of business in my area. The only two remaining dealerships in my area are extremely inconvenient for me. As I told the people at Mazda of North America when they refused to do anything for me. When I had my Dodge Caravan, which had many problems, they always worked with me on the major repairs. At this point a lemon from Dodge which will work with you, appears to be a better deal than a lemon from Mazda, which won't work with you. I will never buy a Mazda again, and I am telling everyone I know not to buy a Mazda. Mazda stinks. However, as I am stuck with this car for awhile, I would appreciate it if anyone out there has any ideas about what could be causing 1. corrosion of the battery cable; 2. any other electrical problems that might make the car not start; 3. what could be causing the bucking or jerking. Thank you.
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Replying to: ekn95 (Sep 10, 2007 7:11 pm) the "bucking" and hard starts could be because of an intermittent battery connection. both leads need to be checked. it could be something else of course. did you physically try making sure each cable to each spark plug was on the plug and distributor well? you could have a clogged EGR valve or port. after your trip to a local parts store for advice on the battery cables, it might be time to seek out another mechanic. |
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Replying to: ekn95 (Sep 10, 2007 7:11 pm)
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Replying to: maltb (Sep 11, 2007 8:44 am) |
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Replying to: ekn95 (Sep 11, 2007 8:38 pm) It isn't rocket science, but it must be done properly. If you have to splice in a new battery terminal and lead, then there is probably a clamp an auto-parts store sells that would give you a good mechanical and electrical connection and is the proper size / gauge to carry the amps (current) required of the starter and other electrical equipment. If it is the positive lead (that would be red or +), and your description seems to imply this, then you need to make absolutely positively sure the splice or clamped area that mate the new battery terminal and wire to the old wire is wrapped quite well in insulating material so that it cannot make contact with the frame of the vehicle which is connected to the (-) negative lead of the battery. If that were to happen, you'd have an electrical short and the possibility of battery explosion or fire. My guess is that autoparts stores like NAPA or Autozone or PepBoys (or fill in the blank) sell a kit to do exactly this with some insulator for the connection between the wires, and at minimal cost. Yes... I think a second opinion is warranted here, and yes, if the jerry-rigging is poor, could contribute to your symptoms. Good luck to you. |
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Replying to: ekn95 (Sep 11, 2007 8:38 pm) As user777 suggested, you should have gotten a second opinion. The link above is a battery cable for a 2002 MPV at Advanced Auto parts. There is no single part in the engine that should run you $1000. Based on what you are describing, I'm not sure a corroded cable was your initial problem. Based on your post, did you ever verify that the battery cable was $1000? I know this is what the new mechanic said and I know you called your former Mazda dealership but you never indicated the cost of the part was verified. I would suggest canceling your appointment with the mechanic and taking it over to a Mazda dealer, no matter how inconvenient it is. Then read through this forum. I'm sure there are others who have had the same issue you are experiencing now. I have yet to see anyone talk about a bad battery cable causing this problem. EGR valve, bad ignition coil, yes but not corrosion on a battery cable.
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Replying to: dtownfb (Sep 12, 2007 10:34 am)
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Replying to: ekn95 (Sep 14, 2007 3:52 pm) In quantity, it's a very cheap part. Now perhaps they have no more in their system, but as another poster showed you via a link, a suitable replacement is going to cost 10s of dollars at most. I'm so sorry for you. It really sounds as though someone has worked the situation and cost you big $$$, when that shouldn't have been the case. Also, I apologize, but there's something about your story that isn't really adding up. Is there something you are omitting? I'm just having trouble with the information thus far presented. |
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I've got a green 2001 ES which we've been very happy with. Unfortunately, my son has finally managed to break the handle off. Anyone know if this is something that a DIY'er could manage, or should I just take it in for service at a dealer ( I assume I'd have to get the part at a Mazda dealership anyway )? Anyone know the cost of the part or service? Thanks for any info! |
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Replying to: mazdampv2001es (Oct 02, 2007 9:59 am)
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