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Vans & Minivans Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions 
4276 messages, Last post on Oct 23, 2006 at 1:11 AM
You are in the Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan Forum. Your Host is Karens
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Replying to: thefoxman7 (Jul 25, 2006 11:41 am) |
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hello,,,i have a 01 grand caravan......but i have water coming under the dash......im told the heater core in driver side.....but water drops on pass...any info would be great...... thanks,
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Replying to: codered (Jul 28, 2006 1:12 pm) |
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I have a 2002 grand voyager since new, after an hour in heavy traffic the radio goes off, the wipers don't work, power windows don't work ,a/c climate doesn't work. If the switch is turned off every thing works fine. Went to the dealer and after five days said he couldn't find any thing wrong. any help would be very much appreciated.
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I have a 1996 Grand Caravan that has developed a interminent problem. While driving steady at about 50-60 MPH the van starts to lose power almost like it was a carborated engine that went to full choke. RPM's drop to 800-1000, check engine light comes on at first steady and then starts to flash. Dealer has looked at the van three times to the tune of 2200.00 dollars so far with the problem arising again. They have replaced the following items: Plugs, wires, coil pack, fuel filter, both O2 sensors, cataylic convertor. Cleaned the entire fuel system from tank to injectors. All three times that they scanned the system it comes back as a multi-fire mis problem. Anybody have any ideas
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Replying to: ewcooper (Jul 30, 2006 8:45 am) My guess would be the fuel pump but it could also be a grounding issue. They should be able to run a diagnostic on the fuel pump to see if it is delivering the pressure and volume it is supposed to. |
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I have a 2001 T&C driven 75,000 miles with a 3.8L engine and 6 mos on a new battery. The starter would turn the engine normally but the engine would require several revolutions to start, the driver's window would refuse to close on occasion, and the right powered sliding door would or would not operate at times. I took a close look at the battery’s positive terminal connection. I removed the clamp and applied a piece of medium grit sandpaper inside the large terminal hole of the clamp to remove tarnish and get down to bare metal. Next, and this is the IMPORTANT part, I likewise sanded down to bare metal the side of the battery terminal clamp where the 2nd, smaller cable mates. Finally, I sanded to bare metal the side of the smaller cable’s grommet where it mates to the larger cable‘s newly sanded surface. After bolting the battery cable connection to a polished battery post, the starter turns the engine faster, the engine starts within a half revolution, the driver’s window zips up and down , and the power sliding door does its job normally. To finish the job, a layer of old fashioned grease (Vaseline works fine) was applied to the whole assembly to prevent air from getting to and tarnishing the newly cleaned connections. Do not use a spray-on lube as it will penetrate between the mated surfaces and act as an insulator. |
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Replying to: codered (Jul 28, 2006 1:12 pm) Lisa |
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Replying to: trashman1980 (Jul 18, 2006 7:38 pm) |
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