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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

1889 messages,  Last post on Nov 13, 2009 at 9:04 AM

You are in the GMC Safari & Chevy Astro Forum. Your Host is Karens

What is this discussion about? GMC Safari, Chevrolet Astro, Van




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#1166 of 1889
How to Remove Interior Door Panel? by lostmachanic
Jan 21, 2006 (11:17 am)
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How do you remove the interior door panels? I need to replace the drivers side mirror and the passenger side window switch?
 
Any suggestions on the best place to buy these parts for my 2003 Chevy Astro?
#1167 of 1889
Re: I don't know - electrical? [mbcabbie] by claires HOST
Jan 21, 2006 (6:54 pm)
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Replying to: mbcabbie (Jan 20, 2006 9:14 pm)

mbcabbie, you might also want to ask the folks in this Maintenance & Repair discussion:
 
Electronic Gremlins Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy
#1168 of 1889
Re: FLOATING GAS GAUGE NEEDLE? [shadydave] by paltalk
Jan 22, 2006 (3:47 pm)
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Replying to: shadydave (Nov 18, 2005 7:40 am)

I had to replace the fuel pump assembly module, which contains the electric pump and the fuel gauge sending unit. I did the work myself with help from a neighbor. The module cost over $400 US.
It was a coincidence the pump was going bad at the same time the fuel gauge became inaccurate. After I replaced it, I did a continuity check on the sending unit, and it measured the specified 40-240 Ohms, smooth as silk. So, to borrow a line from the film 2001: A Space Odyssey, "I'll be damned if I can find anything wrong with it."
Since then I thought the problem occurred again, but it was either my imagination or it corrected itself.
BTW, I think the only way to troubleshoot this problem is to drop the tank and do measurements at the connectors.
#1169 of 1889
Old 87 GMC Safari by rompinreggie
Jan 25, 2006 (11:55 am)
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My old work van runs terrible on hills. A long hill will come close to killing her. The van shutters, almost shimmies, sounds wierd.
It had a rebuilt engine about 65000 KM ago, and I know has something wrong with #1 cylinder, with the plug fouling up bad. I install a hotter plug, and that seems to cure the ailment, just for #1. I just installed new plugs, and it didn't help much, other than it idles better than before. New wires and cap last plug change before the most recent. We don't drive long distances where I live, so plugs may wear out sooner, than going down a freeway everyday. I know nothing about cars/trucks, as I am a carpenter. I love my old van, but this hill-thing is annoying, and I feel one day she may quit for good. Any ideas?
#1170 of 1889
Re: 1994 Safari idoling rough, dying out when shifted into gear... [ryanrsmith21] by billszcar
Jan 25, 2006 (2:46 pm)
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Replying to: ryanrsmith21 (Jan 14, 2006 7:10 pm)

I am having the same problem with my 94 safari awd. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, spark pluges and wires, cap and rotor, air cleaner, IAC valve (idel air control) and still having problems. It seems to run fine when it is cold. But as soon as it warms up it starts to try to kill and then it will rev up to keep it from stalling. Then it gets even worse! When I try to excelorate or the van is under load like (Going up hill) I have to feather the throttle to keep it from stalling! And believe me it stalls all the time! so if any one out their knows what could be the proublem, PLEAS LET ME KNOW!!!!! Very frusterated! Thanks From billszcarhotmail
#1171 of 1889
94 safari awd Driving me Mad! by billszcar
Jan 25, 2006 (2:54 pm)
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my 94 safari awd. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, spark pluges and wires, cap and rotor, air cleaner, IAC valve (idel air control) and still having problems. It seems to run fine when it is cold. But as soon as it warms up it starts to try to kill and then it will rev up to keep it from stalling. Then it gets even worse! When I try to excelorate or the van is under load like (Going up hill)it will chug! I have to feather the throttle to keep it from stalling! And believe me it stalls all the time! I ran the diognostics and the codes are 32(EGR), 35(IAC VALVE)and 85 and have know idia what that is. So if any one out their knows what could be the proublem, PLEAS LET ME KNOW!!!!! Very frusterated! Thanks From billszcarhotmail
#1172 of 1889
1996 Safari Heater Blowing Cold by nashd
Jan 25, 2006 (5:51 pm)
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From what I've read here I assume my problem is a bad thermostat- Is it inside a hose? can anyone please tell me where to find it on the engine so I can replace it? Thanks
#1173 of 1889
Door Handle relacement by gmeerschaert
Jan 27, 2006 (5:30 am)
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I need to replace the drivers side exterior door handle. It's been awhile (and a body version) since I've had to do this. I have a '98 Safari. Any ideas on how to best get access to the nuts inside the door. I looked and they are barely visable, much less accessable. Will removing the doow latch help any?
#1174 of 1889
another heater problem by momneedshelp
Jan 27, 2006 (6:23 am)
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hey thank you guys so much with the heater problems. now i have another heater related problem. i have a rear heater in my 90 Safari. it was disconected prior to me buying the van. now the hoss going to it are leaking in the front (by the blower motor under the hood). is there a quick fix to this or do i need to replace the inlets that they are connected to. i thought i blew a brake line from the amount of liquid on my driveway. but i looked at the brake fluid and it is fine.
 
also my van is hard to start for the first time in the day (morning or afternoon) and when it does finally start after i pump some gas into the lines it blows smoke BAD. any ideas would be greatly appreciated. or is this normal for an older Safari?
 
P.S. I LOVE this site thanks again for the help
#1175 of 1889
Re: 1996 Safari Heater Blowing Cold [nashd] by cob
Jan 27, 2006 (8:38 am)
Reply

Replying to: nashd (Jan 25, 2006 5:51 pm)

The thermostat is under the gooseneck that the upper radiator hose goes into on the front of the intake manifold. It is right in front when you open the hood. Only have to remove the air cleaner assembly and MAF sensor to gain access. Remove the hose and I believe there are only 2 bolts holding down the gooseneck. The thermostat has a rubber seal around it so there is no gasket to scrap off and replace under the gooseneck.

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