- #1731 of 1889
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Re: 1997 GMC Safari MAP problem [dlm1954]
by samyerardi
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Mar 28, 2008 (10:58 am)
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Replying to: dlm1954 (Mar 28, 2008 9:28 am)
dlm,
Thanks. That actually makes me feel a little bit better. It's been so long I can't remember what it was doing when we quit using it. Good point on the deterioration of the wires, etc. If the MAP sensor were completely dead (no output), how would you expect it to act?
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- #1732 of 1889
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Re: 1997 GMC Safari MAP problem [samyerardi]
by dlm1954
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Mar 28, 2008 (2:42 pm)
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Replying to: samyerardi (Mar 28, 2008 10:58 am)
It would stall and idle rough but most map senser codes are created from a differant problem,bad connection, vaccuum leak and so forth and it sounds to me like you have some carbon sticking your egr valve open which these vanss are notoriuos for from the bad design.My pickup which is a ford had a bad map sensor and ran fine until it hit second gear and it just flattened out no power.These Astros have serious problems with the multi port injection design which makes them run like a 350 but you really have to stay on top of them. I put new injectors,regulator, nut kit, and screen egr valve gasket in mine a few months ago and it runs better than it did when I bought it new. If you do it yourself you can save 2 to 3 grand and do it right and clean out egr ports and plenum to remove all the carbon that falls directly in the egr valve on these.I went from 13 to 14 mpg to 19 to 20 which was well worth the effort just for that.,and it has never idled or ran better.So if you plan on doing the job yourself make sure you clean plenum and egr port good more than likely that port is probally mostly if not all the way clogged up.,and use the screened gasket when putting it back together. GOOD LUCK DLM1954
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- #1733 of 1889
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Re: 1997 GMC Safari MAP problem [dlm1954]
by samyerardi
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Apr 01, 2008 (3:29 am)
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Replying to: dlm1954 (Mar 28, 2008 2:42 pm)
Thanks dlm. I am going to do all the work myself (I've got two other vehicles lined up behind it waiting or me to work on them as well). Any ideas what other sorts of trouble I'll run into with it having sat so long without running?
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- #1734 of 1889
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Re: 1997 GMC Safari MAP problem [dlm1954]
by the_big_al
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Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
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Replying to: dlm1954 (Mar 28, 2008 2:42 pm)
just read your post and it brought a couple of questions to my mind... I currently own an '04 Astro with almost 90K on it and an '01 S-10 with over 110K on it. The Astro gets about 15 MPG average (this is with ladder racks over the top) and the S-10 gets about 16-17 now. It used to get almost [the s-10] 19 in town and I could push it to 24 on the highway. Both idle exactly the same which is a little rough, not really chugging, but a little rougher than I am used to. The S-10 didn't used to idle so rough. They both have the 4.3 drivetrain, which I understand, aside from a little different programing to give the Astro version a little more power, is identical.
Would this type of problem be fixed by the procedure you just descibed?? I haven't been throwing codes, nor do I seem at a lack of power, but these two vehicles provide my livelihood and I want to make sure they run well into the 100K.... I would like to make sure they make it to 200K.
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- #1735 of 1889
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Re: 1997 GMC Safari MAP problem [samyerardi]
by dlm1954
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Apr 01, 2008 (12:57 pm)
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Replying to: samyerardi (Apr 01, 2008 3:29 am)
If you are doing it yourself which is a very good idea, because you'll know what's been replaced and what's not you should be ok. If you plan on doing the basic tune up along with it you shouldn't have any problems, I'm disabled and I let mine sit over a year until I felt like doing it myself, but I would make sure I cleaned the plenum and egr port real good because more than likely the egr port is probably completely stopped up. The nut kit or regulator is probably the fuel leak smell, my regulator and nut kit both were leaking that's usually the culprit. The nut kit is a dealer part but the injectors can be gotten a lot cheaper at auto zone or advance auto. I would make sure and put a screened gasket back on the egr valve port this will save a lot of idle problems in the future,I used to use stainless screen before they started making those to bad I didn't trademark it. With a oil change and a few hours running time to dry out every thing where its been sitting and it'll run better than when you bought it.
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- #1736 of 1889
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Distributor Timing
by keeshond2
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Apr 02, 2008 (12:55 am)
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I have a 2000 Safari that I just had the engine and transmission rebuilt. The van sat for around a year before I got the up the energy and money to tackle this job. I have very little automotive experience but know a little. This may seem like a stupid question, but here it goes any ways.
I have put the new motor and transmission, which almost took an act of congress to accomplish, and now I am doing the last simple adjustments to it. I have brought the number one piston TDC, but what about the distributor? Were should the rotor be at when I put the distributor in. Should the metal piece on the rotor be facing the number one spot on the distributor cap?
The last time I tried the number one piston was TDC and when I put the distributor in the gears which meet with the cam gear made the rotor, the metal piece, face cylinder three on the distibutor cap. What am I doing wrong? I know there is a simple solution because I have always seen my Dad do this job very simply.
Hoping someone has a suggestion.
Thanks
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- #1737 of 1889
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Re: Distributor Timing [keeshond2]
by dlm1954
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Apr 02, 2008 (10:47 am)
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Replying to: keeshond2 (Apr 02, 2008 12:55 am)
If you removed the distributor during rebuild, bring up number one on compression stroke, it will blow you thumb off if you hold over cylinder on a compression stroke then drop distributor in on number one cylinder that way you won't get it 180 out. As far as fine tuning I believe you'll have to have it done on a computer since it's probaly got a probe tube instead of timing plate.I personally like a compound gauge better goverment controlled timing is best for fuel economy supposedly not best for running. If you get it on number one you should be able to mess with it a couple degrees at a time for good running and starting by itself. DLM1954
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- #1738 of 1889
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GMC Safari wont start after intake job, cleaned poppets.
by rene007
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Apr 02, 2008 (11:43 am)
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I found a coolant leak on my 2001 Safari and I decided to chek it out. Found out it was the intake gaskets. I went ahead and took it apart to replace them and clean everything out. I used throttle body and intake cleaner on the injectors or poppets. When I put it back together, it would not start, only crank. Checked fuel pressure, had 56 psi and spark. Both present. I marked the distributor before taking it off and put it back together the same way. I also replaced the cap and rotor. I don't know what to do after this. I would appreciate some help on this issue.
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- #1739 of 1889
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Re: GMC Safari wont start after intake job, cleaned poppets. [rene007]
by dlm1954
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Apr 02, 2008 (12:30 pm)
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Replying to: rene007 (Apr 02, 2008 11:43 am)
Did you take the injectors out one at a time to make sure you put them back in the right cylinders, and if memory serves me right those injector poppets are made of plastic and and that cleaner is probaly acetone and it melts plastic. I would pull a couple plugs and make sure it's getting fuel in the cylinders,see if plugs are wet from flooding because of maybe firing problem. Unless you damaged the injectors or maybe mixed them up there's no reason that it wouldn't start from replacing gasket. I would check to make sure everything was plugged back in by regoing through what I unpluged to take it apart you might have missed a plug that keeps it from starting.I know there is a few electrical connectors that have to be disconnected to remove that plenum. GOOD LUK DLM1954
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- #1740 of 1889
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Increase Gas Mileage?
by flintlockdave
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Apr 02, 2008 (5:24 pm)
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4.3 V6, 2003 Astro, any suggestion on how to increase the mpg?
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