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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

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What is this discussion about? GMC Safari, Chevrolet Astro, Van

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#1205 of 1891 chevy astro by robbyt Feb 13, 2006 (5:57 pm)
i have a 2001 astro with 70,000 i would like to put a sway bar on it and a bigger exuast and cat is there any advice on this matter and what should i look for to start having to replace in the near futer thank you for any advice i get Replies to this message: astroman (Apr 10, 2006 10:14 pm)
#1206 of 1891 Re: '02 Astro - Jerking Drivetrain [mib4uk] by anitloc Feb 14, 2006 (9:04 am)
Replying to: mib4uk (Feb 12, 2006 5:41 am) I have a 2000 AWD Astro that was doing the same thing at about 80,000 miles. I thought it was the rear end locking up. It was a chattering feeling including tire chirping in sharp parking lot turns. Turns out that it was the fluid in the transfer case.   Change the fluid in the transfer case.   Use only the GM fluid. The dealer where I got mine called it "Smurf Juice", because it is blue. The change is easy to do. Pull the drain plug on the back of the transfer case at the bottom edge, drain fluid, put plug back in. Remove fill plug above the drain plug, (make sure the van is level), then fill the transfer case until the fluid drips out of the hole. Reinstall plug. No more chattering and it will cost less than $20. Replies to this message: mib4uk (Feb 15, 2006 1:40 pm)
#1207 of 1891 Re: Door Handle relacement [gmeerschaert] by hansienna Feb 15, 2006 (8:55 am)
Replying to: gmeerschaert (Jan 27, 2006 5:30 am) Has any Astro or Safari owner had a door handle replaced lately?      My daughter's 1991 Astro RS has a broken driver's door handle. I have heard it costs about $100 for the handle and labor to replace the handle at a dealership. The handle itself costs about $48. Is this correct?      With 213,000 miles on the odometer, a person can expect a few minor repairs. The transmission performs flawlessly even with all these miles. Replies to this message: nashd (Feb 15, 2006 10:01 am) hansienna (Feb 15, 2006 11:36 am)
#1208 of 1891 Re: Door Handle relacement [hansienna] by nashd Feb 15, 2006 (10:01 am)
Replying to: hansienna (Feb 15, 2006 8:55 am) Dear hansienna- with current shop rates- that's really not that bad of a deal. The cheapest way is to get the part at a junk yard and install it yourself- I thinks its just 3 bolts on the side- is it broken or siezed? - Nashd Replies to this message: hansienna (Feb 15, 2006 11:36 am)
#1209 of 1891 Re: Door Handle relacement [nashd] by hansienna Feb 15, 2006 (11:36 am)
Replying to: nashd (Feb 15, 2006 10:01 am) THANKS....The bottom part of the handle has cracked and the outer frame of the handle has a crack. It will still open and close but is getting more difficult.      She loves the HUGE interior space of the Astro with the large 27 gallon fuel tank and decent gas mileage. The Astro is not as long as my 2002 T&C LX but has much greater interior space.      I would have considered an Astro/Safari if GM had done something to modernize them after they were introduced as 1985 models in late 1984.      Although the Explorer is an SUV, Ford has continually made improvements. The Explorer is a very nice, quiet, comfortable truck based vehicle. The Astro/Safari would still sell in large numbers had GM been as smart as Ford was with the Explorer.
#1210 of 1891 Re: '02 Astro - Jerking Drivetrain [anitloc] by mib4uk Feb 15, 2006 (1:40 pm)
Replying to: anitloc (Feb 14, 2006 9:04 am) antiloc, Thanks for your reply. Your symptoms of "chirp" and "chattering" sound familiar. Before I had the rear end rebuilt, I added fluid to the differential. GM told me to use Synthetic Axle Lubricant 75-W90. I did. Later when the rear end was rebuilt, if I remember correctly, the guy told me that any lubricant was sufficient, therefore leading me to believe that just "any" lubricant was used and that just "any" lubricant is NOT sufficient. I will investigate this issue. Thanks again for your help. mib4uk
#1211 of 1891 See If Anyone Can Solve This One! by stan7 Feb 18, 2006 (7:35 pm)
Local dealer can't. Astro with 150K. Hard to start, cold, takes a couple of pedal pumps. While hot or cold, car stutters like it running outta gas for a couple of seconds. Then it's fine. Little later stutters again. Especially going up a grade. Ignition coil, d cap, rotor, and fuel filter have all been changed. Note - the fuel filter was 99.9% clogged! Computer doesn't know, Chevy mechanics don't know! I had a new fuel pump installed 40K ago. Dumped some f injection cleaner a tankful ago. Any ideas before they take me to the cleaners trying this and trying that?? New c converter? New spark plug wires? Hmmm....
#1212 of 1891 Re: FLOATING GAS GAUGE NEEDLE? [shadydave] by bsmoodha Feb 19, 2006 (8:47 am)
Replying to: shadydave (Oct 19, 2005 12:50 pm) This might or might not get to technical but here we go. All my info is out of the Service Manual. The fuel gage system works on the variable resistance principle. The VCM ie: computer sends out voltage to the variable resistor in the tank ie: sending unit, the voltage goes through the "float" then to ground. First disconnect the 6 or 8 pin connector that is just forward of the fuel tank. It is the one that also powers the pump. Go to radio Shack and buy 3 resistors, 1 a 40 ohms another 100 ohms and finally a 200 or 250 ohms. Then on the "chassis half" of the previously disconnected connector put the 40 Ohms resistor in series with pin "B", it should be the purple and white wire, then to a good chassis ground. Then turn the key to the on position. The 40 ohmn res. simulates "Empty" then sub. the 100 ohmn res. for the 40, the reading should go up to about 1/2 full indication. Then sub. in the 250 ohmn res. that one will simulate full. If you can't find the exact ohmn res. just figure that 40 will give you empty and 250 will giuve you full and interperate what reading you do get with what resistors you were able to find. They make a special box that you can dial in any resistance you want insteard of buying individual resistors...If the reading are all good using the resistors but when you reconnect the connector the gauge goes wacky it is the sending unit ie: float assy. in the tank..if not it could be the gauge or the bigger bummer it could be the circuitry in the VCM ie: computer, front left under the hood.....there is a way to chech out the VCM unit.... Replies to this message: bsmoodha (Apr 01, 2006 3:03 pm)
#1213 of 1891 Re: Opinions Needed [mib4uk] by dannyg40 Feb 20, 2006 (1:08 pm)
Replying to: mib4uk (Feb 12, 2006 5:55 am) Hi guys, I been away for a while. I did buy the 1995 Astro I was looking at. I got it for $1800 and it is clean. I looked at a bunch of other ones that were in rough and abused shape, and they wanted like $3500 + for them. Im pretty happy with this one so far. I just been a little busy going through everything as I get time. I purchased new tires for $240, new front pads and I repacked the wheel bearings for $25, new left side Idler arm for $40, new stereo and speakers for $240, changed the oil and other minor things that have been neglected. The 1995 2 volume shop manuals I won on Ebay for $20 should be here by Friday to. Other than that she rides nice, looks good and Im pretty satisfied with it. My poor 2000 Ford Ranger been sitting in the garage getting lonely lately.........
#1214 of 1891 Steering response is jerky by fixitrod Feb 22, 2006 (9:46 pm)
After upgrading the shocks(front and rear) and lubricating the front end this 1995 Safari with 250K is displaying nonresponsive steering, i.e. not smooth , won't return to center without some active assist, Its turning but it is like the ratio is not 1:1. Fluid level in power steering resovoir is OK however I tried topping up and it improved for a while. Could be coincedental to the front end shocks and lube. I did notice that the grease I used was a different color than what was in the parts. Best way to describe this feeling is the steering wheel is "sticky" while turning. Any advice would be helpful. I've heard suggestions of Steering rack?

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