Last post on Oct 23, 2006 at 1:11 AM
You are in the Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan
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Dodge Caravan, Dodge Grand Caravan, Chrysler Voyager, Plymouth Voyager, Chrysler Town and Country, Van
#3275 of 4276 No dash lights, won't start (security system?)
Sep 22, 2005 (4:26 pm)
I have seen some similar problems in this forum. I have a 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport SE. Earlier this summer, it would not start. Most of the dash lights would not turn on and it would run for about 3 seconds and stop. If you tried 3 times, it went completely dead. We had been using the key to get in because the keyless was dead. I saw an earlier post about the key entry triggering the alarm system. I replaced the battery in the keyless and we started using that but had the same problem just yesterday. The problem has been popping up since June and everytime it is the same. Three times of running 3 seconds and then nothing. We let the van sit anywhere from an hour to sometimes overnight. Go back and try again and it starts fine until the next time. Any ideas?
Sep 22, 2005 (4:30 pm)
Sounds like the chip in the key or the unit in the steering column has gone bad. The car is designed to start using a non chip key but shut down in 2 to 3 minutes if it cannot read the chip in the key.
#3277 of 4276 Noisy Stow and Go minvians Part 1
Sep 23, 2005 (11:50 am)
I will place this entry here and let the forums moderator decide if this is the proper place for it.
Topic of noise experience by at least one other owner besides myself of exhaust and other noises in 2005 S&G minivans came up in the #240 range of posts in another forum dealing with 2005+ T&C minivans.
I bought my T&C Touring with leather, luxury and trailer tow groups in mid July. From day one, it exhibited the following faults:
1. A noisy exhaust system. At any rpm over about 1300, a motor boating or glasspack muffler sound is very evident coming from the engine compartment through to the front driver/passenger area. By 2000 rpm, the noise is intolerable! I know it's coming from the front because it doesn't get any louder with the windows open.
2. A loud, irritating whine/moan from the a/c compressor at all speeds. It is especially noticeable at engine speeds below 1300 rpm when the exhaust noise isn't helping to mask it. Easy to diagnose because it vanishes the minute I switch the a/c compressor off.
3. Noise coming into the front compartment from the front wheel wells. Even at very slow speeds and over very small pavement imperfections, I not only feel the slight bump, I also hear it. The tires themselves are as good as I can expect from OE tires and really make little noise over a wide variety of pavement surfaces.
None of these noises were evident on any of the vehicles I test drove or on a couple of similar vehicles belong to neighbors. Even the beater 2005 entry-level lwb minivan my nearest Chrysler dealer uses to drive service customers home has none of them.
I went all the way up to the service manager at the dealership from which I bought the car, only to be told that all the sounds were normal - even when he and I took a vehicle off the lot and I could hear none of the noises in it, he swore that my car was the quieter of the two!
Yesterday the district service manager came to the dealer nearest me (the selling dealer is about a 70 mile round trip away and I can't afford to waste gas on unfruitful trips). I quote verbatim from the service report given me afterward in part 2 of this tale.:
#3278 of 4276 Noisy Stow and Go minivans Part 2
Sep 23, 2005 (12:08 pm)
These are actual quotes:
1. "Customer states there is a groaning/drone sound in exhaust system from engine area at 1300 RPMS and above.
Being determined by Chrysler Product Engineering
Test driven by district rep . . Confirmed noise present.
District rep notified customer that engineering is working on resolve.
Customer will be notified at that time."
2. "Customer states that there is a whine sound from engine area when a/c is running.
Normal operating condition per Chrysler district rep.
Test driven by district rep . . all sounds are normal and can be heard in like vehicles."
3. Customer states tire/suspension road noise from front end over any imperfection in roadway at any speed.
Normal operating condition per Chrysler district rep.
Test driven by district rep . . tire noises on test drive are normal and can be duplicated in like vehicles."
I really like that "... can be duplicated in like vehicles." Sheeesh - even the droning exhaust sound can be "duplicated in like vehicles," it seems - DC engineers wouldn't be working on a fix if it couldn't!
So . . . I'm batting .333 at the moment. At least I got someone to admit that DC knows it has a problem with NVH in one area. I might have gotten a higher average if I had had the time to hang around waiting for the rep to show up, but I had other things that had to be done that day. He only shows in my area once a month, anyway. Now I just have to keep badgering DC about my other two beefs because I KNOW that other DC minivans don't sound like that!
If the noises were coming from the redesigned floor pan area that was changed for stow and go, I might be more tolerant, But I really can't see that DC has made any major changes in the driver's area forward.
Watch this space for further developments.
#3279 of 4276 Re: Noisy Stow and Go minivans Part 2 [veritasusa]
Sep 24, 2005 (3:41 am)
i'm curious - i don't own a DC, but i thought i'd toss out some stuff (minivan driver to minivan driver). these are things i might check if i were faced with a similar set of issues.
if you place some sound deadening material in the Stow-N-Go area, does it mitigate the noise at all?
does your vehicle use the exact same tires (manufacturer and model) as the other vehicles you test drove that were quieter? the tires (composition and tread design) can have quite a dramatic impact on road noise. plus - check tire inflation pressure. are you at the extreme of the tire manufacturer rating? you might want to consider adjusting inflation and see if that mitigates at all.
did you have someone look underneath the vehicle? i'm thinking one mis-aligned or missing exhaust system hanger, or some heat shield, and it's possible a resonance in one are of the piping could induce a resonance in another area. think of a string plucked under different tensions. depending upon tension, you get a different number of standing waves (thus different frequencies - more tension, higher frequency, and potentially different amplitude (wave height)). maybe your vehicle has a hanger or shield that is not connected properly, or making contact with the underbody of the vehicle.
#3280 of 4276 Re: Failure of rear brake lines '96 T&C [tsu670]
Sep 24, 2005 (6:46 am)
My Dodge Caravan, 1998 has just had a similar failure of the brake lines - Rusted through where the braided line meets the solid line, along the left frame just past the junction block. No collection of debris, just two rusting lines - dripping clear brake fluid. Vehicle is still solid at 124K, but for the price we pay, and with maintenance (that the dealer does) I would expect more.
I'm almost certain the dealer will claim no knowledge of this kind of problem, as he did for a head gasket problem a few years ago. (I paid for that replacement - 78,000 miles).
How do we get their attention to the problems/dangers?
#3281 of 4276 Power steering pump belt adjustment
Sep 24, 2005 (12:18 pm)
Hi..Im attempting a timing belt & water pump replacement on my just purchased 98' Voyager with a 2.4l. 4.
Ive done this on other cars before but every new car is a challenge.
The only problem Im having is getting the power steering pump to budge after loosening the 2 bolts that APPARENTLY are suppose to be for slacking it up for removal...... NO dice! & I cant see the entire pump since it sits low behind the head.
Ive cut the belt off so it doesnt slow my progress down but eventually Ill have to get a new belt on it....
Any ideas, tips, etc on how the pump swings free?...is it frozen?....and there really isnt any place to get a pry bar behind it to try & worry it lose.
Thanx in advance!..
#3282 of 4276 Re: Failure of rear brake lines '96 T&C [ch42howard]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Sep 24, 2005 (3:38 pm)
I don't think the dealer or Chrysler is responsible at that kind of mileage....sounds almost like an electrolysis issue....strange.....do you live in a place where they salt the roads at all, or do you live near the ocean?
#3283 of 4276 Re: Failure of rear brake lines '96 T&C [Mr_Shiftright]
Sep 24, 2005 (6:14 pm)
Good possibilities, however, in Frederick MD, they don't salt the roads and we're nearly 80 miles from any salt water, not that I drive near there more than a couple times a year. The rest of the brake lines are clean and solid - no rust- just the area where the braid meets the steel of the lines is rusted - and rusted through.
#3284 of 4276 Re: Rear Brake Light Bulbs are good, but do not work [westfork]
Sep 25, 2005 (6:17 am)
Howdy.... I have a 2001 and for the life of me I can figure out how to get to the rear bulbs.... I have a right rear brake light out and cannot seem to find any way to get to it without taking apart the whole rear paneling......
As far as your problem..... it sounds like a grounding problem from the socket.... just for kicks run a ground wire to the bulb .......