Last post on Oct 27, 2013 at 1:07 PM
You are in the GMC Safari & Chevy Astro
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GMC Safari, Chevrolet Astro, Van
#1869 of 1973 Re: 2000 GMC Safari has spark dead end at the distributer cap but [bob4374]
Apr 15, 2009 (1:07 pm)
I would check for a bent exhaust pipe, my wife caught my tail pipe backing out of my driveway in all that snow and tore it off. If it had bent it,it would not have run right or at all. If you have fire intermittently at the distributor it also could be a bad wire on the coil that's not getting a good connection. I just replaced one on my motor home last year from sitting, the wire connectors had a coating of corrosion which attracts moisture. But that code is usually associated with an exhaust especially converter problem, I would check for bent pipes first; a bent pipe would play havoc with the O2 sensor I would think and I've seen it before. Their's also a main wiring bulkhead that plugs into the fuse box through the firewall that sits behind the battery the main ignition wire pulls so much power it will melt in that bulkhead and loose connection in damp weather, I've had a lot of problems with that on my ASTRO, it should have been hard wired but about every vehicle made is the same way, the wiring bulkhead plugs into the firewall into the back of the fuse box.
GOOD LUCK DLM1
#1870 of 1973 Re: 2000 GMC Safari has spark dead end at the distributer cap but [bob4374]
May 07, 2009 (3:56 pm)
I had this same problem. I ended up changing the coil and the ignition module and it fixed the problem.
As soon as it was damp outside if wouldn't start. I hope this will fix yours.
#1871 of 1973 94 Safari, Idle problem
May 11, 2009 (4:18 am)
Hi.I`m the 94 GMC Safari owner.
For a last couple of month i`m experiencing a rough idle problem.When engine starts RPM goes very high and when i`m shifting from P car jumps forward like crazy.Since I`m from Europe it almost impossible to find a good mechanic for an american car here.I changed an Idle Air Control Valve since the old one was dead but it didn`t help much.Now when engine starts it runs smoother but when i shift to D - same story and when i shift back to P the RPM goes even higher than before.
Can anyone help me?Thank you.
#1872 of 1973 Re: 94 Safari, Idle problem [xander3]
May 11, 2009 (5:56 am)
My previous 2001 AWD Safari van did that. re: It too had consistant idle. My local mechanic investigated and discovered its throttle body was "gummed up" with too much dirt and crud. He cleaned this area with engine cleaner spray and it worked great afterwards. As a suggestion, remove your van's inner cabin engine cover (aka: "dog house") and do a good visual inspection of the engine's throttle control body area. If needed, do clean this engine area with lots of engine cleaner stuff as well.
Hope this helps...
#1873 of 1973 1995 Chev Astro No Start No Crank
May 16, 2009 (3:44 pm)
I've read through previous posts but none seem to exactly match my problem. It is:
1) Intermittent crank/no crank condition.
2) May crank 6 times successfully, then no crank condition.
3) After leaving the vehicle overnight it will crank 1 or more times, then no crank condition.
4) Battery, cables, connections ok (including at starter).
5) When no crank, I do have lights, hear fuel pump run to pressurize fuel lines, etc.
6) When no crank, the solenoid is silent (no click, click, click).
7) When does crank will immediately start engine
8) Replaced the ignition switch already.
9) Starter/solenoid assembly about 1-1/2 years old.
10) Is there a mechanical relay between the ignition switch and the solenoid? If so, where is it located?
11) I have purchased a new starter, but hesitate to install it if there is a bad relay. This Astro does not have a fuse block under the hood as later models did.
12) What have I missed???
#1874 of 1973 Re: GMC Safari/Astro p0300 missing at 55mph [dsiever]
May 17, 2009 (8:17 am)
I have found the problem with this van and the bucking issue that it was having. First, I would have to say, that there were actually two problems. I replaced the air mass meter (found a brand new one on ebay in January for $60). This did correct the issue that I was having with bucking at 55 mpg or faster, however, I was still having a problem with starting the van. Up until about 2 yrs ago it started on the first crank everytime (I've owned this van for over 120k miles and 5 yrs)--however since then it has always been that I had to give it one crank, turn the key back then hit it again and it would always start. Last week, however, the van began to miss very badly on one particular morning and it then stalled and would not restart. It turns out that there was no gas flowing--the fuel filter was good--problem was that the fule pump was shot. I replaced that and it starts like it did when I first bought it--on the first crank, everytime.
#1875 of 1973 O2 sensor Bank 2 senor 1 removal 1997 Safari
May 28, 2009 (10:07 am)
I'm pulling code P0152 high voltage on Bank 2 sensor 1. Any ideas on what would cause that? Also how in the world would you get a 7/8 wrench in there to remove it? All books call for three sensors, 2 upstream and one downstream of the convertor but the drawing I'm looking at clearly identifies three upstream and is verified on my van? ^*$&# Any experience? Thanks
#1876 of 1973 Re: O2 sensor Bank 2 senor 1 removal 1997 Safari [navyblue]
May 28, 2009 (11:08 am)
I just went thru the same thing.All 3 were the same # Go to a Bosch web site fornd on Goggle and get the #.Call Advance or Auto and they will match the low price with a print out.Takes a special socket with an opening on 1 side.Got mine at Harbor Freight fo $4.99.
#1877 of 1973 Re: O2 sensor Bank 2 senor 1 removal 1997 Safari [navyblue]
May 28, 2009 (7:09 pm)
If your 97 Safari is like my 97 Astro you might want to take a look at the guide that I very recently posted on this forum with a link to some photos I took during the disassembly/reassembly process.
My 97 Astro has two "upstream" O2 sensors, and two "downstream" sensors. The first of the two downstream sensors is the one just before the catalytic converter. Each set of sensors has a different type of connector on it. I didn't bother trying to get to the sensors with the exhaust in place because I was replacing the cat as well. As near as I can tell, your best bet is to drop the exhaust down by removing the three bolts on each side that connect the pipes to the exhaust manifolds. You don't need to completely remove the exhaust, but just drop it down in order to access the sensors. The thing to watch out for is that one or more of the studs could break off while loosening the nuts. This is not all that uncommon. If one does break, then your in for a headache trying to remove the broken stud. Have a back-up plan ready. Plan for the worst, hope for the best. Good luck.
#1878 of 1973 Re: O2 sensor Bank 2 senor 1 removal 1997 Safari [Steve_01]
May 28, 2009 (7:31 pm)
Excellent documentation. I unbolted the exhaust at the manifold, screw jacked the tranny to hold in place, removed the "cross brace" and dropped the exhaust to get decent access to the sensor. A couple of the bolts were a little tricky but all in all, not a bad job. A whole lot of work for a two minute replacement of the actual O2 sensor. Putting it on a lift was a great help. Thank you Navy MWR! Thanks for the help.