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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

1892 messages,  Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 7:20 AM

You are in the GMC Safari & Chevy Astro Forum. Your Host is Karens

What is this discussion about? GMC Safari, Chevrolet Astro, Van




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#1707 of 1892
chevy astro by campdrafty
Feb 06, 2008 (5:59 am)
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I own a 2001 astro. want to get a 2006 or 2007 van. Can't seem to find one as good as the astro. Very disappointed in the vans out there now, looked at the Uplander, but was disappointed. any suggestions. My astro is in very good condition with 94000 miles. Probably should keep it, was offered $4000 for it.
#1708 of 1892
Re: chevy astro [campdrafty] by spike99
Feb 06, 2008 (7:10 am)
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Replying to: campdrafty (Feb 06, 2008 5:59 am)

Within the Astro/Safari section, I asked the same question. re: What vehicle can replace my existing Safari van? TheBigAl reponded with a few suggested vehicles. For details, surf BigAls reply (at bottom page) within: dlm1954, "GMC Safari/Chevy Astro" #1683, 26 Dec 2007 2:46 pm
 
Used Astro/Safari vans in my area are selling between $3K - $6K (depending on shape and miles) as well. Expect low value if trading your van in.
 
If you are happy with your Astro/Safari and it isn't costing you too much on repairs or weekly gas (dollar value) consumption, then perhaps keeping it is a wise choice. (for your needs). In the end, my wife & I decided to keep our current Safari van. Mainly because it sits in my driveway 6 days / week. We only use our van for weekend "2 hour drive long haul and odd utility trailer pulling". For us, replacing with new or slightly used vehicle is a waste of dollars.
 
Definately worth surfing the Safari forum and reading TheBiglAls reply - to my same question.
 
Hope this helps....
 
.
#1709 of 1892
Re: chevy astro [spike99] by the_big_al
Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
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Replying to: spike99 (Feb 06, 2008 7:10 am)

Seconding spikes comment - keep the Astro. But if you do want to replace it, then there is nothing out there that will compare to the Astro, but the closest thing to it would be GM Lamda SUV Crossovers...
 
The GMC Acadia, Saturn Outlook, Buick Enclave. But with all of them costing near 30K and up, unless you really need one or want to spend that much, I say your Astro will have as much more utility and will ultimately cost you less (even with less MPG) than one of these will. With only 94K on your van, it should go easily to 200K with no major issues. If you are thinking to get something more fuel efficient, remember that the new vehicle will cost upwards of 30K. You probably won't recoupe that in gas savings. Even in repairs to keep the Astro on the road won't cost as much as the new vehicle.
 
But if you do want to replace the Astro, the only thing I think that comes close to the both the utility, people hauling, towing, fuel economy, cargo space is the Lamda platform. I think the Acadia is the best, the Buick the cushiest and the Saturn is in between the two. The Acadia can haul more than a Tahoe (although not tow as much), get better fuel economy, and carry the same amount of people in better comfort. The dis-advantage to the Lamda is that it's tow rating isn't as much as the larger Tahoe or even the Astro. But it does have a respectable tow rating and if you don't tow frequently then the tow rating will be sufficient to meet your needs.
#1710 of 1892
heater air flow problems by gooddog1
Feb 29, 2008 (2:22 pm)
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I have a1998 astro van.
The fan works fine at all speeds and temperatures.... however, I can only get airflow to the defrost on top of dash.... no flow to feet vents or dash vents, no matter what setting the know is at ????
thanks in advance
#1711 of 1892
Re: heater air flow problems [gooddog1] by the_big_al
Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
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Replying to: gooddog1 (Feb 29, 2008 2:22 pm)

Sounds like it is either a stuck baffle or a disconnected vacumn. As far as fixing it, not sure. I'll do some research and see if it is self-serviceable.
#1712 of 1892
Re: heater air flow problems [gooddog1] by n5445
Feb 29, 2008 (3:50 pm)
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Replying to: gooddog1 (Feb 29, 2008 2:22 pm)

If Im not mistaken its the vacuum line that runs through the engine compartment.
I know ive seen this problem on here before, so just do a search and the answer is in here somewhere.
#1713 of 1892
Re: heater air flow problems [gooddog1] by bizzbang
Feb 29, 2008 (5:02 pm)
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Replying to: gooddog1 (Feb 29, 2008 2:22 pm)

I’ve had the problem and so did my brother. The heating system is designed to fail in the defrost mode. The problem is vacuum line runs through the engine compartment and over time it cooks and the rubber gets brittle and brakes. The line runs form the vacuum intake on the left rear of the engine to front right were it connects to a set of hoses and a vacuum storage sphere. It is about the size of a softball underneath the windshield washer reservoir. You will have to replace the vacuum line front to back. The part cost about $20.00 but the shop wants 2.0 hours to replace it about $150.00 in total. Get the vacuum line, (dealer only) Remove the engine cover form the inside, find a similar connector on the vacuum (driver side of the engine) intake and trace the hose to the front, you will find it near the top passenger side area with a few hoses linked together. Make sure when you run the new hose that it does not rest on the intake manifold so it does not cook again.
 
Good luck
#1714 of 1892
Junk it or fix it by pistandbroke
Mar 01, 2008 (4:14 pm)
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I have a 1998 GMC Safari that lost oil pressure on the burlington skyway bridge in ontario (probably the worst place in Ontario to break down!) I knew it was bad news, but getting rear ended is worse. I tried to make it to the top so I could coast down to safety, all the while watching the temperature gauge which stayed around 60C. Before I reached the peak I could hear the engine getting louder,and then there was a loud popping sound followed by a burning smell. I got towed home and filled the oil back up the next day. It started up but had a definate knocking/grinding type sound, but remained running. The oil spewed out all over the ground from the back part of the engine on the driver's side of course. The van's worth about $2000 but more to me as I've replaced a bunch of things over the years. Is this fixable? Did I blow a rod? Is it worth getting towed to a garage and spending a few hundred bucks to find out what's wrong? Or will they just tell me it's toast. It's still in pretty good shape overall. It sound expensive. Any advice would be appreciated.
#1715 of 1892
Re: Junk it or fix it [pistandbroke] by the_big_al
Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
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Replying to: pistandbroke (Mar 01, 2008 4:14 pm)

It sounds like the motor is toast. The cost to have a shop put in a motor will probably equal what the van is worth. You may get lucky and only have a burnt valve and may only need top end replacement, but reason you lost oil pressure also needs to be adressed, so a new motor is probably the best and safest route.
 
How many miles are on the vehicle and what do you use it for? If you use it regularly and for it's intended purpose- hauling people around, for work as a contractor (is it a cargo van?), towing and such it would be best to fix it and keep it depending on the reliability of the rest of the vehicle's parts. The cost of fixing it may indeed be less than a different vehilce and provide many thousand more miles of service. But if it has so many miles that only rigorous maintenance is keeping it on the road and is now equaling a car payment a month, then you might be better replacing it with something more reliable. Don't just fix it a keep it for sentimtal reasons ("...I've replaced a bunch of things over the years...") The vehicle is not a sick child and not worth pouring more money into it if it would better spent elsewhere. When it all comes down to it, the vehicle is just an appliance and when it has lived it's useful life, junk it and get something else.
#1716 of 1892
Mark Z. by ziemann1
Mar 02, 2008 (9:02 pm)
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Hi, I have a 1999 astro. The running lights and low beam headlights just stopped working suddenly. The high beam headlights work fine. This seemed to happen right after my wife had to call a wrecker for a jumpstart. There is no voltage going to the low beam headlights. I replaced the headlight switch with one from a junkyard. That didn't change anything. Any ideas? Thanks, MZ

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