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Vans & Minivans GMC Safari & Chevy Astro GMC Safari/Chevy Astro
1889 messages, Last post on Nov 13, 2009 at 9:04 AM
You are in the GMC Safari & Chevy Astro Forum. Your Host is Karens
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Replying to: spike99 (May 31, 2008 5:40 pm)
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Replying to: joelmich (Sep 09, 2008 3:56 pm) Piston slap is when an undersized piston is installed. Over time or in cold weather, the piston vibrates up/down the cylinder walls. Thus, "slapping" sounds. Especially under "First Start" conditions (when little oil lubrication) or when under colder engine climate conditions. Another form of ticking is stuck lifters, stuck valves and other stuck internal engine parts. Sometimes, Oil additives (like Mystery Oil) can loosen those parts. And over time, the stuck part Magically starts working properly again. For more details of MMO, surf entire post and bottom comments of: http://classiccars.about.com/b/2007/12/28/marvel-mystery-oil-for-your-classic-ca- - r.htm#gB3 As a suggestion, keep using MMO in your engine. If MMO makes the engine ticking sound go away, then it must be a good thing to use. Sounds like some small amounts of MMO can be used in the gas tank as well. As my doctor often says, "if it works - keeping doing it". Hope this helps as well... . |
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We recently took our Astro on a trip to Washington DC. It ran fine for most of the trip. But on the way home it did not seem to have as much power on the hills. We took historic National Highway 40, which is a straight road, with monster grades up and down the beautiful hill country of Pennsylvania. A few days after getting home it died in town, had to be towed home. I coaxed a code 44 out of the computer, but that is where things went astray. Code 44 means a lean fuel mixture. But all the suggested fixes were dead ends. The oxygen sensor was recently replaced. I could find no vacuum leaks on top of the engine. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor. I pulled the plugs and did a compression test, it tested good. I replaced the plugs and wireset. Then I did something rash, I cut the catalytic convertor off, thinking it was just some high back pressure that was causing the rough idle and stall behavior. I was glad to see that my cat was perfect, too bad they are not bolt on installations.  I checked the timing to see if the distributor or timing chain had jumped a gear tooth, timing was okay. I put it all back together, still had not fixed the problem. Then I did what any sane shade tree mechanic would do when faced with a code 44, I took the fuel filter off. I was careful not to spill the contents of it on the ground. I poured the fuel left in the filter on the back/dirty side of it into a clean container. It was amazing to see all the black specks and metal shavings that came out from the inside. I put a new filter on, and the problem was solved! I expect that the fuel pump might have been stressed by the bad gas, I would not be surprised if it went out soon. I will have a muffler shop put a new cat and muffler back up. But it is nice to known that our trusty Astro will be back on the road.
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Replying to: blackpacific1 (Oct 05, 2008 4:57 pm)
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| I have a 200o Chevy Astro and I have noticed the dutch doors appear to leak during a hard rain. This is espically noticeable on the passenger side. I have seen previous posts about this problem. What is the best method for resolving this problem? | |
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Replying to: dlm1954 (Oct 06, 2008 5:21 pm)
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Replying to: blackpacific1 (Oct 22, 2008 5:17 am)
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Replying to: dlm1954 (Oct 22, 2008 6:59 am) |
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| I think he might have got you there, the fuel pump pressure should have been checked first thing, and it actually sounds like an open EGR valve which will probally be next on his list;and that to should have been checked first because a little piece of carbon in that EGR valve causes those Astros to run like crap and their notorius for it. The fuel pumps usally just go out they don't usally lose pressure they either work or they don't. I've only seen that happen very,very seldom. And loke you said they usally just go out they don't lose pressure, I think you might being getting played for parts you don't need and they will keep it up as long as possible. I would ask to see the low pressure reading, if it's there at all which I kind of don't believe. DLM1954 | |
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Dec 01, 1999 4:29 pm) The wiper motor Ground strap is located under the mounting leg near the hood opening at the windshield. This strap is used as the ground through the bolt and the body. Vibration will cause erosion of the metal and the strap causing bad grounding. Thus intermittent operation. The cure is to thread the unused hole on the upper right of the wiper motor and install a Tap bolt and soldered wire clips to a good ground on the firewall. No more wiper troubles!!!!
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