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4276 messages,  Last post on Oct 23, 2006 at 1:11 AM

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#2687 of 4276 Re: 1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager Transmission [cowboy5] by clivepocock May 03, 2005 (1:33 am)
Replying to: cowboy5 (Apr 03, 2005 5:42 pm) Hi   I have exactly the same problem with my 95 Dodge Grand Voyager. It's been in top the dealer three times to try and resolve and they can't find anything wrong. Eventually the transmission acted like the clutch was slipping when under load i.e. lots of revving with little or no forward motion and a bad burning smell. I sent it into a little transmission shop and he has had the unit apart several times but not able to fix it. He is replacing the unit with a secondhand one. Hopefully that will resolve our problem. BTW I bought the Dodge in Kansas but it now resides in the UK (120k miles later )!
#2688 of 4276 Re: '01 G Caravan Instrument Failures/Shutting Off [asievers] by 5bucks May 03, 2005 (10:58 am)
Replying to: asievers (Mar 28, 2005 7:30 pm) Hi,   Has anyone gotten anywhere with the instrument panel failure? I have a 98 Grand Voyager. This problem has been going on for 2+ years now. Initially it was very intermittent. Everything would go dead for a few minutes then come back. Over time the period of non functioning has become longer and longer. At one point they were out for 3 months, then came back for a few weeks. Only to go out again. This is very frustrating. I've read the stories of others going to dealers for new body control modules etc and paying over $400 with no resolution to the problem. Here's what I've tried so far:   1. Checked and reseated every fuse and relay in the vehicle 2. Disconnected battery for 30 minutes in hopes of ressetting the BCM. Checked/cleaned all battery connections. 3. Reseated all electrical harnesses under the dash. 4. Tried to find the BCM ground which I read somewhere was located on the passenger side B pillar - couldn't find anything that looked like a ground   Some other interesting details: 1. I definetly lose some engine power/performance when the gauges go out - it's not huge, put don't have the same kind of passing power as when the gauges are working. Very noticeable when trying to pass uphill at highway speeds. 2. Check engine light always comes on when problem starts but then goes off after driving for 10-20 minutes 3. Cruise control still works (minus the dashboard indicator light) normally when the dash goes out. 4. Low fuel audible "ding" still sounds (minus he dashboard indicator light) when the dash is out. 5. Intermittent wipers function somewhat intermittently when the dash is out. They'll swipe a few times, then I have to adjust the timing knob to get them to swipe again. 6. Red LED indicators for A/C, rear wiper, and fresh air bypass flash a constant and consistent on/off with no pattern for about ten minutes when the van is started without the guages working. I had read that these lights can display trouble codes.   I've been trying to find a cause/solution to this problem for over 2 years now. I have yet to read of anyone with a solution - someone please help Replies to this message: 5bucks (May 03, 2005 11:14 am) chuckg (May 04, 2005 5:57 am)
#2689 of 4276 Re: '01 G Caravan Instrument Failures/Shutting Off [5bucks] by 5bucks May 03, 2005 (11:14 am)
Replying to: 5bucks (May 03, 2005 10:58 am) Just found this on another forum...   Question: 1994 Dodge Intrepid 3.5 mileage: 85000. I also have a problem with my 1994 Intrepid. The engine is a 3.5, with 85,000 miles. The gauges have been working on and off for about three months. The dealer's mechanics have not been able to find the problem as the car is in the shop for the third time. The problem seems to get worse over time. If I pull the battery cable, and replace after a couple hours, the problem will go away for a while. I have even seen the gauges pegged when started, and come to life after about ten seconds. They have replaced the module on the trans, and think it may be another. At about $160/parts per try, I am getting desperate. The problem will occur when the car is cold or hot, sometimes the ignition has to be turned on and off for over twenty cycles before the gauges will work. The air bag light will also come on whether the gauges work or not.   Answer: Without seeing your car, it is impossible for us to help you here. Intermittent electrical problems are the most difficult to find. Your gauges have circuit boards with hundreds of solder joints. If there is just one joint that has moved and cracked the solder, it could cause the problem you described. In addition, an improper ground connection anywhere in the system could be the culprit. We wish we could help you more.   Follow-up: Well, the dealer's mechanic finally found the gauge problem. It was a wire in the ignition harness. At least that was what they told me. The ignition and wiring was replaced, +$400 and the car is running great. It took them a while but they found it. Hope this helps others out there, I feel this problem is very wide spread. Thanks 2CARPROS
#2690 of 4276 Re: 2001 Grand Caravan trans problem [motoringmama] by mkc4hire May 03, 2005 (2:47 pm)
Replying to: motoringmama (Apr 30, 2005 10:54 am) I don't know if this is going to help. I've owned several Dodge and Plymouth vans. Not for the machinery but for the drive. They are the best in driveability. Transmissions are their biggest flaw and Chrystler and every transmission shop around well and knows it. Every over-drive transmission I've owned has died between 80-100,000 miles. The last van I bought was a 1997 Plymouth voyager with a 3 speed. These were not supposed to have the chrystler curse on them. It lasted to 115, 000 miles. The transmission guy told me they usually see 160,000 out of them but that is the usual kill point.        To answer your question, it sounds like you may have a failing torque converter or your transmission has slipped and your plates are glazed. Niether one would show typically until the oil viscosity has thinned out to a minimum. If you have paid a service fee and they found nothing, they should be willing to do the second for free if still existing. I would hold them to that.        The greatest lesson I've learned is to get away from typical ATF. No more "special ATF 4" or anything else. Chrystler is not addressing the problems with their products so you have to arm yourself. Go to a good durable synthetic like AMSOIL. It exceeds your warranty and it will double your life. A regular fill is about $50-70 and the flush will probably run you a couple hundred but compared to a $2500 rebuild it is gravy. Typical ATF starts it's break down around 240 degrees. AMSOIL and like products start around 440 degrees.This ensures the molecular thickness is sufficient all the way back to the pan dramatically reducing friction, heat and ultimately wear.      Also, Chrystler is serious about re-torquing the bands every 30, 000 miles. The first time it slips, you are on your way to transmission failure. If you do your own work, one band adjustment is outside the unit, one is inside the unit. If you run AMSOIL, just filter the oil before re-use. Oil never wears out it just becomes too contaminated to do it's job. I would advise all chrystler owners to get a plug kit to install in pan and to use gaskets with rubber impregnated cork (usually found at NAPA). These tips will help you keep a happy van.
#2691 of 4276 Strut Tower rusting problem on 96 and newer DC minivans by 99tcandalero May 04, 2005 (1:48 am)
There have been no recent posts on the strut tower rusting problem. Our 1999 Town and Country driver's side strut tower is getting to the point where I am getting concerned it may bust out the top if the vehicle accidently hits a large pothole. The passenger's side is not as bad, but will need attention soon. I need to now how people have been adddressing this problem, is there some kit available from the dealers? Replies to this message: shipo (May 04, 2005 3:50 am)
#2692 of 4276 Re: Strut Tower rusting problem on 96 and newer DC minivans [99tcandalero] by shipo May 04, 2005 (3:50 am)
Replying to: 99tcandalero (May 04, 2005 1:48 am) Where do you see this rust?   I just checked our 1998 GC, and there isn't a spot of rust on either strut tower, inside the engine compartment or underneath in the wheel well. Is there something I'm missing? I'm thinking that if this is a universal problem, our van if any would have it since it began its life in the winter road salt region of northern New Jersey, and now spends its days in southern New Hampshire and Massachusetts.   Best Regards, Shipo
#2693 of 4276 Strut tower rust is a problem only ... by vcheng May 04, 2005 (4:29 am)
... on certain vehicles where there was a problem with the quality of one of the body stampings, which created a void that traps mud and salt etc. There is a Chrysler approved repair kit that is bonded and riveted on top of the affected parts and properly rustproofed.   My 99 has only a few specks of rust at that point, no more than the few others showing up after 6 years in upstate NY. Replies to this message: 99tcandalero (May 04, 2005 6:59 pm)
#2694 of 4276 Re: When one replaces the battery .... [vcheng] by chuck7429 May 04, 2005 (5:14 am)
Replying to: vcheng (May 02, 2005 7:40 am) I followed your recommendation last night and disconnected the battery for ~20 minutes. After reconnecting the battery the radio and clock were again functional. I tried letting the radio time out after turning the ignition off - without opening the driver door. The radio and clock functioned through several cycles of ignition on then off and waiting until the radio timed out. Afther that the radio and clock continued to function normally.   Until this morning.   Today I started the vehicle and "yahoo" the radio worked (after sitting overnight). But.....I stopped for gas after about a ~25 minute drive. Afterwards the radio and clock would not function.
#2695 of 4276 Re: 91 caravan heater/AC fan issue [mdjbhouse] by ru3yr May 04, 2005 (5:21 am)
Replying to: mdjbhouse (Mar 19, 2005 6:38 pm) U probably blew a fuseable link (A wire that acts like a fuse) U need to splice in a new Piece. $5 for the wire at local auto parts
#2696 of 4276 Re: '01 G Caravan Instrument Failures/Shutting Off [5bucks] by chuckg May 04, 2005 (5:57 am)
Replying to: 5bucks (May 03, 2005 10:58 am) 5bucks- Here's where I'd start toward a fix. I'm not familiar with your vehicle but I don't think you'll have any problems attempting this:   1. Based upon the Intrepid solution, I would remove the cladding that surrounds the steering column and check for any pinched or bare wires. I have done this before on my '94 New Yorker and it wasn't difficult at all. I didn't need any special tools and I didn't need to remove the steering wheel to get at it. Just take your time and be careful. While in there, I would also replace the ignition switch. Disconnect the negative battery cable before doing this.   Also, you may want to try banging with your hand on the steering column and moving your adjustable steering wheel up and down. Maybe that will loosen something up.   I had a bad ignition switch on my New Yorker. It did all sorts of strange things to the car. I was told that Chrysler has problems with their ignition switches. Don't know if this is true but the new switch fixed my problems. I had a mechanic track this down, but if it happened again I'd do it myself.   2. I've read posts on this board that people who had electrical problems solved them by replacing the battery. How old is your battery?   Make sure you post back what you did and your solution. This helps everyone reading this board.

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