Last post on Dec 14, 2011 at 12:46 PM
You are in the Mazda MPV
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Mazda MPV, Van
#8048 of 8223 Bad ignition coil
Jul 19, 2007 (3:10 pm)
My 2002 MPV started stumbling when I was out of town this week. The way my wife described the problem, I couldn't tell if the problem was due to the tires (recently replaced the fronts when one went flat), tranny, or other. So I drove it when I got home last night and it stumbled at slow speeds. My wife and son said it was fine on the freeway. I went out of town again today but they took it in to the Mazda dealer. Problem was a bad ignition coil ($350 parts + labor, covered by the extended warranty). The dealer recommended that the plugs be replaced at the same time, since the warranty company was basically paying much of the labor cost with the coil replacement, and the van is nearly due for its 60k service. Seemed reasonable--$140 for that. Then they said the front rotors were warped and the front discs were at 15-20% and recommended replacing both. I hemmed and hawed a bit on that, since I've never noticed any braking problem, but since it's the primary vehicle for my wife and kids, it's good to have the brakes ship-shape. Total will be about $400 for brakes and plugs.
Then in a couple of months I get to pay for the 60k service, but at least it won't need spark plugs or brake work then (rears are in good shape).
#8049 of 8223 Electrical problems and bucking
Sep 10, 2007 (7:11 pm)
I had my Mazda MPV in for service in June. Had always used Mazda dealer for all services. As of now it has 47,000+ miles. At end of July, brought it in to non-Mazda service station for a flat tire. When I went to start car after tire repair, it wouldn't start. Service station checked and found that one of the battery cables and what holds it onto the battery had disintegrated. Was told that because Mazda, in it's mysterious wisdom had chosen to make it all one piece, it would be a big job to replace and the part would cost me $1,000.00. I immediately called my dealer, who proceeded to advise me, that they had been sold, a week before, and the new owners had stopped selling and servicing mazdas (the second time this has happened since I bought my MPV in June of 2003), so that there was nothing they could do for me. Also, that my warranty had run out at the end of June. I called Mazda of North America, and they refused to do anything for me, not even allowing me the courtesy to let me pay to extend my warranty. My new service station said they would try to splice a cable to the old cable to get the car going. They had to go quite far, but didn't pull out the engine (as would be necessary if using the Mazda replacement cable). The car has now started beautifully, no problems until tonight September 10. I now have to find out if the spliced cable is no longer working, or if there is some other electrical problems. Anyone have any ideas?
In addition, my car started bucking around the same time. I'll be driving and all of a sudden it gets jerky. I brought it in to my new service station and they said they believe it is a faulty cylinder, and that it is one of the rear cylinders. Since the check engine light isn't coming on, they have no codes to go by to determine which cylinder isn't working properly. They said I would have to go to a Mazda dealer to have them determine which cylinder is the faulty one if the check engine light still doesn't come on.
The person from AAA who came to jump my car this evening, said he thought if I got a good set of new spark plugs, that it might help the situation. Does anyone know anything about this?
I bought this Mazda against my better judgment, having had a Mazda previously and gotten lousy service. But the dealer we bought it from insisted Mazda had changed. Well, I am here to tell that Mazda hasn't changed and that's probably why two dealerships in 4 years have gone out of business in my area. The only two remaining dealerships in my area are extremely inconvenient for me. As I told the people at Mazda of North America when they refused to do anything for me. When I had my Dodge Caravan, which had many problems, they always worked with me on the major repairs. At this point a lemon from Dodge which will work with you, appears to be a better deal than a lemon from Mazda, which won't work with you. I will never buy a Mazda again, and I am telling everyone I know not to buy a Mazda. Mazda stinks. However, as I am stuck with this car for awhile, I would appreciate it if anyone out there has any ideas about what could be causing 1. corrosion of the battery cable; 2. any other electrical problems that might make the car not start; 3. what could be causing the bucking or jerking.
#8050 of 8223 Re: Electrical problems and bucking [ekn95]
Sep 11, 2007 (8:18 am)
a battery cable should be something you can get at an auto parts store. bring it over to them and have them look at it. generally, the corrosion you will see can be easily cleaned with a steel brush, and the terminal put back on the battery to make a sound physical conntection with good electrical continuity.
the "bucking" and hard starts could be because of an intermittent battery connection. both leads need to be checked.
it could be something else of course. did you physically try making sure each cable to each spark plug was on the plug and distributor well?
you could have a clogged EGR valve or port.
after your trip to a local parts store for advice on the battery cables, it might be time to seek out another mechanic.
#8051 of 8223 Re: Electrical problems and bucking [ekn95]
Sep 11, 2007 (8:44 am)
that service station isn't very creative. just purchase a new lead terminal and cut off the old one. Attach the existing cable to the new terminal. Be sure to clean with baking soda and water before you re-attach the cable. 15 minutes and $2 later, you'll be back in business.
#8052 of 8223 Re: Electrical problems and bucking [maltb]
Sep 11, 2007 (8:38 pm)
Thanks user777 and maltb. Unfortunately, due to the design of the battery cable/lead terminal in the Mazda MPV, just attaching a new lead terminal wouldn't work. One the cable wouldn't reach as far as the replacement lead terminals the station had on hand, and two the battery cable itself was so corroded quite far down the cable that it had to be cut out and another cable spliced back in. The electrician at the service station did try cleaning the corrosion first. This jerry-rigged repair cost me less than 1/2 the price of taking my MPV to an inconveniently located dealership, having them replace the battery cable with the corresponding Mazda part of $1,000 and paying them for the labor on top of it. However, I do wonder if the cable splice is that good, and could be causing the intermittent problems I'm having. Have an appointment to take it back tomorrow for them to check. But maybe your suggestion of taking it to another place to have a second opinion is good.
#8053 of 8223 Re: Electrical problems and bucking [ekn95]
Sep 12, 2007 (3:03 am)
A jerry-rig repair for $500? I hate to say this but you may have been taken. A new cable, and splicing it in should have been a repair that should have been relatively inexpensive. Continue reading.
It isn't rocket science, but it must be done properly. If you have to splice in a new battery terminal and lead, then there is probably a clamp an auto-parts store sells that would give you a good mechanical and electrical connection and is the proper size / gauge to carry the amps (current) required of the starter and other electrical equipment.
If it is the positive lead (that would be red or +), and your description seems to imply this, then you need to make absolutely positively sure the splice or clamped area that mate the new battery terminal and wire to the old wire is wrapped quite well in insulating material so that it cannot make contact with the frame of the vehicle which is connected to the (-) negative lead of the battery. If that were to happen, you'd have an electrical short and the possibility of battery explosion or fire.
My guess is that autoparts stores like NAPA or Autozone or PepBoys (or fill in the blank) sell a kit to do exactly this with some insulator for the connection between the wires, and at minimal cost.
Yes... I think a second opinion is warranted here, and yes, if the jerry-rigging is poor, could contribute to your symptoms.
Good luck to you.
#8054 of 8223 Re: Electrical problems and bucking [ekn95]
Sep 12, 2007 (10:34 am)
As user777 suggested, you should have gotten a second opinion. The link above is a battery cable for a 2002 MPV at Advanced Auto parts. There is no single part in the engine that should run you $1000. Based on what you are describing, I'm not sure a corroded cable was your initial problem.
Based on your post, did you ever verify that the battery cable was $1000? I know this is what the new mechanic said and I know you called your former Mazda dealership but you never indicated the cost of the part was verified.
I would suggest canceling your appointment with the mechanic and taking it over to a Mazda dealer, no matter how inconvenient it is. Then read through this forum. I'm sure there are others who have had the same issue you are experiencing now. I have yet to see anyone talk about a bad battery cable causing this problem. EGR valve, bad ignition coil, yes but not corrosion on a battery cable.
#8055 of 8223 Re: Electrical problems and bucking [dtownfb]
Sep 14, 2007 (3:52 pm)
Thanks again User777 and dtownfb. I will take your advice and bring the MVP elsewhere for a second opinion. However, I did verify with Mazda of North America about the price of the battery cable. The person I spoke with there couldn't believe that the cost of the part was $1,000.00 either, but he researched it and came back to me and told me it was, and that was when Mazda decided it wouldn't help me out in any manner. Doesn't look good, that Mazda dealerships, who are supposed to perform "full" inspections with each service, don't notice the problem and then 1 month after both a service and the warranty expires with under 47,000 miles I start having these problems (with a battery that had already been replaced a year prior), and within the space of 4 years two dealerships have dropped Mazda, and Mazda won't help? Not great public relations on their part? The least they could have done was tell me to take it to another Mazda dealer and let them check it out and determine if this really was the problem and then decide what they would or wouldn't do. But the response from Mazda was basically, sorry, nothing we can do for you. Anyway, as I said I will check into what you've advised. Hopefully, you are both right and I can get this fixed quickly and inexpensively.
#8056 of 8223 Re: Electrical problems and bucking [ekn95]
Sep 15, 2007 (11:28 am)
Mazda's main battery terminal is not a 1K part. I'm sorry, it just isn't. If Mazda were to have made that part 1/4 of that price, they would have been insane.
In quantity, it's a very cheap part. Now perhaps they have no more in their system, but as another poster showed you via a link, a suitable replacement is going to cost 10s of dollars at most.
I'm so sorry for you. It really sounds as though someone has worked the situation and cost you big $$$, when that shouldn't have been the case.
Also, I apologize, but there's something about your story that isn't really adding up. Is there something you are omitting? I'm just having trouble with the information thus far presented.
#8057 of 8223 Broken exterior right side rear door handle ...
Oct 02, 2007 (9:59 am)
I've got a green 2001 ES which we've been very happy with. Unfortunately, my son has finally managed to break the handle off.
Anyone know if this is something that a DIY'er could manage, or should I just take it in for service at a dealer ( I assume I'd have to get the part at a Mazda dealership anyway )?
Anyone know the cost of the part or service?
Thanks for any info!