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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY

4469 messages,  Last post on Oct 27, 2006 at 9:04 PM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda MPV, Van

Messages Page 418 of 448

#4167 of 4469 2002 Mazda MPV Problems by mom2bckj

Jul 29, 2005 (6:59 pm)

Since I bought my Mazda new in Aug 2002 I have had it to the dealership many times for warranty issues.
Mar 2003: Brakes were cliking-front clips had to be replaced.
Jul 2003: Recall on fog lamps, rotors had to be resurfaced.
Sep 2003: C/E light on-pvc hose had to be replaced.
Apr 2004: Enigine was reving hard when cold. I was told there wasn't a problem.
   Creeking sound in steering wheel. They replaced both front tie rod ends and said it fixed the problem. I got in the car and could still hear the creeking. I had to get the tech in the car so he could "hear" what I heard. Mazda states that there is nothing wrong.
Nov 2004: C/E light onagain - pvc hose had to be replaced again.
   Also recall done on fan module replacement.
Apr 2005: Leaking antifreeze. Mazda replaced water circulating pump.
   Unfortunately they did not fill up the reservoir. My husband filled it when I got home. They had the car for 10 days. I got it back on a Wednesday.
Apr 2005: (3 days later) My husband got under the car to change the oil. Found
   out that the oil pan was leaking oil. It was very obvious to him and would have been easily spotted by the tech that replaced the water circulation pump when he had the car up on a lift. My paperwork from the dealership states that a "Mazda Full Circle Complete Vehicle Inspection" was performed. It makes me think that they didn't tell me about the oil leak because it only had 2900 mile left on the warranty.
Jul 2005: 151 miles out of warranty. C/E light came on AGAIN. This time they
   think it is a bad plug or coil in the #3 cyclinder. Had to have work done as engine is lugging. The dealership (out of the goodness of thier heart) took $200.00 off the total bill. $360.00 out of pocket plus two days rental car fees. Plus when I look back at all the times that they "test drove" my car I am sure that it totals more than 151 miles. Especially as the tech that repaired the oil leak took the car home for the night so that they could see where the oil was coming from.
 
That's about it for me. Does anyone know a good lemon law attorney for the state of Maryland? Or is it to late for that. This was the first and last Mazda we will ever buy. Their quality has gone drastically down hill since they merged with Ford.

#4168 of 4469 Re: Air conditioning in MPV [tdbmd] by mom2bckj

Jul 30, 2005 (7:33 am)

Replying to: tdbmd (Jul 25, 2005 6:18 am)
On really hot days I have to make sure to turn on both the front and rear A/C. Also, check and make sure that the kids did not adjust the rear A/C to heat instead. Hope this helps.

#4169 of 4469 Solution for adjustable air shocks '96 MPV by edmundsuser328

Jul 30, 2005 (10:55 am)

i have a '96 2WD with a towing package that includes an adjustable read air shock system. The air pump in in the engine compartment. For towing it works great. The RR shock began to leak causing the air pump to run frequently. The shock is $350 and dealer installation is 1.5 hrs. I wanted to remove the air shocks, as I don't tow anymore, and put in cheaper hydraulics. This means the springs have to be replaced. My (non-dealer) machanic came up with a monroe air shock that is manually adjustable. It has a value (same as tire values) on the shock and holds up to 90psi. Cost for 2 shocks installed w/o the need for new springs = $270
 
The dealer wanted $475 for 1 shock and then found the air pump release value (to let air out of the system) is $980 for the pump and $250 to install. $1705 and I would have still had 1 old air shock. The dealer will NOT recomend this solution. For older MPVs ith this system and moderate towing it is a cost effective way to go.
 
FYI .

#4170 of 4469 Re: ignition key withdrawal [mtbiker1] by dan40

Jul 31, 2005 (1:52 pm)

Replying to: mtbiker1 (Mar 27, 2005 9:31 pm)
When I turn off the car the key will not click into the final position for removal unless I remove the 60 amp fuse labeled 1GKEY1 or 60 amp BTN or the positive battery cable. There is an audible click from the ignition when any of the above is done and I can the turn the key to take it out. Shifting in and out of park and keeping my foot on the brake has does not help to let the key turn all the way out. Could this be something other than replacing the ignition?

#4171 of 4469 Re: 2002 Mazda MPV Problems [mom2bckj] by tccmn1

Aug 01, 2005 (9:52 pm)

Replying to: mom2bckj (Jul 29, 2005 6:59 pm)
So, you had that creeking sound in your steering too! I've had it in my 2003 and seen it from several people on this thread too! Very disturbing and my MN. dealer stated the same thing; Mazda corporate has no fix = NORMAL! $30K for a piece of junk that has more problems with no fixes than my 1995 Dodge Caravan had!!! At least they had fixes for their problems...Mazda has no answers! Dah!
I tremble to think of what this vehicle will be like IF it makes it to 150K miles on it. My old DC had 185K miles on it when I sold it and it was still running fine...darn!

#4172 of 4469 Re: Very Poor Mileage on 2003 MPV LX [bigdadi118] by criledo

Aug 02, 2005 (7:18 am)

Replying to: bigdadi118 (Jul 29, 2005 7:59 am)
Thanks for your suggestions, I will follow them all. I do have a follow-up though: The van was taken to service because of the transmission acting up. The software was "updated" and really the car now shifts much better. We are through our first tank of gas and again, we got a mere 190 miles out of a full one........ the service rep though says it'll take a couple more tanks to notice the difference. Anyway, I'll post an update when that happens and I have followed your recomms. (By the way, the van was thoroughly checked and emissions are normal).

#4173 of 4469 Re: Very Poor Mileage on 2003 MPV LX [criledo] by user777

Aug 07, 2005 (5:03 am)

Replying to: criledo (Aug 02, 2005 7:18 am)
criledo - is there any chance you are judging "full one" based on your gas gauge in the instrumentation cluster, rather than the capacity of the tank and how many gallons are actually pumped?

#4174 of 4469 Cranks but won't start by oaktrimmer

Aug 07, 2005 (1:19 pm)

My 2001 Mazda MPV LX has close to 90,000 miles and has been very dependable. Last night, with no warning, it wouldn't start. Actually, it started a couple of times but quickly died. Now it just sits there and cranks but won't even attempt to start. Behaves like it's either not getting a spark or not getting any gas. I'm not really anxious to have it towed to a garage if there's something simple that I can check. Any suggestions on how to check the fuel pump or the distributor or thoughts on what else may be wrong?

#4175 of 4469 Re: Very Poor Mileage on 2003 MPV LX [user777] by criledo

Aug 08, 2005 (6:33 am)

Replying to: user777 (Aug 07, 2005 5:03 am)
Your question is a good one - I have noticed how tricky it is with the gauges. I measure by pumped gallons. Whatever is on the trip odometer gets divided by the gallonage pumped in. It might not be very accurate, but over a few refills one can approximate fuel usage. Here's my baseline: other users and even the Mazda distributor will tell you one should be getting around 300+ miles to a tank. Well, in our case it is not unusual to not even reach 200 miles on a full tank........ if I have pumped say 16 gallons, well, that is not 15 mpg. The frustrating part about this is that Mazda says the van is running "within normal parameters".

#4176 of 4469 Re: Cranks but won't start [oaktrimmer] by criledo

Aug 08, 2005 (6:42 am)

Replying to: oaktrimmer (Aug 07, 2005 1:19 pm)
I had this happen to me last week on a Ford truck. What happened was that the fuel pump (inside the gas tank got stuck). The way this Ford works, there is a primary signal that runs the pump for three seconds giving the engine sufficient gas pressure to start. Once the engine is actually running the secondary signal keeps the pump running. But during cranking no fuel is pumped into the system unless you shut down the ignition switch and re start it again. Just like you say, our engine tried to start and then just cranks and cranks. I am not sure about Mazda,s but generally speaking to reach the pump you have to be able to get into the porthole on the tank. Some cars have portholes in the floors for this purpose but most likely the tank will have to come down. Rule of thumb: a lack of fuel cranking will be monotone with no sputters. If the problem is electrical or time-chain related, usually the cranking speed will vary and maybe sputters will be present. Also, the fuel pump not working will not cause the check engine light to come on. Electrical problems and misfires will make it come on. Although I don't have THE answer for you, this info might help some.

Messages Page 418 of 448

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