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4276 messages,  Last post on Oct 23, 2006 at 2:11 AM

You are in the Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan Forum.

What is this discussion about? Dodge Caravan, Dodge Grand Caravan, Chrysler Voyager, Plymouth Voyager, Chrysler Town and Country, Van

Messages Page 332 of 429

#3304 of 4276 re: 1992 Grand Voyager Brake Problems! (Shipo) by 150pilot

Oct 04, 2005 (8:00 am)

Replying to: shipo (Oct 03, 2005 10:36 am)
Thanks, Shipo!
 
I wasn't aware NAPA had different compositions of pads! That will likely solve my problem. (I'm still perplexed as to why it only affects the right side.) The last set of pads I bought were from NAPA, and I was told they were the only ones available at that time. I knew something would have to change, sooner or later, as too many people have problems with metalic pads. I think the rotors will be fine with the right pads, and I still have the good original rotors as spares, already turned. I'll try one more set of new (ceramic) pads before I change the isolation valve!
 
I don't ever use the NAPA web site anymore, unless it's after hours, and I'm desperate.
 
My earlier (my first) post was removed by the moderator, since I missed the part about not posting my e-mail (which it turns out was wrong anyway). Here's my original post (e-mail removed) so others can follow the thread. Thanks, again!
 
"1992 Grand Voyager Brake Problems!"
 
"I have been a mechanic for over 40 years, have worked on everything from Briggs&Stratton to F/A-18 Hornet jet engines (F404-400), have owned my own successful automotive repair shop, and have been a licensed aircraft mechanic since 1979! I know machines! That said, this Voyager is driving me nuts! I have owned this 1992 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE, 3.3L V6 powered vehicle since new, it has never been wrecked, and I have always had excellent service from it, now approaching 200,000 miles (no overhauls, but I do need a new timing chain). That is, until a few years ago! I replaced the front brake pads with metallic pads. I objected to using these, but as the original asbestos pads were no longer made, these were all that were available new anywhere. As I suspected would happen, problems soon surfaced. The metallic pads gave too much stopping power, overriding the vehicles front to rear braking differential system, sometimes causing both front wheels to lockup and skid (the vehicle does NOT have ABS or anti-lock brakes). I readjusted the systems rear mounted differential valve to provide more even braking. This worked great for awhile, then at some point later, the right front only again began locking up, which I determined was due to brake drag overheating the rotor and other components. I performed all of the normal troubleshooting, including disassembly, inspection, repair and systematic replacement of both front brake systems, although no discrepancies were ever found. Both calipers move equally and freely on their support bolts, and proper lubication is applied to caliper contact areas. To this point I have replaced pads (3 times) both rotors (twice), both calipers, both sets of front wheel bearings and hubs, and both front brake flex hoses. Unrelated replacements included tie rod ends, ball joints, CV axles, McPherson struts, and sway bar bushings, due to age and wear. The front end has been checked for alignment and is always close, requiring only minor adjustment! I have never found pressure trapped in any line, but I have disconnected all associated brake lines and verified they are clear of obstruction anyway. Every time I perform inspections and maintenance on the front end to correct this problem, I find nothing amiss, it goes away for a few days (coincidentally?), and shows up again shortly afterwards. I have not replaced the master cylinder, which would affect both (not just the right hand) front brakes. I have not replaced the isolation valve, as it too would affect both sides, not just one. The entire system has been flushed with DOT 3 fluid several times. Light braking pressure provides smooth even braking. More heavily applying the brakes generates progressively more violent vibration coming from the right front area, and driving on rain slicked pavement nearly always results in the right front locking up upon braking. The right front wheel area is normally smoking hot after a 20 or 30 mile drive, and the occurance is much more frequent in hot weather than in cold. I have driven this vehicle on a several hundred mile drive during cold weather without recurrance. If I could find NOS asbestos pads, I would replace everything and start over, but why does it only affect the right side? (I will replace the isolation valve next, as that's all that's left, whether it makes sense or not.) Has anyone experienced similar problems? What was the cure? I'm baffled!"

#3305 of 4276 re: 1992 Grand Voyager Brake Problems! (Shipo) [150pilot] by shipo

Oct 04, 2005 (8:25 am)

Replying to: 150pilot (Oct 04, 2005 8:00 am)
Glad I could help. FWIW, I was able to get on to the Napa site and confirm that they do in fact carry two different types of front rotors (NAPA United & Tru-Stop) for your van. Errr, better said, they carry two different rotors for vans with 14" wheels and two others for vans with 15" wheels.
 
So, what year is your 150? I'm really looking for a nice clean 170 myself. Even better, I just found a small airport near my new office that has a grass strip and teaches basic flight and tail dragger lessons in late 1940s vintage Cubs.
 
Best Regards,
Shipo

#3306 of 4276 dragging soung-plymouth voyager by williams9

Oct 04, 2005 (7:28 pm)

When I stop or slow down with my 97 Plymouth Voyager, the accelerate, I'm hearing a 'dragging' anfd rumbling sound-its a feeling as though the wheels are not moving.
 
What this maybe? any help???

#3307 of 4276 Rough Downshift 2001 Chrysler Town and Country by kbmoose1

Oct 06, 2005 (1:17 pm)

Hi - I'm new to this site. I have a 2001 Town and Country with 84,000 on it, never had any problems. Had the transmission fluid and filter changed last week by a guy who's worked on my cars for a long time, and he's been very good. Since the fluid change, the van runs smooth up to cruising speed. Slowing down, at 30 MPH, there's a distinct shudder from the trannie. My mechanic can't understand what might be causing it. He talked to some transmission people locally and they don't understand it either.
 
The transmission is slightly overfilled - when warm, the fluid level is 1/2 inch above the HOT line.
   
My mechanic is planning to drain it, change filter, and refill it next week, after he does more research.
 
Any ideas?

#3308 of 4276 Re: Rough Downshift 2001 Chrysler Town and Country [kbmoose1] by just4fun2

Oct 06, 2005 (1:42 pm)

Replying to: kbmoose1 (Oct 06, 2005 1:17 pm)
Did your mechanic use "genuine" Chrysler transmission fluid? Use only the fluid that your dealer sells for your vehicle and nothing else or you will have "big" problems.

#3309 of 4276 DODGE CARAVAN 2002 BRAKE by rachels

Oct 06, 2005 (4:28 pm)

THIS IS MY FIRST VISIT TO THIS WEBSITE, I HAVE A 2002 DODGE CARAVAN 9(CHEAPEST ONE) I RECENLTY TOOK HAD THE BRAKES REPAIRED AT MIDAS, IT COST ME ALMOST $400.00 FOR BRAKES, THE FIRST TIME I TOOK IT IN THEY REPLACED THE REAR, SECOND TIME FRONT ALL THIS HAPPENEND WITHIN A 3 MONTH TIME FRAME. AFTER THE FRONT BRAKES WERE REPLACED MY BRAKES CONTINUED TO SQUEAK, I CONTACTED MIDAS 2 WEEKS AFTER, AND THEY SAID THAT WILL HAPPEN UNTIL THE BRAKES BREAK IN???? WELL IT'S BEEN OVER 2 MONTHS AND THEY'RE STILL MAKING NOISE, I TOOK IT BACK TO MIDAS TODAY. I JUST RECEIVED A CALL FROM MIDAS, AND THEY SAID THAT PAD ARE BURNING, THEY CHECKED AND THEY SCRAPED THE BURNT PART OFF, DIDN'T REPLACE I ASKED WHY THEY STATED THAT THE PADS ARE STILL GOOD, THE CAUSE THEY SAY THAT WHEN I BRAKE ALOT THEY CAUSE THE PAD TO BURN? I'M NO MECHANIC BUT THIS DOESNT MAKES. I ASKED THE MGR. TO MAKE SURE THAT ALL THIS IS LISTED ON MY PAPERWORK, BECAUSE I'M want I want to check with the dealer about this problem. Please help, is there anyone else that has heard of this?

#3310 of 4276 Re: 1993 Plymouth Voyager 3.0 died on hwy [dootdog] by dootdog

Oct 06, 2005 (7:53 pm)

Replying to: dootdog (Aug 28, 2005 3:10 pm)
"Anyone know if a broken timing belt would trigger the computer to shut power to the engine?"
 
Just following up on this, in case someone else has a similar breakdown. It was a broken timing belt.

The so-called "five star" dealership shop would or could not test relays for me, so I had to buy a spare to switch out and discover that wasn't the problem.
 
Another bit of advice: third party fuel pumps are often weaker than what originally went into Voyager 3.0.

#3311 of 4276 Re: Rough Downshift 2001 Chrysler Town and Country [kbmoose1] by jjtj

Oct 06, 2005 (9:58 pm)

Replying to: kbmoose1 (Oct 06, 2005 1:17 pm)
I had this happen on my 03.. it was a computer problem.. I think there is a procedure for resetting the computer after a transmission service. My van calmed down after a couple of days.. I'd give it a few days before he re-does it. And like the other poster said - make sure he used ONLY Mopar ATF +4 fluid in your transmission. Dexron III (normal A/T fluid) will ruin your transmission.

#3312 of 4276 Re: Electrical problems [wendy673] by angelo567

Oct 07, 2005 (3:48 am)

Replying to: wendy673 (Jan 26, 2005 12:22 pm)
Wendy673,
 
I have a problem where my Chrysler Voyager's (Dodge Caravan) engine cuts out after some time, around 60 minutes (like when its hot). The electrical system does not respond, can't start the engine. Once the engine cuts out the alarm set light flashes on the dash. My dealer has replaced the ECM (computer) but the problem still exists.
 
I would appreciate if you could pass me any information on how you fix your problems.
 
Regards,
 
Angelo Grasso

#3313 of 4276 re: 1992 Grand Voyager Brake Problems! (Shipo) [150pilot] by joe123

Oct 07, 2005 (9:17 am)

Replying to: 150pilot (Oct 04, 2005 8:00 am)
150pilot:
 
Check your pedal free play, also your compensating ports on master cylinder.
 
I have a similar problem with a 97 Grand Voyager. Replaced front & rear brakes with rotors & drums. Now the front brakes are fine when I start driving, but after about 10-20 miles start overheating, after they cool down it goes back to normal.
I checked the freeplay on the pedal and it had none, so I thought I found the problem but after adjusting it the problem's still there. I rebuilt both calipers and no change. When the brakes are hot, the wheels are a little hard to turn, then I relaese the pressure at the bleeders and calipers retract, which tells me it is not the calipers. I pulled the master cylinder & opened it hoping to find a clogged compensating port or damaged piston seals, but everything looks fine I have many years experience in cars and with F/A-18 Hornets as you (AD machinist's mate, your rate too isn't it).
 
This vehicle has ABS, but as of today no ABS light yet.
Any Ideas/suggestions?
 
Thanks

Messages Page 332 of 429

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