Last post on Oct 23, 2006 at 1:23 AM
You are in the Nissan Quest
What is this discussion about?
Nissan Quest, Mercury Villager, Van
#544 of 2519 Thank you jkrolak
Dec 12, 2000 (1:24 am)
I love my Quest. It is my third one. It just irks me that I have to take my wife's keys because Nissan cheaped out on installing a lock cylinder on the passanger side of the car. My 1997 Quest had a lock cylinder in both the passenger door and the rear sliding door. My 1999 has a lock cylinder in the passenger door only. That was OK because if you turned the key twice it opened all the doors. Now my 2001 only has a lock cylinder in the tailgate and the driver's door. What next? Are they going to rely on the transmitter and delete all the lock cylinder? I don't like it at all. But for now I love my 01 Quest!
#545 of 2519 fog lights for Quest
Dec 12, 2000 (7:40 am)
I have a 2000 Nissan Quest and want to add some aftermarket fog lights. I have a set chosen by Hella but an not sure if the alternator and electronics of the car can handle the drain produced by running the fog lights at night. What is the amount of power drawn from the factory fog lights that Nissan provides? I did not order these fog lights so I am hoping to chose a pair taht have similar draw so that I dnot affect the electrical components of the car. Will 55 watt lights run oin the Quest without difficulty? I nkow the car has a 125 amp alternator which seems more than adequate to me. Any response would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your help.
#546 of 2519 fog lights
Dec 12, 2000 (1:41 pm)
Current draw can be calculated by dividing watts by volts, i.e. 55watts / 14 volts = 4 amps; or 8 amps for both lamps. I installed the Nissan fog lamps on my 2000 SE, but I don't know the lamp wattage (I would guess 55 watts each is about right). The wiring harness for the Nissan kit connects directly to the battery and is switched by a relay and dash-mounted rocker switch. Mine work perfectly - I haven't noticed any strain on the electrical system. I recommend you follow Nissan's design, using a relay and taking power directly from the battery (make sure a fuse is included, and is inserted in the power lead close to the battery!). The Nissan kit is complete, of high quality, and easy to install (time consuming though - it took me most of a day). I hope this helps -
#547 of 2519 Liftgate struts
Dec 12, 2000 (1:52 pm)
In cold weather ("cold" here in Atlanta is about 40 degrees) I've noticed that the liftgate on my 2000 SE will not open all the way by itself, but requires a light push. Once open, it stays up fine. Has anyone else noticed this? Maybe mine has a weak strut? Thanks for any comments -
Dec 12, 2000 (5:19 pm)
The struts used for hatchbacks, liftgates, etc. are gas charged units. When closed, the gas is compressed in a small chamber. As you open them, the pressure offers an "assist" to help open the gate, and provides enough resistance to keep it in the open position.
As with all gases, those used in these struts are affected by temperature changes, so under cooler conditions, the gases contract, and as a result, don't exert as much pressure on the piston of the strut. So, the "assist" is a little less, but the resistance is still enough to hold the gate up.
When they fail, not only will they not help you open the gate, they will also not hold it up. Have you ever seen someone with an Escort hatchback with a stick in the back? They use that to hold up the hatch!!!
Dec 12, 2000 (6:47 pm)
Thanks, agt cooper - that makes sense. Only these struts just seem to be a little weaker than the ones in other vans I have owned ('99 Windstar, '96 Grand Caravan). In those vehicles the gates always opened fully with no assist, which makes me think I could have a defective strut.
#550 of 2519 struts and fog lights
Dec 12, 2000 (8:12 pm)
I run into the same problem with my 99 Quest SE, I am forever hitting my head when the liftgate doesn't go up all the way in the winter. It took me a few bumps to the head to remember to push it up the rest of the way, mine will only go about half way on its own, the rest of the way I have to push it.
Now onto the foglight issue. I recently had installed PIAA dual fog/driving lights onto my Quest, the driving lights are 55W but I will soon be putting in 130W bulbs. I have noticed no problems at all with it, other than the fact that they guy who put them on loosened one of the battery cables and that made the battery weak for cold starts, one trip to the Nissan dealer and a lecture from Chuck got it fixed. I plan on having another set of driving lights installed on the van next summer. Its dark a lot in the winter and the moose like to camp out in the road.
#551 of 2519 re: fog lights (waynerp)
Dec 12, 2000 (11:00 pm)
is there a factory pre-wired connector behind the dash (so you don't have to go through the firewall) - when you use the nissan kit?
where is the switch (the blank plug next to the cuise-off switch)?
#552 of 2519 fog lights - gasguzz
Dec 13, 2000 (3:33 pm)
The Nissan kit routes the lead from the rocker switch to the relay through the left wheel well (the plastic fender liner must be removed for access). It passes through an existing opening at the rear of the wheel well into the dash area behind the fuse box. The rocker switch replaces the blank plug next to the cruise-off switch. The kit includes a connector that taps into the headlight circuit. By the way, the Nissan foglight wiring harness is purchased separately - could probably be used with aftermarket lights.
#553 of 2519 Nissan fog Kit
Dec 13, 2000 (8:02 pm)
I always shoot for a clean install - it's more reliable.
"the Nissan foglight wiring harness is purchased separately"
Is that the rocker switch and the wiring to the headlight tap connector? How much?
On the fogs themselves, can you get just the lamps and the mounts? How much?
What is the operational logic of the fogs (since it's tapped into the headlights), is it active only when the headlights are on high (or low)?
Sorry for the many questions, but who knows more than the owner.