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4276 messages,  Last post on Oct 23, 2006 at 1:11 AM

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What is this discussion about? Dodge Caravan, Dodge Grand Caravan, Chrysler Voyager, Plymouth Voyager, Chrysler Town and Country, Van

#2690 of 4276 Re: 2001 Grand Caravan trans problem [motoringmama] by mkc4hire May 03, 2005 (2:47 pm)
Replying to: motoringmama (Apr 30, 2005 10:54 am) I don't know if this is going to help. I've owned several Dodge and Plymouth vans. Not for the machinery but for the drive. They are the best in driveability. Transmissions are their biggest flaw and Chrystler and every transmission shop around well and knows it. Every over-drive transmission I've owned has died between 80-100,000 miles. The last van I bought was a 1997 Plymouth voyager with a 3 speed. These were not supposed to have the chrystler curse on them. It lasted to 115, 000 miles. The transmission guy told me they usually see 160,000 out of them but that is the usual kill point.        To answer your question, it sounds like you may have a failing torque converter or your transmission has slipped and your plates are glazed. Niether one would show typically until the oil viscosity has thinned out to a minimum. If you have paid a service fee and they found nothing, they should be willing to do the second for free if still existing. I would hold them to that.        The greatest lesson I've learned is to get away from typical ATF. No more "special ATF 4" or anything else. Chrystler is not addressing the problems with their products so you have to arm yourself. Go to a good durable synthetic like AMSOIL. It exceeds your warranty and it will double your life. A regular fill is about $50-70 and the flush will probably run you a couple hundred but compared to a $2500 rebuild it is gravy. Typical ATF starts it's break down around 240 degrees. AMSOIL and like products start around 440 degrees.This ensures the molecular thickness is sufficient all the way back to the pan dramatically reducing friction, heat and ultimately wear.      Also, Chrystler is serious about re-torquing the bands every 30, 000 miles. The first time it slips, you are on your way to transmission failure. If you do your own work, one band adjustment is outside the unit, one is inside the unit. If you run AMSOIL, just filter the oil before re-use. Oil never wears out it just becomes too contaminated to do it's job. I would advise all chrystler owners to get a plug kit to install in pan and to use gaskets with rubber impregnated cork (usually found at NAPA). These tips will help you keep a happy van.
#2691 of 4276 Strut Tower rusting problem on 96 and newer DC minivans by 99tcandalero May 04, 2005 (1:48 am)
There have been no recent posts on the strut tower rusting problem. Our 1999 Town and Country driver's side strut tower is getting to the point where I am getting concerned it may bust out the top if the vehicle accidently hits a large pothole. The passenger's side is not as bad, but will need attention soon. I need to now how people have been adddressing this problem, is there some kit available from the dealers? Replies to this message: shipo (May 04, 2005 3:50 am)
#2692 of 4276 Re: Strut Tower rusting problem on 96 and newer DC minivans [99tcandalero] by shipo May 04, 2005 (3:50 am)
Replying to: 99tcandalero (May 04, 2005 1:48 am) Where do you see this rust?   I just checked our 1998 GC, and there isn't a spot of rust on either strut tower, inside the engine compartment or underneath in the wheel well. Is there something I'm missing? I'm thinking that if this is a universal problem, our van if any would have it since it began its life in the winter road salt region of northern New Jersey, and now spends its days in southern New Hampshire and Massachusetts.   Best Regards, Shipo
#2693 of 4276 Strut tower rust is a problem only ... by vcheng May 04, 2005 (4:29 am)
... on certain vehicles where there was a problem with the quality of one of the body stampings, which created a void that traps mud and salt etc. There is a Chrysler approved repair kit that is bonded and riveted on top of the affected parts and properly rustproofed.   My 99 has only a few specks of rust at that point, no more than the few others showing up after 6 years in upstate NY. Replies to this message: 99tcandalero (May 04, 2005 6:59 pm)
#2694 of 4276 Re: When one replaces the battery .... [vcheng] by chuck7429 May 04, 2005 (5:14 am)
Replying to: vcheng (May 02, 2005 7:40 am) I followed your recommendation last night and disconnected the battery for ~20 minutes. After reconnecting the battery the radio and clock were again functional. I tried letting the radio time out after turning the ignition off - without opening the driver door. The radio and clock functioned through several cycles of ignition on then off and waiting until the radio timed out. Afther that the radio and clock continued to function normally.   Until this morning.   Today I started the vehicle and "yahoo" the radio worked (after sitting overnight). But.....I stopped for gas after about a ~25 minute drive. Afterwards the radio and clock would not function.
#2695 of 4276 Re: 91 caravan heater/AC fan issue [mdjbhouse] by ru3yr May 04, 2005 (5:21 am)
Replying to: mdjbhouse (Mar 19, 2005 6:38 pm) U probably blew a fuseable link (A wire that acts like a fuse) U need to splice in a new Piece. $5 for the wire at local auto parts
#2696 of 4276 Re: '01 G Caravan Instrument Failures/Shutting Off [5bucks] by chuckg May 04, 2005 (5:57 am)
Replying to: 5bucks (May 03, 2005 10:58 am) 5bucks- Here's where I'd start toward a fix. I'm not familiar with your vehicle but I don't think you'll have any problems attempting this:   1. Based upon the Intrepid solution, I would remove the cladding that surrounds the steering column and check for any pinched or bare wires. I have done this before on my '94 New Yorker and it wasn't difficult at all. I didn't need any special tools and I didn't need to remove the steering wheel to get at it. Just take your time and be careful. While in there, I would also replace the ignition switch. Disconnect the negative battery cable before doing this.   Also, you may want to try banging with your hand on the steering column and moving your adjustable steering wheel up and down. Maybe that will loosen something up.   I had a bad ignition switch on my New Yorker. It did all sorts of strange things to the car. I was told that Chrysler has problems with their ignition switches. Don't know if this is true but the new switch fixed my problems. I had a mechanic track this down, but if it happened again I'd do it myself.   2. I've read posts on this board that people who had electrical problems solved them by replacing the battery. How old is your battery?   Make sure you post back what you did and your solution. This helps everyone reading this board.
#2697 of 4276 Replacing upper door stoppers on driver and passenger sliding doors by masterpaul1 May 04, 2005 (7:47 am)
I need to replace both the top and bottom door stoppers on both sliding doors. (I have the rubber stoppers). When the dealer tried to install them, the stoppers wouldn't stay in the hole on the door because the metal is pushed in where you place the stoppers. (Not sure how this happened, but my guess is from the old stoppers when making contact with the body of the van when the doors are being slide closed). They told me in order to fix the problem, they would have to knock the dent out which would take about an hours time and cost around $30.00. I figured that I can save us the $30.00 by attempting to do it myself. Any ideas as to how to pull or knock the metal out on the sliding doors? Thanks Replies to this message: badgerfan (May 04, 2005 9:46 am)
#2698 of 4276 Re: 1997 grand caravan fuel gauge warning problem [jeffw1] by huggybear2 May 04, 2005 (9:34 am)
Replying to: jeffw1 (Apr 25, 2005 1:49 pm) jeffw1,   I have a 96 Grand Caravan and I am experiencing the same problem. Please advise the solution to this problem. What was the cost? I was wandering if a person could just disconnect the wire (which one? what color) from the sensor, however you would still have the indicating light on instrument panel, however the dinging would go away.   It is driving my wife up the wall.   Thanks,   HuggyBear2
#2699 of 4276 Re: Replacing upper door stoppers on driver and passenger sliding doors [masterpaul1] by badgerfan May 04, 2005 (9:46 am)
Replying to: masterpaul1 (May 04, 2005 7:47 am) You must have some real gorillas slamming your sliding doors shut!   I would try something like this: Go to your local hardware store, and buy several of the largest size fender washers that will fit through the round opening. Then buy a hex bolt threaded all the way to the head, and a hex nut, and assemble the washers to the bolt and tighten the nut. Put the head and washers through the hole, and grab the end of the bolt with a large vise grips pliers, offseting the bolt from the hole center line and pull toward you. You may be able to pull the metal back flush with the frame for a portion of the hole. Move around the circle and do this repeatedly and you probably will be able to bend it back into place. When you put the new rubber bumper back in, use some clear silicone caulk in the rubber bumper groove to hold it in place better. I lost one of these bumpers on our Caravan for no known reason, and when I replaced it, I did this caulk job so I would not lose the replacement. The hole was not deformed on mine, however.   Then stop feeding your kids and wife spinach so they lose some of that strength!   -----An engineer who likes to improvise and save a few bucks wherever possible!

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