Last post on Oct 26, 2013 at 11:52 AM
You are in the Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan
What is this discussion about?
Chrysler Voyager, Dodge Caravan, Dodge Grand Caravan, Chrysler Grand Voyager, Van
#1220 of 2391 short wheel base van
Jun 29, 2001 (8:01 pm)
I would also like to see DC offer a SWB minivan with all of the options available on the long mini vans. We just traded a 1996 T & C LX that had all options for a 2001 Dodge Caravan Sport. Ordered the vehicle with every option available... but no trip computer or optional automatic hatch. Have the 1 sliding door on the right, but as far as I am concerned, it should I In the driver's side... thats the door you use to put in groceries or other items. If you're alone, why would you go to the passenger door to put in your items? We do have the overhead temperature control. I love the split rear seats and the tumble feature. We are retired and love be minivans for their room and versatility but do not need the longer version. They should offer one equipped like the pt cruiser limited. I think there would be a market. We also ordered the HD suspension and transmission cooler,trailer hitch from the factory and had the dealer install it. We have 1300 miles and no problems so far. Our '96 T & C was trouble free except for general maintenance for 63,000 miles. Hope this one will be as good...
Jun 30, 2001 (6:17 am)
Car and Driver had an article on driving techniques with airbags. the 10 and 2 is not suggested anymore as an exploding airbag would send your arms upwards towards your face. They advocated the 8 and 4 position.
#1222 of 2391 T&C and 3.5 Liter Motor Discovery
Jul 02, 2001 (3:47 am)
I'm sure most of the regular visitors to the forum know that DC was supposed to offer the 3.5 liter motor from the 300M in the T&C this year. Those plans were axed when DC sales/revenue tanked earlier this year.
That's what makes this discovery so interesting (funny, perhaps). When I was checking the oil on our 2 week old LXi yesterday I saw the belt diagram stickers (on the bracket over the radiotor). There are diagrams for all the motors (3.3, 3.8 and 3.5).
Makes one wonder if DC will reconsider the 3.5 motor for next year, or if it was cheaper to leave the sticker even after they pulled the plug on the option.
#1223 of 2391 I ended up with a T & C
Jul 04, 2001 (5:50 pm)
I posted this in the T & C forum, but have to be honest and confess it here too. Afterall, I just said a few days ago that I liked the Voyager.
Well, yesterday I bought a T & C. Here're the details:
I got a 2001 T&C LX for $500 under invoice (Dealer's rebate of $500) plus $2000 customer rebate. Total financed came to something like $19k (I threw in some $$ to get the payment down). It is a simple Steel Blue LX with 25h pkg and rook rack. I like it a lot (color and smoothness). We're all taking it on a 100 mile trip today to see some relatives.
Wife did complain that it didn't have the "oomph" going up a hill. But, I really don't see the problem. I do think that I recall someone saying here that the engine gets better after break-in (it only has 55 miles on it).
Oh, and the dealer found me a 6.3% rate for 60 mo! The best I saw on-line was 6.4% or 6.7%. I couldn't get Chrysler's special 3.9% rate because I took the $2000 rebate.
Dealer was very nice (though they skimped a little on my trade-in; they're going to make a lot of money off of that car). I got a 7yr/100k miles bumper to bumper warranty from the insurance company tacked onto my regular ins pymnt for about $7 a month. (Insurance actually went down between 2001 T&C and my 96 SUV!)
All in all the van costs less than my old RAV4. And, insurance went down (crash test results from what I understand).
Somehow I ended up with 10 speaker even though its not supposed to be on the car. And, I can go back and get about $200 of parts for free. I'll probably get mudguards, rear net or organizer, and wind visors. I may want a spoiler later (they handed me a dealer-priced accessory catalogue that they said they didn't need any more because the 2002 one would be out soon).
I tried to get 2100 rpm rattle to happen on the test drive. I couldn't. I couldn't hear any roof rack wind noise either. But, I wouldn't know what it'd sound like. To me the car is quiet.
Only negative that I know of now: how do I go back and figure out what TSBs to haggle over?
I mis-calculated when trying to figure out what my financing would look like. You take dealer cash off the top (it lowers what you are paying for the car so the IRS doesn't need to see it). Then, you do the taxes/tags and add that the cost. Then, you take off the customer rebates. Thats your financed amount. I made the mistake of adding dealer/customer rebates together, then taking that total off of the car cost, then doing taxes/tags, then calculating pymt from that. It makes a difference (taxes slightly higher) when you do it my way.
I used carsdirect as a guide, but I couldn't get them any lower (to get them to the 5% below carsdirect price that I've seen mentioned before). I tried but he told me that I was eating into the dealer holdback and they couldn't do it. So, I just settled.
Anyway (sorry for the long post), I like the van, and will check back with updates. I'll also try to remember buying experience tips to share with those who are thinking about buying (I found some things here really helpful as I was considering but some more things may help others).
Oh, I did find that the tires were under inflated. I added air. Does everyone else have 45 psi pressure? Am I reading that right? I only inflated UP TO 40 psi for now to be safe (I think the dealer had it down to about 35 psi; that can really affect mileage). Should I go up to 45 psi? I have goodyear something or other.
Thanks for all your help.
#1224 of 2391 dsoiam - tire presssue
Jul 05, 2001 (5:07 am)
Yeeps. 40-45 PSI is way to high.
On my '01 LXi the recommend pressure for our tires (Michelins) is either 35 or 38 psi.
There's a sticker inside the glovebox (against the back) that lists appropriate tire pressure. I believe there's another sticker with the same information on the driver's door jamb.
45 PSI is probably very close to the maximum inflation on the tires themselves - not a good thing if you drive long distances in hot weather.
#1225 of 2391 There's a sticker on your door
Jul 05, 2001 (8:21 am)
that will tell you the inflation pressure for your tires.
The MAX PRESSURE listed on the tires is not the proper pressure.
Jul 05, 2001 (10:14 am)
I checked and and you were right. I went back and inflated to 36 psi today. I was reading the sidewalls which say 45 psi. But, recommened is 36 psi. I have goodyears.
Jul 05, 2001 (6:16 pm)
The 45 on the sidewalls is if you carry a heavy load in your van. Then you need to put more air in the tires.
My 1 ton truck I had calls for 50lbs. all around unless I am carrying a heavy load like my 5th wheel before I sold it. Then I was to put 55 in the front and 80 in the back. Of course this was on my tire sticker on the driver door. They should put simular stickers on all vans etc. but they don't.
Jul 05, 2001 (6:28 pm)
If the door plate says 36 psi and the tire says 45 psi max, I would split the difference. The manufacturer wants a softer ride but I think the tires will last longer at the higher pressure.
#1229 of 2391 More Negotiations
Jul 06, 2001 (8:02 am)
After another "miscommunication", the dealer has tried to get me to go well above invoice. Originally gave me a number that should have included my last couple of lease payments. Later said he didn't understand what I was asking. I am making a final offer on a fully loaded SE. I came up with an invoice price of $31,500. $2,000 rebate takes us to $29,500. Splitting part of the dealer cash rebate. $29,200 doesn't seem unreasonable to me. What do you think? The dealers are really trying to give the impression that these vans are flying out the door. But that's not what I've observed so far.