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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

1972 messages,  Last post on Feb 23, 2013 at 8:21 AM

You are in the GMC Safari & Chevy Astro Forum.

What is this discussion about? GMC Safari, Chevrolet Astro, Van



Messages Page 125 of 198

#1236 of 1972 1995 Astro Problems by scott808

Mar 24, 2006 (8:06 am)

I own a 1995 Chevy Astro with about 148K miles, 4.3 V-6, "W" engine. Over the past several months, the engine has developed a pronounced misfire. Gas mileage has dropped considerably from 20 to 22MPG to just over 16MPG with no change in my driving habits or distances. It's at the point now where it's almost undriveable.
  
I've had it in to my mechanic who has replaced plugs, checked wires (judged okay), fuel filter, and replaced the oxygen sensor. When my mechanic pulled the plugs, although not abnormally worn, he noted that the 3 left bank plugs were "normal" in color while the 3 right bank plugs were very dark...he thought indicating a rich mixture on that side of the engine. I've seen the old parts and can confirm his observations.
  
Previously, in late 1992, the following items were replaced (mileage was about 112K miles): fuel pump & strainer, fuel filter, throttle position sensor, EGR valve, plugs, distributor cap, distributor rotor, distributor ignition control module, ignition coil, plug wires, idle air control valve, fuel injectors and spider, and the engine control PROM.
  
My mechanic now believes there may be a problem with the distributor itself and wants to replace it.
  
I think he's guessing...while I don't necessarily mind that, he's guessing with my checkbook which bothers me in light of the possibile, never ending, perhaps un-necessary replacement of what can be very expensive parts. The mechanic has had the vehicle in his shop for over 2 weeks and there's no end in sight at this point.
  
Is there anyone out there who might be able to give me an idea of what might be wrong here? What could cause the plugs on one side of the engine to look as tho the mixture might be to rich? The service engine light has not come on. My mechanic tells me that the vehicle "computer" has registered no problems.
  
Previous to this, for the most part, the engine has run well inspite of high mileage.
  
Hope someone has a few ideas besides finding a new mechanic!
  
Anything is appreciated.

#1237 of 1972 Prodigy Brake Controller Installation 2002 Safari by lind777

Mar 25, 2006 (4:02 pm)

Any one have a good path to connect the black battery wire of Prodigy brake controller to the battery? Is it drill a hole in the fire wall and snake one through or is the connection point under the dash?
 
Thanks.
 
Don

#1238 of 1972 Re: Dutch Doors Tailgate Won't Open [rbritland] by scottg34

Mar 25, 2006 (5:26 pm)

Replying to: rbritland (May 09, 2002 6:59 am)
I have a 94 Astro that had a similar problem. The dash switch or the rear key switch opened the upper hatch, but the dutch doors would not open. The problem was in the controller that is located in the spare tire compartment. There is a black plastic box about 4 inches square with a wiring harness attached to it. I unplugged the wire and removed the box. By using two screw drivers, I managed to open it and remove the circuit board inside. There are two relays on the pc board. I assume one is for the upper hatch and one for the right dutch door. I simply forced a small piece of very fine sandpaper between the contacts on both sides of both relays, and cleaned up the contacts. The doors now open fine. I'm not certain this will solve everyone's problem. It could be that either switch is faulty. If this were the case, the other switch would still work. If a wire to the door or controller is broken, the same problem would occur. I believe in most instances however, the contacts in the relays are burnt or dirty. If this is the problem, it's not necessary to have the doors open to fix the problem. Good Luck!

#1239 of 1972 Re: 1995 Astro Problems [scott808] by salmineo

Mar 26, 2006 (1:32 pm)

Replying to: scott808 (Mar 24, 2006 8:06 am)
FIRST THING TO DO IS THE SELF DIAGNOSIS TEST IT SOUNDS AS IF YOUR MELANIC IS GUESSING YOUR VAN IS ACTUALLY RUNNING ON HALF ITS MOTOR . USE A PAPER CLIP TO SELF DIAGNOSE ITS SIMPLE A CHILD COULD DO IT THE ONLY PROBLEM WAS LOCATING TEST CONNECTOR THAT IS BLACK AND UNDER DRIVER SIDE LEFT KNEE ACTUALL LETTERS TO INSERT CLIP OFF HAND i DONT TRUST MY MEMORY BUT AFTER YOU DO THIS CODES WILL BE FLASHED ON YOUR INSTRUMENT PANEL SAVE YOUR VAN iM IN SEARCH OF A A/C COMPRESSOR OR A BYPASS PULLEY 84 ASTRO GOOD LUCK p.s iVE CORRECTED MY SUPPOSEDLY $1800.00 TRANSMISSION PROBLEM WITH FLUID CHANGE AND 2 $9.00 SENSORS ITS RUNNING AS GOOD AS EVER

#1240 of 1972 Re: 1995 Astro Problems [salmineo] by scott808

Mar 26, 2006 (7:43 pm)

Replying to: salmineo (Mar 26, 2006 1:32 pm)
Thanks for the heads up. I have one of the plug-in test units and the code sequence list but have not had access to it for a while. I'll give it a whirl. Can't possibly be any worse than it is now. I haven't come across any A/C compressors or bypass pulleys but I'll keep my eyes open.

#1241 of 1972 Re: brake peddle switch light location- help [cob] by garyvol

Mar 27, 2006 (6:17 am)

Replying to: cob (Mar 21, 2006 5:37 pm)
Hi Cob
Thanks for pointing out the White wire from the brake pedal connector. I’ve completed the hookup, including power to the controller. Now I’ll have to attach the camper and synch. the controller braking.
-gary

#1242 of 1972 Re: Prodigy Brake Controller Installation 2002 Safari [lind777] by garyvol

Mar 27, 2006 (6:43 am)

Replying to: lind777 (Mar 25, 2006 4:02 pm)
Hi Don,
I’ve previously thanked Cob for the white wire brake pedal info.
I’ve got a ’98 Safari, so it should be the same. Sounds like your doing what I just completed. I’ve got the Voyager controller installed and just completed the installation.
1 The path for the battery hookup is thru the Speedometer cable. You’ll see a black cable running down from the dash into the firewall. I used a fairly stiff feeder aluminum wire, (I think it is wire that holds up suspended ceiling). It took me 3 or 4 times (almost ready to give up) but finally fed it thru the grommet type hole that the cable is going thru. Under the hood you’ll have to see where the cable is to locate the feeder wire. I taped black and white wires to pull thru and eventually get enough to attach to the battery.
2 The Napa friend sold me 2 battery cable replacement lugs. These plugs have screws on the end to attach wire connectors. I unscrewed the cables (you’ll lose the radio presets) and worked out the plug connectors from the cables and replaced them with the new connectors. This will allow a secure connection for the brake controller power wire.
I’ll stop here to see how you do
-gary

#1243 of 1972 Re: Prodigy Brake Controller Installation 2002 Safari [lind777] by garyvol

Mar 27, 2006 (9:10 am)

Replying to: lind777 (Mar 25, 2006 4:02 pm)
Hi Don,
I reread your message indicating if there was a connection point under the dash. My Napa friend never told me of any accessory connection, rather fish the wires through the Speedometer cable gromet firewall.
It would make the conection easier if there was such a connection under the dash for the controller. Maybe someone else will reply with an answer.
-gary

#1244 of 1972 Re: Question about engine removal. [marlin39] by masterasetec

Mar 27, 2006 (9:29 am)

Replying to: marlin39 (Nov 12, 2005 12:02 pm)
You can either remove the Engine out the front after alot of sheet metal removal or out the side pass door.
These vans are one the worst to R&R an engine.
 
If you need detailed instructions, you can goto alldata.com and sign up for there automotive repair and diagnostic info on line, the cost for 1 vehicle is only like $20.00, and I personally have used alldata for approx 10-15 years now and it is a great site.
good luck..
Master ASE Certified Technical Consultant/GM Technician

#1245 of 1972 Re: Prodigy Brake Controller Installation 2002 Safari [garyvol] by cob

Mar 27, 2006 (10:17 am)

Replying to: garyvol (Mar 27, 2006 9:10 am)
Mine also goes through the firewall to the fuse block, used hole for speedo cable. Also FYI if you haven't already, install an aux trans cooler in line with the factory one that is in the radiator. It is an easy install and cheap insurance for keeping the trans from over heating while towing.

Messages Page 125 of 198

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