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Vans & Minivans Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan Dodge Caravan/Chrysler Voyager
2361 messages, Last post on Nov 18, 2009 at 1:15 PM
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Replying to: max46 (Mar 04, 2008 9:25 am)  Best Regards, Shipo |
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Does anyone know why this happens, and/or how to fix it? I have a 2000 Caravan, and after it rains I get very visible black streaks on the sides and back hatch. I washed and wax/polished the entire van. Still get black streaks. I even wax/polished the roof rack, some black residue did come off of the rack onto the paper towels but I think I got all the black residue off. I still get the streaking. Auughhh! And guess what, the van is white. I guess it's the roof rack and all other rubber/plastic window moulding/etc. that is deteriorating, but I don't know why it doesn't happen on everyone's vehicle. My van isn't new but 8 years old isn't that old. Is there anything I can do to fix it? It looks awful.  
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when i start my 2000 plymouth voyager it makes a rattling noise.only happens when it sits for 2 hrs then starting it agian it makes the same noise.what could it be?
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Replying to: mellie3 (Mar 24, 2008 6:55 am) Could the "rattling" also be described as a clattering noise from the engine? If so you or your mechanic are/is probably using an oil filter that has a crappy Anti-Drainback Valve (not to be confused with a crappy filter as many high dollar filters have worthless ADVs). With our 1998 Caravan I've tried any number of filters over the years, and so far at least, the Motorcraft FL-1A filter (available at Walmart and Autozone, and I'm sure many other places) keeps the engine the quietest by a wide margin. In fact the "margin" is so wide that I've stopped trying other filters and will use NOTHING but the FL-1A. If you decide to use the Motorcraft filter, do not be alarmed by its large size, Chrysler and Ford used filters built to the same specs for literally decades, and when Chrysler specified the smaller filter that came on our vans, they simply lopped the last couple of inches off of the large cannister filters, slapped a new model number on them and called it a day. That said, instead of adding five quarts following an oil change, now you'll need to add ~5.2 or 5.3 quarts to bring the oil up to the "Full" mark on the dipstick. Keep us posted. Best Regards, Shipo
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Replying to: shipo (Mar 24, 2008 5:28 pm)
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Replying to: mellie3 (Apr 04, 2008 4:49 pm) If you have a rod pounding, the noise will not subside in the least after an engine start, cold or hot, it will pound all of the time. Regarding Lucas oil additives, nope, if you truely have a problem, that stuff won't help (in fact, it won't help even if you don't have a problem). Best Regards, Shipo
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Replying to: shipo (Apr 04, 2008 7:51 pm)
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Replying to: mellie3 (Apr 05, 2008 11:11 am) Question: Did you ever run this engine low on oil at any point? Have you ever seen the oil pressure light illuminate? Best Regards, Shipo
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Replying to: shipo (Apr 05, 2008 6:24 pm)
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Replying to: mellie3 (Apr 05, 2008 11:46 pm) As I see it, if you have lower end damage (i.e. a rod pounding or other bearing related damage), you have three basic options. 1) Have the engine repaired. This one may be a cost effective option assuming that the crank shaft hasn't yet been damaged. Probably your best bet here would be to have a competent mechanic pull the oil pan (which on our vans is easy and doesn't require the removal of any frame, engine mount, or suspension components) and examine the crank and bearing assemblies. If the crank is damaged, you'll probably need to have the engine pulled, and that's where the price rises considerably. That said, if the crank is in good shape, you'll probably be able to get away with a set of main and rod bearings and an oil pan gasket. Total cost should be under $500. 2) A used engine from a bone yard. The good news here is that these engines are very plentiful (there are lots of minivans on the road these days), and typically good for at least 200,000 miles with only minimal maintenance. I've heard reports of folks finding engines in great condition with less than 100,000 miles on them for only a couple of hundred dollars. You can probably buy the used motor and pay to have it installed for less than $1,000. 3) A new shortblock. The web site http://www.dodgeparts.com lists a new short block (a fully built up engine block that includes the crank, bearings, pistons, cam and all of then necessary hardware above the oil pan and below the cylinder heads) for $1,254 for the 3.3 liter engine. If you decide to go this route, you'll have to pay someone to pull your old mill, move the upper end of the engine (heads, manifolds, covers...) and the lower end components (oil pan and such) to the new block and then reinstall it in your van. The total cost here is probably between $2,000 and $2,500. Were it that I had an older van that needed an engine but was otherwise in good condition, I'd probably opt for option #2, errr, that is if I didn't have the ability to do my own work. In my case, I'd probably yank the motor, overhaul it and slap it back in. The total cost (not counting my labor) is probably well under $1,000, and will yield what is essentially a "new" engine. So, feel handy and feel like getting your hands dirty? Keep us posted. Best Regards, Shipo
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