Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Vans & Minivans GMC Safari & Chevy Astro GMC Safari/Chevy Astro
1889 messages, Last post on Nov 13, 2009 at 9:04 AM
You are in the GMC Safari & Chevy Astro Forum. Your Host is Karens
|
|
|---|---|
I need to know if there is a different fuse for a GMC Safari van. I have no need for the cigarette lighter however I have checked and the fuse appears to be good. I DO need the power ports and need to know what the title of the fuse location is in the underdash panel.. ANY help is great.
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: marcustuttle2 (Feb 20, 2009 6:25 pm)
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: blackpacific1 (Feb 20, 2009 6:57 pm) If the fuse is good, I would venture to guess that in the past someone has pulled the dog house and the plug got pulled on them. I would start there and pull the cover (it isn't hard) and see if there is either a loose wire or a completely unplugged wire. If they are plugged in, I wouldn't know where to go from there except to check and see if the cig lighter is working and not the power ports or if both are out. If the cig works, but not the power ports, than they are on different lines. If both are out then there is a a fuse out somewhere (under the dash or under the hood). If you can't trace that down, you can always re-wire them to a different constant "hot" line or run a new fused constant hot line to them. |
|
|
|
|
Replying to: blackpacific1 (Feb 20, 2009 6:57 pm) |
|
| I have an 18' trailer I sometimes pull with various amounts of weight, and sometimes it bottoms out my baby.I want to raise it at least 4 inches, and beef it up front and rear. Any suggestions on where I can get mods to do this? | |
|
Replying to: lorn (Feb 23, 2009 9:31 pm) To remove factory "suspension" depth from your van, some folks install Air Bags and some folks install Timbrens. Air bags are pressurized air and by adjusting its inner lbs, one can adjust its ride comfort. Timbrens are like rubberized air bags without pressurized air inside them. Thus, no worry about possible air leak. If wondering, I have Timbren SES 2,000 lbs units on the rear of my 2001 Safari van. Installed them myself (within simple wrench) and its been good for life. Very pleased with this rear suspension improvement product. For more details on each, surf: http://www.timbren.com/ses-van-suv.htm http://www.fsip.com/riderite/products/rrinfo.shtml If wondering, Timbren or RideRite Air bag system will reduce "factory mush" depth for van's rear cargo and when connecting trailer's that cannot accept a WD system. Note: Timbrens or Air bags don't "lift" the rear of your van. When properly adjusted, their reduce (eliminate) rear sag. Especially when used with a WD system (with properly sized bars). When towing large / heavy trailers, one should always use a WD system (with properly sized bars) as well. Many say that WD bars should be 13%-15% of the trailer's "average loaded" weight. For example, a 4,000 lbs trailer should use a WD system with approx 560 lbs bars. For example: bars for 500-800 lbs range. If wondering, a WD system (like REESE WD Hitch  http://assets.iqestores.com/product_img/highres/66006.jpg ) transfers the trailer's tonque weight across the entire Tow Vehicle (your van). Thus, better vehicle balance, better steering and reduction of rear sag. And less stress on your van's Hitch system as well. If wondering, both Timbrens (or Air Bags) and a WD system can be used together. When I towed my 19ft TT (4,200 lbs trailer), I used both Timbrens and WD system as well. Worked great - for my towing needs. For my needs, I'd buy the less expensive Timbren SES 2,000 lbs upgrade again. Hope this helps in your towing needs as well... . |
|
|
Replying to: lorn (Feb 23, 2009 9:31 pm) |
|
|
Replying to: lorn (Feb 23, 2009 9:31 pm) If my memory is correct, before 1995 vans used a fiberglass leaf spring system. Above 1994 vans (including my previous 1995 RWD Safari van) had a steel leaf spring system. They are 3 steel leafs in the rear of the van. Some folks add +1 leaf to the rear of their van. This method raises the rear of their van 1.5". When the rear goes up, the front goes down. When front goes down, the van's "front end" will need an alignment - to save its front tires and steering parts. In addition to this adjustment, a steel upgrade solution (like +1 leaf or additional helper leaf springs) creates an upward rebound effect. With upper rebound, one gets higher risk of "road hop", Especially when vehicle is empty. Thus, rear end fish tailing. To reduce rear end hop, one then installs higher quality shocks (in the rear). With cost of +1 leaf, wheel alignment and better shocks, one would be better off to buy / install Timbrens or Air bags. Timbrens are 2/3 the cost of air bags. When upgrading rear suspensions, its best to go with Rubber Based solutions. Thus, no upward rebound is added to factory build. Some folks use air "shocks". These are shocks that allow presurized air inside them (which also create less suspension depth) but they also have risk of future air leaks. And, do put too much stress on the van's factory shock mounts. In my previous Dodge Diplomat, it has wide rear tires with air shocks. I hit double set of railway tracks, its upper shock mount broke and "down came everything". Talk about a mess. From that point on, I took many experienced towing folks warning to heart. re: Avoid air shocks because they put too much stress on factory shock mounts. Go with Timbrens or Air bags instead. And if wondering, Timbrens are same price of air shocks. Especially since even a grade 8 kid can install Timbrens themselves. For my future van (replacing my current 2001 Safari), I'll be ordering Timbren SES units for it as well. Install them. leave them and they create no additional stress on factory shock mounts. And best of all, no increase in upper rebound (aka: Road Hop) effect. Hope this helps as well... .
|
|
|
Replying to: wyatt18 (Jul 31, 2006 8:12 pm) |
|
|
Replying to: awdastrojunk (Mar 03, 2008 11:39 am) -load test battery (also wiggle posts while testing to check for damage internally) -carefully check cable ends (both ends, pos and neg) taking them apart if nessesary looking for corrosion or damage (also wiggle these to see if they might be almost broken) -be sure that these cables are tightly fastened into place. -the starter will have to be checked out; probably best to remove it first (quite easy with so much room under there, and the starter being so small. 2 small wires, and 1 large cable) Take it to an auto parts store where they can check it for you. All GM starters have two parts; the solenoid which 1)acts as a switch for the big current 2)energizes the bendix with the starting gear, and the starter itself which is just a strong little motor. -check for corrosion between starter and engine block (causes a poor grnd or neg) In my case, the problem was with my positive batt cable, which I replaced. Believe it or not, it was corroded INSIDE and UNDER the insulation. The cable looked fine from the outside, but!! I changed it as a process of elimination because I'm not sure how to check it properly for it's high current carrying ability. Most of the time it's the positive cables that have corrosion. Here's hoping that you find your problem. Good luck!! |
|
You are here:
Forums
Vans & Minivans GMC Safari & Chevy Astro GMC Safari/Chevy Astro
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2005 GMC Safari
2005 Chevrolet Astro
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
