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4276 messages, Last post on Oct 23, 2006 at 1:11 AM
You are in the Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan Forum. Your Host is Karens
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1. Torque converter shudder: (check fluid levels in the transmission, right type of fluid, worn clutch packs) 2. Worn CV joints. (check boots, grease, free play) 3. Worn ball joints and/or tie-rod ends. (thorough front end inspection) |
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Replying to: jose4 (Mar 27, 2005 10:56 am) Cumilyeon |
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We recently bought a 92 grand voyager. It now has been going through belts very frequently. I have replaced the power steering pump and the tensioner pully. Yet the problem still presists. Any help would be apreciated. Cumilyeon
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Replying to: cumilyeon (Apr 11, 2005 8:48 am) |
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i have a 96 grand voyger and the front end shakes really badly when doing speeds of 40-45miles per hr. at higher speeds the viabaration is still there but not as noticeable. have any suggestions
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Replying to: KarenS (Oct 25, 1999 6:01 pm) intermittent torque converter lock up at idle in gear..causes lurch forward and stall, shop is unable to duplicate problem, seems to happen when cold outside and first started, no codes were found during scan {van has an overdrive lockout button on dash] Thanks, Ed in Toronto |
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Check the tensioner pulley very carefully. I had the belt come off once in six years of ownership, and it was caused by an aftermarket tensioner that was just a tad off alignment. A new OEM part from Dodge cured it. I compared the OEM and aftermarket tensioners carefully. All the dimensions are spot on correct when you are holding both outside the car. However there is one big difference: The OEM part has the tensioner spring lie flat against the bracket, while on the aftermarket part, the spring is enclosed, and only the stud keeps the tensoner flat once you put on the belt. That, I think, is the reason, the aluminum casing warps just a little, causing the misalignment. There is a new OEM part where the roller pulley is made of plastic. I am not too keen on this change, but that is one I have on my vehicle now, and so far, so good. |
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I have a 2002 T&C AWD with 60K miles. It has been a great vehicle except for the clunky 2-1 coasting downshift and the classic engine lifter valley corner oil leak. I documented the oil leak but refused a warrantee repair because I didn't want the repair possibly screwed up etc. It really doesn't use oil. Anyway, a question for the forum experts please. In reading this transmission forum, it is somewhat apparent that a DIY transmission oil change might not be prudent. I have the repair manual and it really doesn’t mention this loss of prime and control unit reset issue. Since I do as much of my own service as possible I had thought this oil change would be a piece of cake. What exactly are these issues and what specifically will this loss of prime do if you just drive it “carefully (?)” and let the transmission “adapt”? Also, is the DC reset routine built entirely into the tool or do they also get new flash via their intranet hook-up. Does anyone sell a reset tool? Waiting to get down and dirty with transmission oil, BobCat |
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Replying to: dustyk (Mar 27, 2005 2:04 pm) Thanks very much for your reply. I happended to have changed the fuel cap on my 2001 Town & Country minivan, had the light reset, but I continue to get the light after a few days. Any other ideas? |
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Replying to: masterpaul1 (Mar 24, 2005 12:29 pm) Thanks. |
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