- #1764 of 1889
-
Ticking/Knocking noise
by joelmich
-
May 31, 2008 (5:31 am)
-
|
Our 1999 GMC Safari that has 125,000 developed a ticking/knocking noise on the right side of the engine. I have had some people tell me that it sounds light a collapsed lifter. The runs fine except for this noise. I put in some mystery oil from and the noise is not as nocticable now but I can still hear it. Now when ever I changed the oil, if I do not put a QT of mystery oil in the crack case, the noise come back but after the mystery oil is substituted for 1 QT of engine oil, the noise dies down but you can still faintly hear it. Has anyone else had this problem and is it really a collapsed lifter?
Joel / n4urw earthlink.net
|
- #1765 of 1889
-
Re: rear door latch [dano48]
by cbharobby
-
May 31, 2008 (10:51 am)
-
|
|
Replying to: dano48 (May 31, 2008 4:26 am)
Same thing happened to me. Cheap pot metal latch. Anyway, just bust off any left on the handle until its all gone. Just the piece that moves, not the body. Look in there, and the latch is pointed at the 10-11 O'Clock position.. Doors unlocked, just screwdriver it over to the 1-2 o'clock and it will pop open. You have a 4 screw panel in the side of the door. Take that off so you can see what your doing. What I did it just drill a 1/4" hole in the latch, and ran a bolt through it sticking out the back, to lever the door open. Had to elongate the plate (drill/Dremel/whatever), to get a full swing on the bolt. Worked for years now. The lock is separate, so even like this, no one can break in. Hope this helps. Be gentle with the other latches too. Had to replace the drivers door, and a real pain. Go to a junk yard if ya want, and you will see more. Maybe pick up one now for a spare, as Astros last a long time.
|
- #1766 of 1889
-
Re: Ticking/Knocking noise [joelmich]
by cbharobby
-
May 31, 2008 (11:03 am)
-
|
|
Replying to: joelmich (May 31, 2008 5:31 am)
Try a full oil change/filter. Then instead of 5 qts oil, do 4, and get a qt of Risone in there. Comes in a yellow bottle. Run it for 1000, won't hurt anything, might bust up the sludge in the lifter, which is probably whats hanging up.
|
- #1767 of 1889
-
Re: Ticking/Knocking noise [joelmich]
by spike99
-
May 31, 2008 (5:40 pm)
-
|
|
Replying to: joelmich (May 31, 2008 5:31 am)
Perhaps your GM 4.3L engine has Piston Slap? Piston Slap is common on many GM engines. Especially the 4.3.
My 2001 Safari 4.3L has piston slap in really cold weather. Especially during its warm up phase. For more details, surf: http://www.pistonslap.com/photos.htm
For me, I get my local auto shop to install Synthetic "5-w30" during colder weather. In the summer hotter months, use normal Synthetic 10w-30 oil. This seems to help reduce engine noise...
Hope this helps...
.
|
- #1768 of 1889
-
Re: rear door latch [cbharobby]
by dano48
-
May 31, 2008 (6:26 pm)
-
|
|
Replying to: cbharobby (May 31, 2008 10:51 am)
Thanks for your help, but I don't now how to get to the latch, the doors won't open and some of the screws that hold on the inside panels don't appear to be accessible
with the doors closed. what can I do?
|
- #1769 of 1889
-
Re: rear door latch [dano48]
by cbharobby
-
Jun 01, 2008 (10:53 am)
-
|
|
Replying to: dano48 (May 31, 2008 6:26 pm)
I just TOLD you what to do. The latch is got to from the OUTSIDE!. Bust away the handle, its right there.
|
- #1770 of 1889
-
Re: Ticking/Knocking noise [joelmich]
by dlm1954
-
Jun 01, 2008 (3:33 pm)
-
|
|
Replying to: joelmich (May 31, 2008 5:31 am)
The best way to determine a noise is use a automotive stethoscope because a knocking noise you think may be coming from one place will actually resonate from any where,and a stethoscope is the best way to find out.The 350 chevy engine has a push rod driven fuel pump and it's hard to tell how many people that's been charged for lifter replacement that didn't help the problem because it sounds just like a lifter and it's just a worn fuel pump spring or worn push rod. DLM1
|
- #1771 of 1889
-
Re: Ticking/Knocking noise [dlm1954]
by cbharobby
-
Jun 01, 2008 (5:17 pm)
-
|
|
Replying to: dlm1954 (Jun 01, 2008 3:33 pm)
First, its a 4.3, V6, not a 350 V8. And had many, with never a pump rod go bad. Thing is, the fuel pump is in the tank, electric. And getting a "ear piece scope" in there is very difficult. If its a half speed always "tick", its a lifter. Piston slap will be engine speed, and a slap on the throttle, will increase it. Pretty simple. 50 years Chevy, 175000 my Astro...do what I said..Rislone...or just live with it until the cam gets "wiped", which is many years. Lose a little perfomance, but not worth any major engine work...
|
- #1772 of 1889
-
Ticky, Tocker, Stetholooker......Cheap!!
by awdastrojunk
-
Jun 01, 2008 (5:47 pm)
-
|
|
34 years in the automotive racket, I can tell you all that the BEST stethoscope which works and can been thrown at a wall, stepped on, drivin over and has multiple functions is..........: A very, very LONG Screwdriver!! Prefferably one with a synthetic plastic handle and not wood. The high impacts plastic gives a clearer and better resonance picture than wood. Again just my own opinion. I have a craftsman which is 24" and it gets almost anywhere I want. Those "Doctor" Ear type are good if you plan on giving a full physical and a " pap smear", then perhaps that may work well. But for us motor guys, I think most might agree with me that the screwdriver described is the best way to go and usually the cheapest.......!!!! You will be amazed at what you can hear and how clear it is!!
|
- #1773 of 1889
-
Re: Ticky, Tocker, Stetholooker......Cheap!! [awdastrojunk]
by cbharobby
-
Jun 01, 2008 (7:17 pm)
-
|
|
Replying to: awdastrojunk (Jun 01, 2008 5:47 pm)
Yep, 35 years Tool and Die..Maintnence Machinist....50 years wrench twirling...hard to explain to the new just how stuff works...like simple crank , or cam speed, on a tick..sometimes ya wanna scream...
|