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4276 messages,  Last post on Oct 23, 2006 at 1:11 AM

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What is this discussion about? Dodge Caravan, Dodge Grand Caravan, Chrysler Voyager, Plymouth Voyager, Chrysler Town and Country, Van

#4077 of 4276 Re: 02 GC Check Engine Light [mfahey1] by danieldkk Jul 08, 2006 (8:43 pm)
Replying to: mfahey1 (Jul 01, 2006 2:50 pm) May I ask where the Charcoal cannister is? Replies to this message: mfahey1 (Jul 10, 2006 4:45 pm)
#4078 of 4276 Re: wiper problems [97vanowner] by shg1027 Jul 09, 2006 (8:29 am)
Replying to: 97vanowner (May 08, 2005 5:24 pm) Don't know if you have fixed your problem with the wipers but mine was doing the same thing. I received a recall concerning the clockspring. When I had that done it fixed my problem. Hope this helps.
#4079 of 4276 Re: 02 GC Check Engine Light [danieldkk] by mfahey1 Jul 10, 2006 (4:45 pm)
Replying to: danieldkk (Jul 08, 2006 8:43 pm) I believe it is in the general area of the gas tank. There will be a hose coming off of the tank to collect the fumes and if you trace where it goes, you'll find the cannister.
#4080 of 4276 Re: DODGE CARAVAN PROBLEMS,PLEASE HELP! [denise05172531] by stormdragon69 Jul 12, 2006 (12:03 am)
Replying to: denise05172531 (Jun 26, 2006 2:41 pm) I own a 98 Grand Voyager LE and had similar problems. Gradually things started acting up all over the place. I was beginning to think I might have a bad alternator, or might have to replace the computer. Reading on another site I found out that others have had similar problems. Apparently the lead-type battery that the Voyager or Caravan uses is notorious for getting corroded. We cleaned the terminals and cable ends with a solution of baking soda and water and then re-fastened them, and it seems to be fine. Before you spend money at a garage and replace things that don't need replacing, try cleaning your battery connections (and make sure they're good and tight). It might just fix your problems.
#4081 of 4276 Evaporator by amazon Jul 13, 2006 (5:34 am)
I got the diagnosis for my non functioning A/C on my '94 Plymouth Voyager with the single system: 1. Compressor leaking (I can change this myself) 2. Receiver/ dryer leaking (I can do this)   3. Evaporator leaking   How do I change the evaporator? I heard that you have to remove the whole instrument panel. Is this true? Also, how can you see the dye without removing the dash board then?
#4082 of 4276 01 DGC EX Spark Plug and Wire Replacement by masterpaul1 Jul 13, 2006 (5:06 pm)
Hello Everyone,   I was at the dealer for a routine oil change today and was told that the spark plug wires are developing cracks and need to be replaced. This is something that I would like to do myself. I have read/heard how hard it is to get at the back three plugs. The service guy told me that they would have to remove the wiper crawl, or something like that. Has anybody every done it this way? What are the steps? How much time did it take?   Thanks and Have a Blessed Day. Replies to this message: shipo (Jul 13, 2006 6:02 pm) masterpaul1 (Jul 14, 2006 4:36 pm) mfahey1 (Jul 14, 2006 12:28 pm) masterpaul1 (Jul 14, 2006 4:38 pm) mfahey1 (Jul 15, 2006 11:40 am)
#4083 of 4276 Re: 01 DGC EX Spark Plug and Wire Replacement [masterpaul1] by shipo Jul 13, 2006 (6:02 pm)
Replying to: masterpaul1 (Jul 13, 2006 5:06 pm) I've heard of may folks doing the wires and plugs without messing with the Cowl cover. That having been said, it looks a heck of a lot easier to do with the cover off.   Per the manual that I just got in the mail yesterday, the R&R of the Cowl Cover is as follows:   1) Remove the wiper arms, then remove the screws that hold the lower area of the cowl cover to the wiper module. 2) Disenage the quarter-turn fastners that hold the outer ends of the cowl cover to the wiper module. 3) Open the hood and release the wingnuts that hold the front of the cowl cover to the wiper module. 4) Close the hood but do not latch it. Now remove the outboard screws and lift the cowl cover up enough to get to the washer hose. 5) Disconnect the washer hose from the right washer nozzle. Lift the cowl cover toward the windshield and off the vehicle. 6) Installation is the reverse of removal.   I hope this helps.   Best Regards, Shipo Replies to this message: masterpaul1 (Jul 14, 2006 4:36 pm)
#4084 of 4276 Potential repair in my future??? by shipo Jul 13, 2006 (7:08 pm)
Hey gang, I just had "Used Oil Analysis" (UOA) run on our 1998 3.8 DGC and the results are a mixed bag at best.   The good news is that even with 115,500 miles on the engine at the time the sample was taken, the wear numbers and such look extremely good. So, what's the bad news? Coolant. According to the report, 0.29% of my engine oil was coolant, which BTW equates to roughly five and a quarter ounces of Ethylene Glycol having made its way into my oil pan over a period of 7,500 miles. As some of y'all might know, Ethylene Glycol does LOTS of damage to engine bearings in very short order.   Stepping back and thinking about this, our van's engine got real hot one day back in the fall of 1998 (the van was about five months old then) when we were visiting some friends and took a scenic mountain road instead of the local highway. Said mountain road was VERY STEEP and the only reason why I noticed that anything was wrong at all was when the van's computer cut back on the power and limited it to only first and second gear. A quick look at what I call the "Idiot Gauge" confirmed that things were plenty hotted up under the hood. As soon as we stopped climbing, the van cooled enough to return full power to the engine and shiftability to the transmission.   The next summer (when the van was about a year old) I noticed that the coolant was about a quart low, and each and every summer since then I've needed to add a quart of coolant. All along I've just assumed that evaporation was the most likely culprit for my coolant loss. Now, with this latest information I'm thinking that it's been leaking into the oil pan all along. Was the hot engine event of 1998 responsible for the slow leak? Don't know. Is the leak a result of a blown head gasket? A cracked or warped head or heads? They are aluminum after all. A cracked block? Don't know any of those either, however, my bet is a head gasket that allows coolant to make it to the oil drain galleries that carry oil from the valves and rocker arms back in to the oil pan.   So, attempting to think about this logically, my average driving speed was about 42 mph over the course of this 7,500 mile Oil Change Interval, and that means that the engine was operational for about 180 hours. Said another way, about one ounce of coolant leaked into the oil for every 34 hours of operation. Not exactly a fast leak. Oh, wait! Roughly half of coolant is water (which evaporates rapidly when the engine oil reaches operating temperature) so let's double the leakage numbers. Hmmm, one ounce of coolant every 17 hours. Still not what I would call a fast leak.   On the surface it seems that I have several options: 1) Continue to use the Mobil 1 that I've been using since the van had about 15,000 miles on the clock. I'm currently using 0W-40, and before it was widely available I used 0W-30 and before that I used 5W-30. I consider this (i.e. doing nothing different) an option because apparently the Mobil 1 is able to hold its own against the debilitating effects of the coolant contamination; after all, it seems that I've had a coolant leak for well over 100,000 miles. 2) Do the same as Option 1 except change the coolant from Ethylene Glycol to Propylene Glycol, which apparently isn't as toxic to engine bearings. 3) Buy a head gasket set and spend a weekend wrenching. 4) Buy a pair of reconditioned heads (anywhere from $150 per to $300 per) in addition to the head gasket set and spend the same weekend wrenching. 5) Pull the heads one weekend, send them out to a shop for reconditioning and put them back on the next weekend (I'd need to hitch a ride to work for a couple of days).   For the moment at least, I've decided to go with Option #2. Why? Well, one reason only. Per the Amsoil web site, they claim their Propylene Glycol coolant has the following properties: Stops Leaks AMSOIL Antifreeze & Coolant adheres to metal. It self-seals hairline cracks in welds and seams to prevent leaks, without additional stop-leak products or fibrous materials.   While I'm very opposed to "Stop Leak" products in general (I've seen too much internal damage to heater cores and radiators to trust that crud), I'm thinking that this stuff might just do the trick. I ordered three gallons (our van has the "Rear Heater" and Propylene Glycol needs a slightly higher coolant to water ratio than Ethylene Glycol) of Amsoil coolant yesterday and plan on putting it in sometime next week. I will then put another couple of thousand miles on the current engine oil and then change it at 120,000. I'm hoping that the Amsoil stuff isn't all marketing hype and has actually stopped my internal leak by the 120K mark. Unfortunately I won't find out until I hit 127,500 miles when I send in that next batch of oil for analysis.   Any thoughts or recommendations?   Oh! Sorry for the long post.   Best Regards, Shipo Replies to this message: badgerfan (Jul 14, 2006 5:10 am) shipo (Jul 14, 2006 5:38 am) badgerfan (Jul 14, 2006 6:32 am) and 1 more... mfahey1 (Jul 14, 2006 12:31 pm) shipo (Jul 14, 2006 1:40 pm) mfahey1 (Jul 15, 2006 11:44 am) and 5 more...
#4085 of 4276 Re: Potential repair in my future??? [shipo] by badgerfan Jul 14, 2006 (5:10 am)
Replying to: shipo (Jul 13, 2006 7:08 pm) I can't tell you what to do, however your experience is another good justification to stick to a 3000 mile oil change interval, with conventional nonsynthetic oil. Any contamination like you have would accumulate at a lower concentrations with frequent oil changes.   I change my own oil, buying brand name but rebated oil, generally with rebates of $.59 per quart. Filters about $3-$4. Oil change less than $8. Cheap insurance.   Given the age and value of your van at this point, I would consider using Stop Leak as well. Hard to justify dumping a lot of money in an aging vehicle.   Another option is replace it. We just bought, at the end of June, a new GC Caravan SE with Stow and Go and an option package including three row AC. Over $7K off MSRP. Just a hair over $19.5K plus TTL. Paid about $2K less than we paid for our short wheel base 1996 Caravan SE Sport ten years ago! A few less bells and whistles than the 1996, but then again a few new ones too, primarily the Stow and Go and the three zone AC.   Of course, it is always cheaper on your finances to keep an old vehicle running, if you are willing to put up with increasing levels of unreliability and repair rates.   Now my next chore is to sell the 96. Didn't trade it in as dealers will not give you squat for a ten year old in trade, despite its immaculate condition and fairly low mileage for its age, 89K. Replies to this message: shipo (Jul 14, 2006 5:38 am) badgerfan (Jul 14, 2006 6:32 am) shipo (Jul 14, 2006 6:36 am)
#4086 of 4276 Re: Potential repair in my future??? [badgerfan] by shipo Jul 14, 2006 (5:38 am)
Replying to: badgerfan (Jul 14, 2006 5:10 am) I can't tell you what to do, however your experience is another good justification to stick to a 3000 mile oil change interval, with conventional nonsynthetic oil. Any contamination like you have would accumulate at a lower concentrations with frequent oil changes.   Hmmm, interesting. I guess it all depends upon perspective. I've been using synthetic oil and extended OCIs (10K-12K miles) for the last 100,000 miles on this van, and even with the coolant contamination, the UOA (which can be seen at shipo, "Synthetic motor oil" #6389, 8 Jul 2006 9:40 am ) shows that the engine is in extremely good condition. If I was to switch to a 3,000 mile OCI, I would be changing my oil every four to five weeks, no thanks, that's just too much like work.   Regarding keeping the van and methods of keeping it running, well, I figure that I can do a complete top end overhaul for about $650 (about what, two car payments?) and given that the engine is still only consuming a quart of oil in 7,500 miles, I figure the lower end is in pretty good condition. True, the van is nearing 120,000 miles, however, it seems to be in good enough condition to easily make it to the 200K mark and then some.   As you mentioned, the other option is to buy a new one, however, given the number of miles that I'm currently driving (29,000 in the last 12 months), and the number of miles I'll be driving this time next year (the company that I'm contracting to is moving our offices twenty miles further up the road), buying new (or even used but newer that what I have) is money down the drain at a rather quick rate. I'm thinking that from a pure financial perspective, nothing is going to beat this van.   Of course, truth be told, I've had a new car every three to four years for the last quarter of a century and I really WANT another new one now. It's just that I've never had to consistently drive so many miles and so new cars made more sense from a financial perspective.   Best Regards, Shipo Replies to this message: badgerfan (Jul 14, 2006 6:32 am) shipo (Jul 14, 2006 6:36 am)

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