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GMC Safari & Chevy Astro
GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

1889 messages, Last post on Nov 13, 2009 at 9:04 AM
You are in the GMC Safari & Chevy Astro Forum. Your Host is Karens
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Replying to: lorn (Feb 23, 2009 9:31 pm) |
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Replying to: lorn (Feb 23, 2009 9:31 pm) If my memory is correct, before 1995 vans used a fiberglass leaf spring system. Above 1994 vans (including my previous 1995 RWD Safari van) had a steel leaf spring system. They are 3 steel leafs in the rear of the van. Some folks add +1 leaf to the rear of their van. This method raises the rear of their van 1.5". When the rear goes up, the front goes down. When front goes down, the van's "front end" will need an alignment - to save its front tires and steering parts. In addition to this adjustment, a steel upgrade solution (like +1 leaf or additional helper leaf springs) creates an upward rebound effect. With upper rebound, one gets higher risk of "road hop", Especially when vehicle is empty. Thus, rear end fish tailing. To reduce rear end hop, one then installs higher quality shocks (in the rear). With cost of +1 leaf, wheel alignment and better shocks, one would be better off to buy / install Timbrens or Air bags. Timbrens are 2/3 the cost of air bags. When upgrading rear suspensions, its best to go with Rubber Based solutions. Thus, no upward rebound is added to factory build. Some folks use air "shocks". These are shocks that allow presurized air inside them (which also create less suspension depth) but they also have risk of future air leaks. And, do put too much stress on the van's factory shock mounts. In my previous Dodge Diplomat, it has wide rear tires with air shocks. I hit double set of railway tracks, its upper shock mount broke and "down came everything". Talk about a mess. From that point on, I took many experienced towing folks warning to heart. re: Avoid air shocks because they put too much stress on factory shock mounts. Go with Timbrens or Air bags instead. And if wondering, Timbrens are same price of air shocks. Especially since even a grade 8 kid can install Timbrens themselves. For my future van (replacing my current 2001 Safari), I'll be ordering Timbren SES units for it as well. Install them. leave them and they create no additional stress on factory shock mounts. And best of all, no increase in upper rebound (aka: Road Hop) effect. Hope this helps as well... .
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Replying to: wyatt18 (Jul 31, 2006 8:12 pm) |
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Replying to: awdastrojunk (Mar 03, 2008 11:39 am) -load test battery (also wiggle posts while testing to check for damage internally) -carefully check cable ends (both ends, pos and neg) taking them apart if nessesary looking for corrosion or damage (also wiggle these to see if they might be almost broken) -be sure that these cables are tightly fastened into place. -the starter will have to be checked out; probably best to remove it first (quite easy with so much room under there, and the starter being so small. 2 small wires, and 1 large cable) Take it to an auto parts store where they can check it for you. All GM starters have two parts; the solenoid which 1)acts as a switch for the big current 2)energizes the bendix with the starting gear, and the starter itself which is just a strong little motor. -check for corrosion between starter and engine block (causes a poor grnd or neg) In my case, the problem was with my positive batt cable, which I replaced. Believe it or not, it was corroded INSIDE and UNDER the insulation. The cable looked fine from the outside, but!! I changed it as a process of elimination because I'm not sure how to check it properly for it's high current carrying ability. Most of the time it's the positive cables that have corrosion. Here's hoping that you find your problem. Good luck!! |
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Replying to: spike99 (Feb 24, 2009 12:32 pm) DLM1
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Replying to: dlm1954 (Mar 03, 2009 5:22 am) Early 95 model and older of Astro/Safari vans had single fiberglass leaf system. Mid 1995 and newer years (like my 2001 van), their factory build was 3 leaf steel spring system. For early 1995 and older leaf spring conversion kits, surf: http://www.stengelbros.com/SteelReplacementSprings.htm For 1999 AWD, one can install +1 leaf (mid length leaf) in the rear. This firms up the rear's suspension but it also lifts the van's rear 1.5". Because the rear goes up, the front slightly goes down. To raise the front by .5" (for better looking & balanced stance), one can adjust the front torsion bars. And to reduce factory mush "depth" in the front, one can also install Timbrens in the front. Wish I had spare dollars to install Timbrens in the front of my 2001 AWD's front. Perhaps one day... For 1999 RWD, one can install +1 leaf (mide length leaf) in the rear. This firms up the rear's suspension but is also lifts the van's rear 1.5" Because the rear goes up, the front goes down. To reduce factory mush "depth" in the front, one can install Timbren SES units in the front. Or, install HD coil springs in the front - for better looking & balanced stance. For more details about Timbren units, surf middle page of: http://www.timbren.com/timbren-application-guides/chev-gmc.htm Some folks pick Air Bag upgrades, some folks pick Timbren upgrades, some folks pick +1 leaf upgrades and some folks pick a combination of each solution. Each product has its own pros/cons/cost and "ease of use". Hope this helps as well... . |
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I have an '04 Astro with a 101K miles 2WD. When I pull to a stop at an intersection or stoplight, sometimes the tranny seems to stick in 3rd and when I start going again I can feel it downshift into 1st. It seems odd that it would do that. It has happened a couple of times before, although not frequently. What could be causing this? Fluid level is normal. No other indicators that I can think of. It shifts fairly normally, although a little rough sometimes, but I think that is typical of this transmission (4L60E).
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Replying to: the_big_al (Mar 27, 2009 1:29 pm) Throw some tranny slip-fix in there and see what happens. I personally use Lucas transmission fix to top it off regularly. |
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| I got a 99 GMC Safari. Since about one week the rear upper door want open. It seems like some kind of electrical problem ´cause there is no sound after pressing the door button. There is some kind of lock mechanism inside which normally have to move both strings inside to unlock the door. the mechanism is working fine, I connect 9V battery and the mechanism moved. Is just problem with the button. I also sprayed WD40 an conntact cleaner inside. Nothing works. I checked already all fuses and relays-all fine. Maybe someone had the same issue. PLZ help. | |
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