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Ford Aerostar

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#417 of 520 Re: Ford aerostar 93 [leendert] by aeroman1 Mar 26, 2006 (3:12 pm)
Replying to: leendert (Mar 22, 2006 1:13 pm) Sounds like you have a corroded, burnt wire or bad terminal connection on the wiring harness! Good luck finding it, what will pay you; if you decide to have a go yourself ,is to get a good wiring diagram.   Steve
#418 of 520 Slow leak in cooling system by aeroman1 Mar 26, 2006 (3:24 pm)
I have a 95 3L a/c Aerostar with 250,000 Kms on it. For a couple of years my van has been using coolant (albeit very slowly). It holds pressure in the radiator etc, but is definately using more than it should from simple blow through the radiator cap. Just recently it has been getting worse,I put in some Barrs stop leak to see if that would plug up a pinhole leak but it made no difference.I'm thinking now a core plug or a worn water pump seal.There is evidence of a leak on the left side of the rad (looking from the front) however it never does it when the car is idling !   Any ideas or similar problems with a solution?   Steve Replies to this message: aeroman1 (Apr 02, 2006 2:34 pm)
#419 of 520 Re: Slow leak in cooling system [aeroman1] by aeroman1 Apr 02, 2006 (2:34 pm)
Replying to: aeroman1 (Mar 26, 2006 3:24 pm) Found the problem. Under the hood on the L/H side there is a black plastic cooling connector block, which also has a divertor valve, (which looks like a mini butterfly valve if your conversant with parts of a carburetter) to regulate the coolant (heat) flow in the heater core/rad.There are 4 hoses connected to it & there is a bell shaped valve attached to it with a plastic pipe plugged into one end of this valve. I just bridged this block (effectively removing & bypassing this little refinement). No leaks now & the heater runs fine without it. The valve is probably there ( I'm only guessing this) to reduce flow in the heater core & prevent cavitation or un-necessary flow from gradually damaging the heater core & eventually leaking.   ATB Aeroman1
#420 of 520 Van lurches at speeds above 60 mph by taurus1234 Apr 04, 2006 (2:21 pm)
and the speedometer moves wildly.   I replaced the ABS/speed sensor in the differential. that helped for the first start engine stop engine cycle and then the problem returned after the next time I start the car and travel faster than 60 mph. Replies to this message: taurus1234 (Apr 13, 2006 9:50 am)
#421 of 520 Electrical causes for frequent stalling? by gbcat Apr 12, 2006 (9:38 am)
'91 Aero V6-4.0L, 140K mi - stalls both while idling and cruising; replaced all sensors(MAP, O2, throttle position switch, etc). Also replaced ignition control module, coil, fuel pump, spray cleaned injectors, and complete tune-up. No luck. As stalling is usually preceded by AM/FM cutting out for one or two seconds --- beginning to focus on electrical cause. Understand electrical issues are difficult and expensive to diagnose. Would appreciate any suggestions to help save this old family friend. Replies to this message: taurus1234 (Apr 13, 2006 9:53 am) littleh (May 25, 2006 8:49 pm) joeirish15 (May 30, 2006 3:33 am)
#422 of 520 Re: Van lurches at speeds above 60 mph [taurus1234] by taurus1234 Apr 13, 2006 (9:50 am)
Replying to: taurus1234 (Apr 04, 2006 2:21 pm) I found the problem, it was the speedometer module in the instrument cluster. I got one from a wrecking yard for 16 and the car works fine.   the mod must take the signal from the speed sensor and convert into MPH. It must then take that info and send it to the eec which uses it to shift the transmission and adjust inputs for the engine.
#423 of 520 Re: Electrical causes for frequent stalling? [gbcat] by taurus1234 Apr 13, 2006 (9:53 am)
Replying to: gbcat (Apr 12, 2006 9:38 am) If you haven't already I suggest you get a copy of a good detailed wiring diagram and then find out what the radio and the engine have in common. I ordered a manual on cd from someone on ebay 2weeks ago and it has yet to arrive in the mail, so I am reluctant to suggest ebay as a source. If I get the manual I will look and see if I can determine the connection between the radio and the engine.   If I find something out I will post.   good luck. Replies to this message: littleh (May 25, 2006 8:49 pm)
#425 of 520 Re: Engine runs hot when going uphill [markscarr] by whitbma Apr 25, 2006 (4:39 pm)
Replying to: markscarr (Apr 23, 2002 5:22 pm) Mark, Check the radiator fan clutch. It is supposed to "engage" when the air coming from the radiator is too hot. It engages and drives the fan at the same speed as the water pump. When it is not engaged, it just spins freely. When the engine is at idle and the a/c is running, the fan clutch should engage after a few minutes. When it does, the amount of air blowing through the radiator fan shroud should greatly increase. You can even hear more of a roar as it engages. When you shut off the engine when it is really hot, the fan should be hard to turn. A bad clutch will allow the fan to spin quite freely. The clutches tend to leak the fluid out on the radiator side. I think my clutch failed about 140,000 miles. The engine temp would increase when at a stoplight with the a/c going full blast. Not a hard job. By the way, is the fans shroud still intact? A partially clogged radiator could cause a similar problem.
#426 of 520 Re: no blower on first two settings [bangsong] by jimmj43 Apr 29, 2006 (12:36 pm)
Replying to: bangsong (Feb 09, 2006 8:33 am) I had this problem on my Pontiac and was able to trace the problem to burned/corroded contact points on a firewall-mounted relay. Those dropping resistors (that look like springs) get more blame than they deserve. 99 times out of 100, if the "springs" aren't physically broken, they're fine. The relay I mentioned was in the electrical line just BEFORE the resistors: Power source/battery>fusebox>switch(s)>RELAY>resistors>fan motor. I removed the relay, removed the cover, then used 400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper to clean/polish the obviously-charred contact points. Reassembled & good as new!

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