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Mazda MPV
Mazda MPV
8216 messages, Last post on Mar 18, 2010 at 11:50 PM
You are in the Mazda MPV Forum. Your Host is Karens
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Hi everyone! It's my first posting, and I hope you can help me decide between 2 minivans that I have binders on (need to decide tomorrow). #1 is a 2000 MPV LX with 39K miles, price $10,700 plus a $440 dealer prep charge that I'm not happy about. Supposedly it will be mazda certified after they run 100 point check. This car has a few cosmetic problems, smell from dog/smoking, no roofrack, sticking in sliding 2nd row seat, stains on rug/headliner, etc. Carfax says 1 owner , private vehicle, no accidents, odometer clean. Dealer says they will shampo rugs and headliner. #2 is a 1998 Toyota Sienna LE with 48K miles for $9995 no dealer prep (not a showroom, a trailer and lot by side of road). Inside beautiful, engine looks good. Carfax says 2 owners, one of which was a lease. We plan on having a mechanic look at both tomorrow, but I was hoping for some input on reliability (ratings seem comparable), comfort, ease of parking, maintenace costs (anyone know when these things need timing belt changes?) etc. We have 2 kids and would only use the 3rd row occasionally.Usage will be around town and short trips. Thank you for your input. |
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Check the True Market Value if you haven't already. The Edmunds Maintenance Guide provides maintenance cost estimates and intervals. The MPV is 2 years newer, one owner, fewer miles.... hmmm. Steve, Host |
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See everyone either in late August or early September. Off to VT for the remainder of the summer. No phones or computers. Everyone stay safe! Leslie Zoom-Zoom! |
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Hey new owners, please tell us about your purchase: Madza MPV: Prices Paid & Buying Experience If you can't find the discussion, try the What Did You Pay board over in Smart Shopper. There's some housekeeping going on getting it organized. Steve, Host |
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| We're interested in the MPV and are wondering when would be the best time to buy. We're not in a hurry but aren't sure if we should wait until the new model year (when is that for the MPV by the way?). I wasn't sure if now was the best time since they have the $2000 rebate and still have adequate inventory. I was worried that in a couple of months, they'll have dwindling supplies of the 2003 as they get ready for 2004's (which I assume won't have rebates when they arrive). Is the window closing on the best time to buy? | |
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Best time to buy, would be between now and the next couple of weeks, I'd guess... or by Sept. 2nd (current sunset date of the rebate). There are fewer and fewer 2003s out there, and the 2004s will be almost the same, but cost more, and won't have rebates. My .02, YMMV... |
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I agree with Javadoc--no real changes for the 2004, not worth waiting for--right now, you're basically playing chicken with the dealers, seeing who's going to run out of inventory/patience first--we *still* haven't bought--got cold feet last weekend, and the navy/grey combination that Steve so correctly identified as associated with the War of Northern Aggression still bugs me...but we really should fish or cut bait in the next two weeks, I think...or of course wait for what happens in August. I've seen several hundred dollars under invoice (which is only fair, it represents a small portion of the depreciation on a car that's almost a year old)before the $2K, so that's decent. Good luck! And Steve, how sweet to start a prices paid page for the MPV LOL--sorry if I was any part cause of that... |
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Thanks for all your insight on trailer hitches |
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Don't take it personally, man. You'll find plenty of insight on trailer hitches on that "other" site, which you and I both frequent... Basically it boils down to this: 1) Yes they bolt to the frame rails, located on either side of the rear seat well (not the fuel tank, which is located forward, underneath the driver's side 2nd row seat). 2) Available hitches that I know of include Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch and the OEM unit. Reese prolly makes one too. You'll need to specify either GFX or sans-GFX when ordering. 3) The OEM unit is class II, the aftermarket units are available in class II or class III. 4) You'll want class III for hauling bigger, heavier trailers with a weight-distributing hitch (puts load back on front drive wheels) or for a 2" receiver (bigger bike racks), otherwise, a class II is just fine. 5) Having bought a Draw-Tite and seen pictures of the Hidden Hitch, I'd definately go with the Hidden Hitch. Price is about the same, quality comparable, and the aesthetics are far superior. The Draw-Tite and OEM units are not pretty to look at, just functional. 6) We paid $250 installed through the dealer, which is a steal. Included wiring harness and brake controller (not needed if you just want to put a bike rack back there, of course). Hitches run $130 plus shipping over the web by themselves, but wiring harnesses are surprisingly expensive. Brake controllers run about $50 plus installation. 7) The MPV requires a special wiring harness, be careful not to mess up the vehicle's electronics. 8) If the dealer price hadn't been so aggressive, I'd have done it myself. The hitch is downright easy, and the the wiring harness is manageable so far as I know. 9) Unbraked trailer weight limit is 1000#, which pretty much eliminates everything short of the smallest U-Haul. If a trailer is in your future, plan on trailer brakes (but a boat would use surge brakes, which don't require a controller). Hope this helps, -brianV |
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I have a few ESs that I located in the PNW for you. Here's a shortlist (and it's a short list): Sage Green in Beaverton - They have only one Sage Green in Edmund(sp), WA - They have two Midnight Blue in Hillsboro - I think you saw that one? Black - None in OR or WA, but in N.Cali there are a couple. I should have a comprehensive list of these in about 30mins. Here's where I'll step carefully (Steve), b/c I'm not promoting self or anyone else.. |
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