Last post on Oct 23, 2006 at 1:23 AM
You are in the Nissan Quest
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Nissan Quest, Mercury Villager, Van
#2400 of 2519 1995 Nissan Quest-stalling, dying problems
Jul 10, 2006 (10:46 am)
Hello! My van is currently in the shop having the "line cylanoid" replaced. Could this be the cause for my van stalling and dying when I slow to a crawl or come to a complete stop? The RPMs drop real low and it just dies. It doesn' t make any noises, etc. The mechanic did a diagnostics on the van and the only indicator on the entire thing was the "line cylanoid". Please help!
#2401 of 2519 Re: Steering noise. [lo_k]
Jul 10, 2006 (3:28 pm)
You know what? I believe I figured out the problem. I may have been jumping to conclusions to think the pump was going out. I tightened the PS belt a little and the squeeling stopped. I bought a new belt and replaced it, but I found something that may be a common problem with the PS squeeling symptom. When I looked at the tentioner pully for the PS and tried to turn it after I tightened the retaining nut, it wouldn't turn. So I took it off for a closer look. I took apart the pulley and noticed there is a two piece bearing in the middle of the pulley. BUT, one of the pieces was MISSING, so whenever I tightened the nut, it pinched the pulley and kept it from moving on the bearing. I figure it fell out and wasn't replaced during some routine maintenance.
I priced a pulley from Advance Auto they would have to special order for about $100. BUT that's $100 more than I wanted to spend so I cut a 7/16" socket in half, filed out the inside a bit and used that for the missing bearing.
Anyway, that's worth checking out if your powersteering is squeeling and it won't improve from tightening the belt. It may be your bearing.
#2402 of 2519 Re: Steering noise. [gsusinme]
Jul 12, 2006 (7:59 am)
while I'm not about to question the integrity of your solution to the bearing problem (although that's damn resourceful and something I wouldn't have thought of) I recently replaced my tensioner pulley as well upon finding out that the inner bearing was blown causing my belt to pop and my car to overheat... I ordered a new one from Mantilia Ford in West Haven, CT for $42 since everyone seemed to only have the idler pulleys in stock and it came the next day and have had much improved results....
#2403 of 2519 Replacement rims for 99 Quest
Jul 12, 2006 (8:05 am)
I am looking for an extra set or rims for my 99 Quest to mount snow tires. Anyone know of a good source? Familiar with the required specs? Thanks.
#2404 of 2519 Re: 1995 Nissan Quest-stalling, dying problems [lifesavin]
Jul 12, 2006 (2:55 pm)
I had the same problem with my '95 villager. It ended up being the screen for inside the air intake was just nasty with dust and derbris. Give that a look at before you do anything else.
#2405 of 2519 Re: front blower problems [stigmata]
Jul 15, 2006 (2:56 pm)
I am wondering if you you can tell me where the rear relay is? I can't find it.
I've isolated the problem to the rear relay. The front works good. The rear is dead.
#2406 of 2519 Re: front blower problems [tovawong]
Jul 16, 2006 (5:48 am)
The relay is on the heater control board. I believe on the board it is actually labeled as rl2. All I did to get it working is re-solider the relay and I cut open the relay and jammed a washer in the relay.
#2407 of 2519 Headlight Stopped Working
Jul 16, 2006 (12:04 pm)
After many attempts to fix my passenger side headlight, on my 96 Villager, that worked occasionally, new bulb, socket, relays, etc., I stumbled on Carl V's instructions at the Yahoo Auto's, Villagerquest site. I resoldered the DRL (Daylight Running Light Module) and now it works!
#2408 of 2519 Re: Steering noise. [lo_k]
Jul 19, 2006 (5:22 pm)
I found out a week after that "fix" that my solution was not entirely correct. While I was missing part of the bushing, the ball bearings inside the pulley had siezed because of lack of lube. So I opened it up, lubed it, got it moving again, put it back together and it seems to be doing okay (time lapse since repair: 5+ days). I priced a pulley at nearly $100... but that may be because I live in the DC metro area and everyting is more expensive here.
#2409 of 2519 Re: front blower problems [tovawong]
Jul 19, 2006 (5:38 pm)
This is actually not too complicated a fix. You should just have a soldering iron, some solder, a 1" wire, and maybe some flux.
If your van is like my '93 Nissan Quest, your rear relay will be accessable behind the radio console. There's one screw that holds the console in place. Once you find that and take it out, you should be able to pry that radio console off with a screwdriver or something.
Directly on the rear side of the controls for the front and rear air, etc, you will see a circuit board. (I'm trying to do this from memory, so if this isn't exactly correct and you can't follow, let me know and I'll give more elaborate directions as a follow-up).
I believe there were a few screws holding on the circuit board. For repairs, you'll need to remove the circuit board from all the stuff that is wired to it, etc. Once you've isolated the board, look for a little box. I think it was black, but it's going to have 4 legs soldered into the board. This is the relay.
Again, if yours is like mine was, you'll see if you look closely that one of the legs soldered to the board has a tiny crack along the base. This has happened because of too much current going through it (so I've read). Now you can do one of two things to fix it:
-first you can resolder the leg to the board with more solder OR
-second you can resolder the leg AND solder the little 1" wire from the resoldered leg to the other solder that leg goes to.
I used the first method and my rear air is working fine now. However, I recommend the second method (hindsight is 20/20) because adding the 1" wire will make the path for that current BIGGER which will in theory prevent the same fault from occuring again from too much current through that leg.
After the repair, put the board back in and TEST IT before you put it all back together... just in case. I can't tell you how many times I've put something back together without testing it first and taking it apart all over again because it didn't work.
I hope this helps,