Last post on Sep 19, 2013 at 3:05 AM
You are in the Chevy Express & GMC Savana
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Chevrolet Express, GMC Savana, Chevrolet Express Cargo, Chevrolet Sportvan, Chevrolet Chevy Van, Chevrolet Chevy Van Classic, Van
#236 of 655 Vibration
May 08, 2002 (4:57 pm)
I have the 2001 factory shop manuals from GMC for the Savana van. I took a look under "vibration diagnosis and correction" and found many different tables that list the steps to narrow down to a specific problem. There were tests for tire and wheel, driveline, hub/axle, engine balance, accessory isolation, etc. It then lists types of vibration symptoms like shake, roughness, buzz, tingling, moan or droan, whine, etc. My point is the dealer mechanic has to follow through all the various steps in the manual to narrow it down, and no one in here can make an opinion without knowing if its coming from the front or back or road testing it. Also the dealer should have a J J38792-VS Electronic Vibration Analyzer (EVA)to hook up.
I think it's best to see as many dealers as you need. I got a feeling this is an area not always easy to diagnose and you might be brushed off, there is no money in it for them to spend hours looking for a problem they can't easily find. By seeing more dealers someone might have the right answer or be energetic enough to look carefully.
I would start with test driving another vehicle to confirm your really have a problem, a cargo or passenger van makes no difference so long as engine size and vehicle size are the same. IF there is a noticeable difference, they have to fix it. I've notices smaller dealers love to find things to fix for you while it is under warranty, they will spend more time I think diagnosing the problem.
You might want to buy those manuals and read up on the problem yourself. There not cheap, but there is a lot of information there to save you money in the long run (simple or advanced repairs). You might be the only one to read through it all to give them some ideas.
May 12, 2002 (8:16 pm)
Out of the 3 family owned vans only one of them is power washed at a drive through car wash. The other 2 are hand washed and rinsed with a garden hose. It might be a factor, but not the root cause of the problem. If you stick silicone drops on the 4 corners it will stabilize the mirror and get rid of the vibration, but it fixes the mirror in one position and if you need to change the position for a shorter/taller driver you are stuck. When I drive my dad's van I take a piece of cardboard and wedge it under the mirror to stop the wobble. It's the whole mirror mount, not just the glass, so I don't know where to turn next.
May 12, 2002 (8:21 pm)
Well they are finally doing something with these things!!
New for '03 are the following:
1 Left side 60/40 doors, like the passenger side.
2 All wheel drive availability
3 Engines 4.8L, 5.3L, and the 6.0L(3/4 and 1 ton only) ditching the old 305 and 350 engines.
Returning for a repeat performance are the Mickey Mouse wobbling mirrors! They never learn.
#239 of 655 jgmilberg- mirrors
May 12, 2002 (8:44 pm)
Sticking cardboard may work for you, although most alternatives will look a bit sloppy. Chose whatever method pleases you, I'm sure it's obvious they all work. I mentioned silicone because many of us are the only drivers of the vehicle and silicone is more invisible for them.
I think most here are complaining about the glass itself, not the whole mount. My mounts are solid, and if your looking at a mounting problem, take the door panel off and tighten it. Either way, it does not make good sense to hit the mirrors directly with a high pressure power wash. Touch the glass and you can see how weak they appear in design. High pressure spray is well known to have damaged many radiators, and I bet mirrors are just as susceptible.
By the way, the root cause is not the power washing, but the poor design of the mirrors! It looks like the 2003 models will have the same mirrors, but with the improvements introduced....I bet people will buy even more of them regardless of the mirror problem. I guess there are more important issues then mirrors when buying, and GMC has done a good job in that dept with all the new updates. I can't wait to see one.
May 13, 2002 (9:56 am)
A journalist is looking for someone who bought one "twin" over another where the manufacturer offers two or more vehicles based on the same basic platform. (a Maxima vs. an I35 (or I30) or the TL vs. Accord)
Did you know it was basically the same vehicle as the other?
Why did you choose it over the other?
Please submit your response to jfallonedmunds.com no later than Wednesday, May 15.
#241 of 655 warranty, what did you pay?
May 15, 2002 (12:14 pm)
I was wondering what anyone else might have paid through their dealer for an extended warranty. Mine cost 995.00 for 5 years/60000 miles
#242 of 655 odor when accelerating with AC on
May 19, 2002 (7:30 pm)
I recently purchased a 2001 Savana that now has about 500 miles on it. When accelerating with the AC on, there is a strong odor inside the vehicle. It is very similar to the smell of natural gas in a home. Has anyone else experienced this or have any suggestions? I'm looking for some background before we take it into the dealership.
May 30, 2002 (5:51 pm)
I recall an odor that faintly smelled of ammonia. I reported it, they replaced a filter, it eventually went away.
#244 of 655 tranny secret warranty?
Jun 04, 2002 (11:53 am)
I have a '99 Savana 1500, 5.7 liter engine, 43,000 miles, never towed anything, no extended warranty. The tranny is slipping, and when cold, does't want to shift out of 1st gear. The dealership has looked at it, run a diagnostic, and said they think a valve is sticking in the valve body. However, they can't tell more without taking the tranny apart. That alone will cost $300 (which would be deducted from the final cost of the repair if I have them do it right then, while the tranny is opened up, otherwise I'm out $300 if I tell them not to fix it, even if I end up having them do the work at another time). I was also quoted $1200 for a new valve body if it can't be fixed, or $2500 for a new tranny, if necessary. No price quote for a rebuilt tranny.
I've read this message board, and I know that a lot of the owners here have had similar tranny problems, also at low mileages, like mine.
Anyone here been able to get GMC to fix it without charge? Are there any secret warranties on transmissions for the Savana (or the same transmission in, say, a GM or GMC pickup truck)?
The service rep and the mechanic I spoke with were both surprised that I hadn't had the tranny serviced yet; apparently they advise all their customers to get their first tranny service at 30,000 miles. I had been following the owner's manual fairly consistently regarding what services to do when, and the first transmission service isn't scheduled until 50,000 miles. BTW, I bought this van at a different dealership - who never said anything about getting the tranny serviced 20,000 miles before GM's owner's manual says to do it.
Never had any problems with my mirrors - they're solid. I also never power wash the van. Also, my ac smells musty if I haven't run it for a while, meaning several days to several months.
If anyone here has any advice or comments on dealing with GM regarding anything I've mentioned here, I would appreciate it.
PS - Should I have the tranny work done at the dealership or at a transmission specialty mechanic?
#245 of 655 Hey Momof05
Jun 04, 2002 (5:30 pm)
The a/c smell is less likely to be a problem if you run the fan (heat on even better) to dry out the evaporator under your dash for a bit before you park. All that humidity has to end up as mildew. Another common practice I have heard is to spray Lysol through the intake vents along the bottom of the windshield while your blower fan is on HIGH. That should kill the odor quick.
YOur problem with the tranny is common with the 1500 series van, not the 2500/3500 vans that come with the heavy duty 4L80E transmission(not all 2500 cargo vans have this tranny, it must be ordered, while it'standard on passenger vans in this class). I would also prefer a tranny shop to the dealership once your out of warranty. Most dealers do not do tranny work and contract it out and will bill you extra. Unless the dealer tells you they do it themselves, why pay them to send it out.