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Vans & Minivans Nissan Quest Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems 
2519 messages, Last post on Oct 23, 2006 at 1:23 AM
You are in the Nissan Quest Forum. Your Host is Karens
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Hello, I am having a problem with my throttle body senser I know that is what it is because I had a test ran on it and the reason why my check engine light is on is because of something to do with the throttle body senser. The problem Im having is when driving it loses power. Secondly, when at a complete stop and i apply gas to it when going from 1st gear to 2nd it shifts hard almost like im getting hit from behind. Now, when you look under the hood the sensor that is hooked up to the throttle body just hangs there and im not sure where it goes its just dangling however when you life up the sensor you hear it idle higher. Is there anyone that could help please..thanks in advance. |
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The throttle senser is screwed to the back of the throttle by two screws, one in the top, and the other in the middle of the rear of the body. It is a little hard to see and put back. If you need a diagram, I can scan my manual, and e-mail it to you. Earl 
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Replying to: fdubois (Nov 18, 2005 8:04 pm) |
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| Our '97 Villager EATS brakes. We have to replace them yearly and every time it is $400. New pads, rotars, the whole deal. Any one else with this problem? | |
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Replying to: charles15 (Nov 15, 2005 3:22 pm) I checked with Nissan and they couldn't tell me anything about those plugs. I'm about to install a new radiator and solve both problems at once. |
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Replying to: heyking (Nov 21, 2005 7:38 pm) |
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Replying to: charles15 (Nov 15, 2005 5:54 pm) The coolant leak at the throttle body is at the cold/high idle valve portion of the throttle body. If you look on the forward side of the throttle body just below the intake boot hose clamp, you will see a small coolant line going into a brass housing bolted to the throttle body itself. This brass housing and the actuator sticking out of it is what gives you your cold/high idle and subsequent idle down when the engine is warmed up. As the engine/coolant warms up, this actuator extends and allows the throttle butterfly to "come down" off the cam plate connected to the brass actuator and the engine idles normally. When the engine cools down, the actuator retracts and the throttle butterfly rides back up higher onto the cam, opening the butterfly slightly, and causing your desired higher idle when cold. Additionally, there has been much discussion about the timing belt on these engines. You don't want it to break. They are indeed "interference" engines. Also, while you are in there for the timing belt change, go ahead and change your cam and crank seals. A small leak on any of these seals can go undetected for quite some time. The problem is when they do leak, the oil goes right onto your timing belt, causing reduced life expectancy. Not good. 
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Replying to: motonation (Nov 22, 2005 6:18 pm) Steve Cutchen's FAQ We're talking about the older Quests btw; not the new ones made in Canton. I don't know anything about their engines after 2003. Steve, Host |
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Thanks for the link, Steve. I had actually found that page about a year ago, but had forgotten about it.  Good stuff. My take on the interference engine issue is that both the VG & VQ series of engines are interference. Granted, that doesn't necessarily mean there WILL be engine damage when the timing belt breaks, just a good chance (!). Back in the 70's/80's, as engines became smaller, the OEM's moved towards timing belts, and away from timing chains - for a number of reasons. Over this 20-odd year use of belts, we are now seeing timing chains become more widespread once again. I believe the major reason for this is consumer driven: people simply don't want to fork out ~ $1k every 60k/90k miles for a new timing belt, and all of the other expensive "while you're in there" stuff. This anxiety (and lack of preventative maintenance in the first place) has led to many folks experiencing broken timing belts and even larger repair bills. This is even more true for those of us running interference engines. As I said a few posts above, I don't have much time around here on the Quest/Villager forum, but I am more familiar with the 300ZX VGDE/TT engine and it's idiosyncrasies. This engine is known for ugly aftermath when a timing belt breaks. Not true 100% of the time, but it usually bends valves when the belt breaks, or worse...depending on the RPM when the failure occurred. I had the timing belt changed on our '97 Quest at about 90k. It is now due for another one (187k). Technically "early" according to the manual on each count, but I've had the mis-fortune of a broken timing belt on an Acura Integra, and got off lucky - don't think I'll have good luck a 2nd time. It is now no later than the recommended interval for me when it comes to timing belts. Keep in mind that that the recommended intervals also have a "time" element to them - even if the OEM doesn't specify one. As an example...a 10 yr old Quest with 20k miles on it...I sure wouldn't wait until it had 105k on the clock before changing the timing belt. A timing belt is a rubber product, subject to environmental effects, etc, all which negatively impact its useful life. Oh, I've had a lot of the standard Q/V problems too...exhaust studs, throttle body coolant leak, funky door locks, and an HVAC control panel meltdown last winter. Still chuggin' along though!
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Replying to: motonation (Nov 22, 2005 6:18 pm) |
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