Last post on Oct 27, 2013 at 1:07 PM
You are in the GMC Safari & Chevy Astro
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GMC Safari, Chevrolet Astro, Van
#1940 of 1973 91 Chevy Astro, electrical short?
Aug 30, 2010 (9:57 pm)
Our alternator sounded like it was full of rocks, lovely sound when your driving. Of course after the shop quoted me $280 to replace it I decided to do it myself for less than half the cost.
I followed procedure as with any electrical repair, disconnecting the battery, then all the wiring to the alternator, and then removed and replaced it.
The van ran just fine, the ammeter was just over the halfway mark. We went to town, and on the way home turned on the headlights, the battery light came on…. So of course I eliminated every possibility and ended up exchanging the alternator for another as faulty, replaced it with the same procedure, again the ammeter was just over half and no obvious issues. Then the gauge panel dropped, voltage dropped to 0 from the alternator and of course the battery dropped dead leaving me stranded on the off ramp of the highway with no such thing as a good Samaritan to help out. I got it down to where we purchased the alternator and they claimed it was a “pre-existing” condition and not caused by either alternator…. However other than awful bearings the old alternator worked fine, so I am arguing the point with them, one of theirs is a result of my new issues.
They are claiming I have a short, that the battery wire from the alternator through the fuseable link to the battery is burned out/melted and shorting my entire system. How exactly would such have occurred when I merely replaced the alternator? Where should I even begin to look for this “short”? the symptoms are as follows.
The 20 amp fuse that protects the gauges burns only minutes after starting the van leaving no instruments working. An ammeter connected to the positive battery terminal and grounded to the vehicle reads the same voltage as the battery, there is continuity on each of the 4 fuseable links, however none to the battery cable that connects to the back of the alternator leaving me to believe there was a weak spot on that wire that burned through and has shorted it all out? The only issue prior to this is misreading oil/gas gauges, and an intermittent check engine light. Prior to the fuse burning on the gauges, the headlights “on” buzzer would continually chime even when the vehicle is running.
Any suggestions? It is a 1991 Astro, 4.3L, 2wd.
#1941 of 1973 Re: white smoke on start [christmastree]
Aug 31, 2010 (6:29 pm)
I just purchased a 93 astro also and blew white smoke, it was not the fuel injectors, but it was the fuel injector pump regulator, which I ended up replacing the injectors and regulator all as a unit for good measure, no more white smoke, it was the unburnt gas evaporating in the exhaust, if you small gas odor your pump regualtor is spurting out too much gas, or also timing could be off and running way to lean
#1942 of 1973 Re: 91 GMC Safari,injectors will not open [wilson4321]
Sep 29, 2010 (5:26 pm)
This might sound stupid.....but my 92 chevy truck just stopped one day.....it was the ground for the motor, from the block to the firewall. Hope it helps, if not....good luck.
#1943 of 1973 roubust fuel system (fuel pump)
Dec 25, 2010 (8:35 pm)
Any one have any info on this pump. I have a 2004 astro; not an LS or LT, but that is what the pump is for, an LS or LT.
My question is will or could there be damage done if I continue to use it in my standard astro?
#1944 of 1973 Re: roubust fuel system (fuel pump) [biffoon]
Dec 27, 2010 (1:59 pm)
The fuel pump will be the same for all trim levels. They all used the same driveline and fuel system. The base, LS, LT designations were used for trim levels denoting whether or not the vehicle had power windows, locks, leather, rear entertainment, etc. etc...
The running gear all stayed the same. The only difference would be between AWD and 2WD. But even then, the fuel requirements for the 4.3 motor probably stayed the same and so the same pump was probably used.
#1945 of 1973 Left door handle replacement
Jan 22, 2011 (4:02 pm)
How do you get the door latch out of the way to remove the upper bolt. The lower one is easily gained through the hole covered by the rubber plug. 1999 Astro LS.
#1946 of 1973 Re: Left door handle replacement [markstro]
Jan 22, 2011 (6:42 pm)
Get a Dremal, cut off blade, cut a bigger hole to get to all through the side.(rear in)..door back panel..been there, done that..and still a PITA
#1947 of 1973 Re: Left door handle replacement [cbharobby]
Jan 23, 2011 (7:54 am)
So, drill or cut a new hole behind the door latch to gain access to the nut on the door handle
#1948 of 1973 remove door latch on a 99 astro
Jan 23, 2011 (8:09 am)
How do you get the door latch out of the hole it is bolted in. disconnect the rods to the controls does not allow it to be moved out of the hole
#1949 of 1973 Re: remove door latch on a 99 astro [markstro]
Jan 23, 2011 (12:08 pm)
Remove the door panel first, see what you can get to. I had to replace a broke handle, not the latch, but to get to that, pop the bottom plug. Then I took a 3/4 hole, sawed a slot, just outside the middle inside latch bolt, slotted it out 3 inches up to get to the hand latch bolts. PITA. Mines a 91, so might be different, but doubt it