Last post on Oct 27, 2013 at 1:07 PM
You are in the GMC Safari & Chevy Astro
What is this discussion about?
GMC Safari, Chevrolet Astro, Van
Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
Not sure how to phrase this question, but I'll do my best.
I am looking to see how or if there is a way to program how my vehicle locks/unlocks the doors when it is placed in drive or park, how the lights flash when I hit the lock button on my fob remote and also how the horn sounds when the lock or unlock button is hit.
My vehicle is a 2004 Chevy Astro Cargo Van with a keyless entry system. I have figured out how to program new remotes, but I also wonder if there is a way to manage the other settings. I know that on my Impala I just use the radio to set all these settings, but my Astro has the old style (90's style) AM FM head unit. I'm almost postive there is a way to personalize these settings, but I'm not sure how to do it beyond programng the key fobs to work with the vehicle. Anyone out there know how to do this?
#1728 of 1973 Re: dutch door will not open [garyvol]
Mar 26, 2008 (10:41 am)
I have a 2000 Astro and i have a similar problem. The top glass door only unlatches on one side. I was going to take it apart and see if a cable broke or something but i read your post and decided to look for this box. I found a little white relay type aparatus that plugged into the wire harness. I don't know if it comes apart or not. It looks like it is all molded in one piece. It looks fine...no black marks from arcing or anything. I am frustrated and may end up taking it to a dealer.
I am waiting on prices for a new part. The part # is VPRD-35F14-Z01 and it is made by Siemens. Any ideas or thoughts? I may take a stab at disassembling the door panel but it will be hard while shut like that. Thanks
#1729 of 1973 1997 GMC Safari MAP problem
Mar 28, 2008 (7:00 am)
I will be rebuilding my wife's '97 GMC Safari engine & van this spring/summer. It has sat for 5 years without running so there is a lot of things that need fixed/rebuilt, etc. The last time I looked at it with an OBD scanner it said the MAP sensor was bad. I can jump start it, but as soon as I try to move in drive it starts missing and choking and dies. I was going to try to replace it and went so far as to tear into the engine housing under the dash last year but other things came up financially and I didn't want to take a chance on a $150 replacement sensor and that not be the fix. I want to restore it now and have the funds. Can anyone suggest my next step? I have the Haynes manual for it, and I am considering getting a factory manual if necessary.
Thanks in advance!
#1730 of 1973 Re: 1997 GMC Safari MAP problem [samyerardi]
Mar 28, 2008 (9:28 am)
sounds more like cap and rotor problems for the stalling, map sensor could be bad but i don't think it would cause it to stall that bad.sitting for that long didn't do cap rotor and wires much good and usally big culprit in stalling. also these vans are notorious for injectors and regulator problems i have one i just redone and have seen the same problem with most of them. but if i were goig to rebuild it anyway stalling is the least of the problem. dlm1954
#1731 of 1973 Re: 1997 GMC Safari MAP problem [dlm1954]
Mar 28, 2008 (10:58 am)
Thanks. That actually makes me feel a little bit better. It's been so long I can't remember what it was doing when we quit using it. Good point on the deterioration of the wires, etc. If the MAP sensor were completely dead (no output), how would you expect it to act?
#1732 of 1973 Re: 1997 GMC Safari MAP problem [samyerardi]
Mar 28, 2008 (2:42 pm)
It would stall and idle rough but most map senser codes are created from a differant problem,bad connection, vaccuum leak and so forth and it sounds to me like you have some carbon sticking your egr valve open which these vanss are notoriuos for from the bad design.My pickup which is a ford had a bad map sensor and ran fine until it hit second gear and it just flattened out no power.These Astros have serious problems with the multi port injection design which makes them run like a 350 but you really have to stay on top of them. I put new injectors,regulator, nut kit, and screen egr valve gasket in mine a few months ago and it runs better than it did when I bought it new. If you do it yourself you can save 2 to 3 grand and do it right and clean out egr ports and plenum to remove all the carbon that falls directly in the egr valve on these.I went from 13 to 14 mpg to 19 to 20 which was well worth the effort just for that.,and it has never idled or ran better.So if you plan on doing the job yourself make sure you clean plenum and egr port good more than likely that port is probally mostly if not all the way clogged up.,and use the screened gasket when putting it back together. GOOD LUCK DLM1954
#1733 of 1973 Re: 1997 GMC Safari MAP problem [dlm1954]
Apr 01, 2008 (3:29 am)
Thanks dlm. I am going to do all the work myself (I've got two other vehicles lined up behind it waiting or me to work on them as well). Any ideas what other sorts of trouble I'll run into with it having sat so long without running?
#1734 of 1973 Re: 1997 GMC Safari MAP problem [dlm1954]
Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
just read your post and it brought a couple of questions to my mind... I currently own an '04 Astro with almost 90K on it and an '01 S-10 with over 110K on it. The Astro gets about 15 MPG average (this is with ladder racks over the top) and the S-10 gets about 16-17 now. It used to get almost [the s-10] 19 in town and I could push it to 24 on the highway. Both idle exactly the same which is a little rough, not really chugging, but a little rougher than I am used to. The S-10 didn't used to idle so rough. They both have the 4.3 drivetrain, which I understand, aside from a little different programing to give the Astro version a little more power, is identical.
Would this type of problem be fixed by the procedure you just descibed?? I haven't been throwing codes, nor do I seem at a lack of power, but these two vehicles provide my livelihood and I want to make sure they run well into the 100K.... I would like to make sure they make it to 200K.
#1735 of 1973 Re: 1997 GMC Safari MAP problem [samyerardi]
Apr 01, 2008 (12:57 pm)
If you are doing it yourself which is a very good idea, because you'll know what's been replaced and what's not you should be ok. If you plan on doing the basic tune up along with it you shouldn't have any problems, I'm disabled and I let mine sit over a year until I felt like doing it myself, but I would make sure I cleaned the plenum and egr port real good because more than likely the egr port is probably completely stopped up. The nut kit or regulator is probably the fuel leak smell, my regulator and nut kit both were leaking that's usually the culprit. The nut kit is a dealer part but the injectors can be gotten a lot cheaper at auto zone or advance auto. I would make sure and put a screened gasket back on the egr valve port this will save a lot of idle problems in the future,I used to use stainless screen before they started making those to bad I didn't trademark it. With a oil change and a few hours running time to dry out every thing where its been sitting and it'll run better than when you bought it.
#1736 of 1973 Distributor Timing
Apr 02, 2008 (12:55 am)
I have a 2000 Safari that I just had the engine and transmission rebuilt. The van sat for around a year before I got the up the energy and money to tackle this job. I have very little automotive experience but know a little. This may seem like a stupid question, but here it goes any ways.
I have put the new motor and transmission, which almost took an act of congress to accomplish, and now I am doing the last simple adjustments to it. I have brought the number one piston TDC, but what about the distributor? Were should the rotor be at when I put the distributor in. Should the metal piece on the rotor be facing the number one spot on the distributor cap?
The last time I tried the number one piston was TDC and when I put the distributor in the gears which meet with the cam gear made the rotor, the metal piece, face cylinder three on the distibutor cap. What am I doing wrong? I know there is a simple solution because I have always seen my Dad do this job very simply.
Hoping someone has a suggestion.