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Dodge Caravan/Chrysler Voyager

2351 messages,  Last post on Jun 28, 2009 at 2:49 AM

You are in the Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan Forum. Your Host is Karens

What is this discussion about? Chrysler Voyager, Dodge Caravan, Dodge Grand Caravan, Chrysler Grand Voyager, Van


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#2318 of 2351
starting by mellie3
Mar 24, 2008 (7:55 am)
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when i start my 2000 plymouth voyager it makes a rattling noise.only happens when it sits for 2 hrs then starting it agian it makes the same noise.what could it be?
#2319 of 2351
Re: starting [mellie3] by shipo
Mar 24, 2008 (6:28 pm)
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Replying to: mellie3 (Mar 24, 2008 7:55 am)

Assumption: Your 2000 Voyager has a 3.3 liter engine. Yes, no?
 
Could the "rattling" also be described as a clattering noise from the engine? If so you or your mechanic are/is probably using an oil filter that has a crappy Anti-Drainback Valve (not to be confused with a crappy filter as many high dollar filters have worthless ADVs). With our 1998 Caravan I've tried any number of filters over the years, and so far at least, the Motorcraft FL-1A filter (available at Walmart and Autozone, and I'm sure many other places) keeps the engine the quietest by a wide margin. In fact the "margin" is so wide that I've stopped trying other filters and will use NOTHING but the FL-1A.
 
If you decide to use the Motorcraft filter, do not be alarmed by its large size, Chrysler and Ford used filters built to the same specs for literally decades, and when Chrysler specified the smaller filter that came on our vans, they simply lopped the last couple of inches off of the large cannister filters, slapped a new model number on them and called it a day. That said, instead of adding five quarts following an oil change, now you'll need to add ~5.2 or 5.3 quarts to bring the oil up to the "Full" mark on the dipstick.
 
Keep us posted.
 
Best Regards,
Shipo
#2320 of 2351
Re: starting [shipo] by mellie3
Apr 04, 2008 (5:49 pm)
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Replying to: shipo (Mar 24, 2008 6:28 pm)

yes it does.well i also have had a rebiult tranny within tha last month.noise is getting harder.just had a oil change its now more of a knocking.i thinks its a rod.help.any suggestions what to do.trade it in, try lucas oil, new engine.only when starting and press on the gas to take of.does not knock when idling.
#2321 of 2351
Re: starting [mellie3] by shipo
Apr 04, 2008 (8:51 pm)
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Replying to: mellie3 (Apr 04, 2008 5:49 pm)

When you say the noise is "getting harder", does that mean that you hear it for more than a second or two following a cold start? If so then you might well have a bearing or other engine issue, however, if the noise is only apparent immediately following a cold start (as you stated in your first post), you should change your oil filter NOW to a Motorcraft FL-1A, no joke, this WILL solve your problem.
 
If you have a rod pounding, the noise will not subside in the least after an engine start, cold or hot, it will pound all of the time. Regarding Lucas oil additives, nope, if you truely have a problem, that stuff won't help (in fact, it won't help even if you don't have a problem).
 
Best Regards,
Shipo
#2322 of 2351
Re: starting [shipo] by mellie3
Apr 05, 2008 (12:11 pm)
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Replying to: shipo (Apr 04, 2008 8:51 pm)

see thats the thingit doesnt pound all the time just when started and now as u press on the gas until it shifts..when its stoped at a light its quiet.when in park its quiet.just when starting and sometimes when u press on the gas until it shifts.i just hadd oil changed.do u think if i by the new filter can they put it in for me?every answer will help me.i own the van and want to keep it for awhile.lol.what about a tune up.im saving up for it.2wks or less.
#2323 of 2351
Re: starting [mellie3] by shipo
Apr 05, 2008 (7:24 pm)
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Replying to: mellie3 (Apr 05, 2008 12:11 pm)

Hmmm, if the engine makes a mechanical pounding at anytime after the first few seconds following a cold start then you have a problem that an oil filter will not solve. Long story short, you need some engine work if that's the case, we're talking some serious dollars here.
 
Question: Did you ever run this engine low on oil at any point? Have you ever seen the oil pressure light illuminate?
 
Best Regards,
Shipo
#2324 of 2351
Re: starting [shipo] by mellie3
Apr 06, 2008 (12:46 am)
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Replying to: shipo (Apr 05, 2008 7:24 pm)

yes unfortunally i have.but i always added oil as soon as i saw it.how much are we talkin here?
#2325 of 2351
Re: starting [mellie3] by shipo
Apr 06, 2008 (8:02 am)
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Replying to: mellie3 (Apr 06, 2008 12:46 am)

I assume the "how much" question is in regards to money. Yes, no?
 
As I see it, if you have lower end damage (i.e. a rod pounding or other bearing related damage), you have three basic options.
 
1) Have the engine repaired. This one may be a cost effective option assuming that the crank shaft hasn't yet been damaged. Probably your best bet here would be to have a competent mechanic pull the oil pan (which on our vans is easy and doesn't require the removal of any frame, engine mount, or suspension components) and examine the crank and bearing assemblies. If the crank is damaged, you'll probably need to have the engine pulled, and that's where the price rises considerably. That said, if the crank is in good shape, you'll probably be able to get away with a set of main and rod bearings and an oil pan gasket. Total cost should be under $500.
 
2) A used engine from a bone yard. The good news here is that these engines are very plentiful (there are lots of minivans on the road these days), and typically good for at least 200,000 miles with only minimal maintenance. I've heard reports of folks finding engines in great condition with less than 100,000 miles on them for only a couple of hundred dollars. You can probably buy the used motor and pay to have it installed for less than $1,000.
 
3) A new shortblock. The web site http://www.dodgeparts.com lists a new short block (a fully built up engine block that includes the crank, bearings, pistons, cam and all of then necessary hardware above the oil pan and below the cylinder heads) for $1,254 for the 3.3 liter engine. If you decide to go this route, you'll have to pay someone to pull your old mill, move the upper end of the engine (heads, manifolds, covers...) and the lower end components (oil pan and such) to the new block and then reinstall it in your van. The total cost here is probably between $2,000 and $2,500.
 
Were it that I had an older van that needed an engine but was otherwise in good condition, I'd probably opt for option #2, errr, that is if I didn't have the ability to do my own work. In my case, I'd probably yank the motor, overhaul it and slap it back in. The total cost (not counting my labor) is probably well under $1,000, and will yield what is essentially a "new" engine. So, feel handy and feel like getting your hands dirty?
 
Keep us posted.
 
Best Regards,
Shipo
#2326 of 2351
Re: starting [shipo] by mellie3
Apr 06, 2008 (11:03 am)
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Replying to: shipo (Apr 06, 2008 8:02 am)

thank you.
#2327 of 2351
Grand Voyager 3.3 LE auto boiling by up1n5m0k3
Apr 18, 2008 (1:40 pm)
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Could someone tell me whats going on here, or whats the problem?.......
it started high reving to 2000 revs then it dropped for a bit,
20 mins of driving, I stopped the engine then all hell broke loose,
it started bubbling, it over heated so I put the heaters on in the car and steam came out of the front vent, steamed the window up and then a smell of like it was electrical
so anyone know what could be the problem? please help!!!. its a 3.3 le gas conversion

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